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Good thought, tested ok though at 7.75 Kohm @ 27* F (acceptable range chart on FI-113/FI-116 depending on what year manual you have)

Now, I've had this issue a long time. I'd have to say through the duration of my ownership of this engine (since its first chassis to the third). I'm just tired of it and out of ideas. Issue: Significant power loss once at op temp. Changes in conditions: I have significant power through temps...

I would like to point this big factor out before you dive ever deeper. Just because it's at 0V and it goes up, does it mean 51 will not be there. If i'm not mistaken, the ECU will accept a closed throttle position to be considered between 0-1V (I'm sure I will be readily corrected on this by JJ...

You need a piggy back or standalone bottom line. Keep boost very low in the mean time.

First, there is nothing safe about 20w-50 oil in a 7m-gte. Go back to stock then do some reading in the oil section. Two, you're asking an impossible question to answer. I'm going to assume you meant "what's the most PSI a stock 7m can take with a stock ct26 without upgrading anything". In that...

Option 3. Option one and two are ultimately more expensive, high risk, and much more work.

Remove rear interior on the side of the broken tail light. There are long bolts behind requiring deep 10mm (i think) to remove. IIRC there are 6, its been awhile.

step by step

I think you're confused. The 12V mod is to switch the pump over to a constant 12V source. Its not NEEDED but i highly recommend it for tuning purposes and, potentially, safety purposes. Yes you can remove the resistor pack and relay when the 12V mod is done properly.

You CANNOT tune it out. It looked the same because it switched at the same time. It can switch at any point in the RPM range. It is variable. It was consistent because you ran somewhat consistently. If you did a run starting at 4K vs. 2.5K the switch will occur at different points. This is why...

Maybe you've just never realized what you were looking for. Its a jump in the AFR's at one random interval. It's inevitable and unpredictable. You DO have it unless your system isn't switching from 9 to 12 volt. Here is an old example of mine. Don't mind the odd power curves, I had several leaks...

Ah, missed that.

^I know there are instructions on the site, search for them. I can't find them right now. I just want to make clear, the only reason to do the 12V mod is for tuning purposes, though at 15psi, you SHOULD be tuning if you aren't already. Running lean at 15 psi on a stock turbo is dangerous.

Sounds like mine. Its been doing it for years. So far, so good. Post some pics for reference if you really find the problem.

7m is a non-interference engine (thankfully). Odds are what you are hearing is valve tap. Post a quick vid to at least get the sound of it and most likely someone will confirm any possible knock or more commonly just valve tap. If there is no bearing left for one reason or another...youd know it...

stop getting ahead of yourself. Make sure your cams and dampener are lined up correctly for proper timing.

looks to me like your tach is jumping during the attempted start so your CPS is sending a signal

Knock on wood, so far, while my shroud is toast, the radiator is still intact, no impact. Shroudless of course.

Been through a Fluidyne already. They're nice quality, but grossly lack cooling capacity for the price.

I do not anymore, computer crashed about a month ago. Though now that you mention it, I do recall the stock springs not fitting on older versions, but I had no problem with the lower spring clip. The upper I already had replaced with a worm gear for other reasons. At this point, people need to...