dh61 installed. looks like it went a long way to stabilize my idle. Idle is still rough at anything over 12:1 AFRs, but that's likely the cheap shitty fouled plugs I've got in there.
phasing (for some reason) is
4.5
8.5
0.5
must have bunged up the wiring somehow.
just a follow up - I spoke with AEM and they indicated that both inj9 and inj10 have to be switched on for one of the channels to work. Also, turning the injectors on or off, you have to fully power down the AEM for those changes to actually occur. I'll be testing this theory shortly.
I was attempting to set up sequential injection on my car today with the aem box (7m) and found that injector 6 wasn't firing (inj 9 output from the aem). I re-pinned the connector to inj 10, and it worked...intermittently at first, and then not at all. Now I figured this may be a wiring...
an update on my current "progress"
Gave starting fluid a try last night with no luck. The car didn't come close to catching.
Aem unit is out of the car and will be going back to AEM for inspection. Re-installed the stock ECU and the car fired up instantly, so it doesn't seem as though...
tried again tonight, went back to the stock igniter and same end result, no start. No I haven't tried the starting fluid...i figured it was a crutch and wanted to avoid it at all costs. I guess I'll give it a try before reverting back to the stock ECU...as thats my next step. I'm getting fuel...
im pretty sure i've just got a major timing issue. im going to verify all of my wiring and then make the necessary adjustments. unfortunately i dont have a ton of free time so this might get drawn out over a couple weeks.
adam
yes...those are the wires i'm talking about. i still have all those wires, but they have been de-pinned from the plugs. i need to know how they are arranged in the plug housings as i removed the wires from the housings... a good picture of the wires entering the plugs is all i need.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=040
those colored wires terminate at the male plugs on the wiring harness - the 2 igniter plugs (6 pin and 4 pin) have 9 wires as indicated on the diagram. the actual wires on the igniter itself are different colors. these...
holy hell this is getting frustrating. no start again. I'm going to revert back to the 7m igniter to eliminate the dh61 from the equation. as I rewired the CPS back in the day I also need to verify that it is wired correctly. the car was on the verge of firing last night but it just wouldn't...
I was hoping somebody could post a picture or description of the igniter-side plug wiring (colors and plug positions). I'm having starting issues with my aem and dh61 igniter and want to revert back to stock to troubleshoot. I de-pinned the plugs on the stock igniter in a rush and didn't map...
attempted to start the car again tonight with no luck.
I did however, verify (i think) that all coils are firing despite what the timing light said. I used a screwdriver to hear each of the coils firing, though coil 2 seemed to be making a rather strange sound...While I did hear the injectors...
I pulled a couple plugs and there is definitely fuel entering the cylinders...
I'm going to pull the cps, adjust the air gaps, and see if i can get each of the coils to fire. I'll give your coil phasing a try, though there are a few things i don't really understand with that...How does...
i verified the correct installation of the igniter wires, so i think everything should be good to go there. I wired the outputs as per funkycheeze's write-up, not matching the coil numbers.
While i haven't got a chance to measure the air gaps on my installed cps, i measured them on a spare...
Before I begin, here is my setup:
Wired for sequential injection
GM 3 bar map
GM IAT
DH61 igniter wired up as per funkycheeze's post
The problem I'm having is that I cannot get the car to start. I'm getting fuel to all cylinders as I've pulled the plugs to confirm this. Last night i...
i think you are misunderstanding...grinding the shims isn't going to close the clearances. If the valves are sitting too far off the seats, the clearance is going to be opened up considerably. I'd try to have the machine shop check out the seating of the valves with a boroscope if you don't...
if it is the fuse I'm thinking of (too lazy to check tsrm), then it is screwed into the fuse box from beneath. Remove the fuse box from its mount, and remove the lower cover. you will see what I mean, and why the fuse wouldn't come out.
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