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Look through the oil filler hole. :)

There are other oil passages that would work. IJ had a picture floating around of where the oil/water passages were located on the exhaust side. I'm going to dig around for it.

I found that too, browsing around, but the following quote from the linked thread posted earlier makes me hesitant to try it. Maybe I'll just bite, as it's only a couple dollars.

If all three were hooked up it was hacked that way. No MKIII came with three knock sensors. Use the outer two and you're golden. I'd pull the center one out as there's no use for it.

Or just find an OEM headlight squirter button and press that to run your codes. Or even better, if you have no A/C, disconnect that button from the A/C system and use that to run the codes as it will stay on so no holding the button down. (works well for setting timing, too;)) Could mount one in...

From one of the above linked threads: Ian, (or anybody else) since you mention taper, does that mean that our fitting is 1/8" BSPT? I'm not very well versed in threaded applications, but am very interested to pick up any extra info I can. It seems that most hydraulic shops have BSPP (parallel...

All of them were in pretty good shape overall. :(

The 3vz sucks anyway. I'd rather have an underpowered 22re. (and I do, for that matter)

A simple set of wires and a classy pushbutton switch cures that. I never got out of my car to check codes. Push the button, CEL blinks. :)

I forgot to mention earlier, I'd go with a Subaru. My girlfriend has a '99 Legacy SUS. Very easy to work on, pretty cheap to maintain, awesome in snow with good tires on it, decent mileage. If you need a little more pep for her step, get a Legacy GT and keep the boost down.

My aunt had a diesel Rabbit. Couldn't kill that damn thing. She had it for years, sold it, and has regretted that decision ever since.

Get her something slow and safe. It's her first car, dude.

I would rock the hell out of a GLH-T

In that case, re-verify your timing. I would venture to say it's the number one reason a motor won't start after a rebuild- being out of time. http://www.supramania.com/forums/content.php?181-How-To-basic-timing-instructions-CPS-alignment

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291410/catalog.aspx?F=4303&P=1

This is the definition of shaeff. I spent the same amount on my oil pan that I bought my car for. LOL.

Pretty cool, Ryan. What kind of tube bender you using? I'm planning to get one next summer to make a tube bed for my Pickup since my bed is about rotted away.

Glad to see you finally starting it. :)

The motor jumped out and ran away?