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just reading through your thread, it sounds like you either have a major pcv problem, or excessive blowby, or a combination of the two. After a few thousand km, my charge pipes have minimal oil in them... verify that all pcv hoses are clear and open. also check that the hose connecting the...

carb cleaner and compressed air. for what its worth, that orifice is only 2-3mm in diameter, so if you think it is clogged because it is difficult to blow through, that may not be the case.

It sounds like we have a similar problem. I just installed a new set of valve seals and still have smoking on startup. Old valve seals looked perfect when removed, so i don't think the stem seals were the issue. I think my PCV system may be the culprit but not quite sure yet...

thats nothing. see my sig for real rust. if you repair it properly, it won't be back.

enjoy the ricer hop...

why not go with solid seamless tubing instead of braided? It'll be cheaper and likely easier to mount. You will need a bender and flare tool, but it will likely still be cheaper (and more durable) than running braided. Example: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G2538/

the starter is hell to get at any way you slice it...unless of course you remove the upper intake manifold. For a $15 dollar gasket, it is almost worth removing it. I also support the above post.

me too. My conventional and bypass filters hold nearly 1.5 quarts.

I can't see your pictures as I'm at work, but from your description, they are the fuel pressure up and EGR vacuum switching valves.

lol, do you think these engines were engineered by somebody in a back yard, with no understanding of heat transfer and fluid mechanics?

Unless the studs are torque to yield, they will not elongate unless you have tightened them excessively. Re-torque is essentially required for loss of stud/bolt preload due to the settling and compression of the gasket/fastener contact surfaces. Re-torque as you would when installing new studs.

Changed my valve stem seals on the car yesterday using the snap-on tool mentioned above. I don't think I've ever used a tool that worked so well. The only semi-difficult part of the job was removing the old stem seals, as they took some prying and jimmying with some bent-nose snap ring pliers...

the woofers turn the 8 speaker package into a 10 speaker package...

they were part of the 10 speaker package in 92 (beginning with cars produced 08/91) I don't think there are many out there. I've now seen 4, 3 of which are in this thread.

Finally got the sub box and amp installed. Hatch floor is now completely flat, and the amp is contained in the spare tire well. For the size of the woofers and box, the bass is quite surprising. From what I remember, the two 6.5" woofers hit nearly as hard as the two 10"s I had in there 5...

you didn't by any chance just make changes to your exhaust did you?

your gauge is poorly calibrated, that is your answer. perfect vacuum is 29.92 inhg. Your engine is not pulling near perfect vacuum on decel.

lol, high heat...are you worried about the nuts melting? they should have lock washers, and ideally be grooved opposite the flange surface, like OEM.

did you actually read the auction? by "brand new", i would assume these are not rebuilt. Since a CT-26 from toyota is in excess of $2k, see my above post for where these turbos are coming from. Hint, they're knock-offs.

chinese-made CT-26 copy. you get what you pay for.