DM oil sender hose

wht95scort

New Member
May 24, 2010
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NJ
I went to install the DM oil sender hose on my 1JZ block and the hose only screws in about one turn. That doesn't seem enough to me. Has anyone else ran into this problem? I may run a NPT tap into the hole to make it screw in more but figured I'd ask here first. Thanks!
 

duntov1

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Sep 5, 2007
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wht95scort;1630975 said:
I went to install the DM oil sender hose on my 1JZ block and the hose only screws in about one turn. That doesn't seem enough to me. Has anyone else ran into this problem? I may run a NPT tap into the hole to make it screw in more but figured I'd ask here first. Thanks!

Mine was the same so I called Aaron and he said to crank it in. I was nervous, but did it. It works and doesn't leak. Only went in about a turn and a half. HTH
 

wht95scort

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May 24, 2010
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Thanks for the reply. I emailed Aaron but haven't heard back from him yet. I guess I will just tighten it up see what happens.
 

CyFi6

Aliens.
Oct 11, 2007
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www.google.com
Attempted to use one in my 7m block, and couldn't even get the threads to catch. Ended up using a brass 1/8NPT to 1/8 NPT and got it to all fit into each other, though the threads aren't all perfectly right, it doesn't leak.
 

Scott 88-1JZ

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Dec 9, 2007
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I didnt have problems threading mine into the block but on the sender side I screwed it in and it leaks when the car runs. I am thinking about pulling it and using some sort of sealer perhaps the toyota FIPG.
 

te72

Classifieds Moderator
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Mar 26, 2006
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Blue Loctite seals it up nicely. For what it's worth, that's a taper thread guys, it seals as you tighten it. Just don't pull it out once you get it in if you don't have to. ;)
 

wht95scort

New Member
May 24, 2010
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Pretty poor design if you ask me. This is a crucial line and if it were to leak or come out your engine will be toast. The fitting should be tapered like the factor gauge fitting. I'm going to see what I can do. I may just space out the A/C and run a different belt if need be.
 

shaeff

Kurt is FTMFW x2!!!!
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Mar 30, 2005
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From one of the above linked threads:

IJ.;189133 said:
Mik: You've just found the difference in 1/8 BSP and 1/8 NPT!

1 TPI and a different angle on the taper!
(Our blocks are 1/8 bsp)

Ian, (or anybody else) since you mention taper, does that mean that our fitting is 1/8" BSPT? I'm not very well versed in threaded applications, but am very interested to pick up any extra info I can. It seems that most hydraulic shops have BSPP (parallel = no taper, I assume) But I have come across BSPT a few times...
 

wht95scort

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May 24, 2010
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That looks like it would work. I just installed the line today. I just tightened it up like everyone said. Seemed to go in ok and tighten we will see once the car is running.
 

92TealSupra

Supramania's Parts Man
Sep 2, 2008
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I didn't have a problem with mine, but what I did have an issue with that the steel braided cltuch line. I had to crank on that on the master cylinder to get it to not leak, I was scared but it worked perfectly!
 

86_sports_1jz

slow 700hp build...
Aug 27, 2006
1,217
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so it only goes in a couple of turns and then you tighten it until it stops even though it feels like its gonna mess up the threads on the block? whats the alternative if you don't use the line from driftmotion?