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This happened after I moved the wiring harness around a bit and hooked up my knock sensors.

How about elimintating the J tube all together?

What would you reccomend, MAFT pro or lex afm/ 550 injectors? (or whats cheaper, lol) I was already looking into getting a walbro 255. As for the head gasket, its a cometic metal headgasket and the mechanic torqued the ARP studs to what was reccomended by ARP. So I shouldnt be running more...

I know the consequences.. But 12lbs of boost.. What kind of danger am I in? And yes, I turned the boost back up because i connected my knock sensors, and got rid of the codes.. I wanted to see if it was going to solve the problem or not.. Or is it stupid to see if I got rid of it? I got a swap...

I turned up the boost again, to see if it would continue to cut out.. and it does. If I shift at 5500rpm or before, it wont cut out.. But if I rev it to 6000rpm then shift.. it will cut out. Any ideas? :1zhelp:

Alright. Today I hooked up my knock sensors, and cleared the codes. Drove the car, and it seemed to run alot better.. I get back, and check my codes again.. Now Im getting a code 11. Im going to check all my grounds tommorow and see what happens. It didnt come on until about 4000rpm in 2nd...

No, its just some red cover. The mechanic is a fuck tard and decided not to hook either of them up.. Are they both grounded to a bolt right under (almost on) the intake manifold? I have two sets of 2 brown wires, and a one set of 2white and black wires grounded there.

Would this be one of my knock sensor wires? Im going to try and get both them hooked up tommorow, as long as I can find the other wire.. if this is the right one.

Also.. Code 51. Im curious if im getting a code 51 because I have no A/c or cruise control because of the JDM engine swap. Is there any way to check if thats the problem and not the TPS? And if its not the TPS, is there a way to get rid of the code? Thanks

Well it ran fine, so Im praying that its fine.. Lol.

Thanks for all the help.. I replaced the electronics on my AFM, and I checked the resistance and seems to be about right. I will re-check. Hopefully, when I get a new hose I can search for broken wires and fix my problems. Hopefully I can get rid of this cutting out too. Any idea what a...

I think that my engine running hot is being caused by all the shit in my engine. It was a JDM engine, and the guy that did the swap didnt flush it properly. I flushed it 4 times, and drove it for about a week or so.. and the coolant looked like rust again and there was about an inch of...

Well, Im going to set the AFM screw back to stock. The boost is turned back down. Any advice on what I can do to go about this code 24? And I have to keep searching to see if I can find those damn knock sensor wires.

"stopped" up?

It was sort of a surging feeling I guess youd call it. The car has a MHG and ARP Studs.. So I hope to god the HG isnt blown.. And I dont think my temp gauge is working properly, and my low coolant light didnt go on (But was below the full level in the resevoir).

its a custom made 3" downpipe. It didnt make this noise before i did the AFM mod and turned up the boost.

I did that and turned it out all the way.. Still was cutting out at around 13psi, but wouldnt do it at about 9.. Then I heard a "jittery" kind of noise coming from the exhaust under acceleration... Get home, park it in the garage and I get to see steam coming out of my hood.. And its dripping...

I changed the AFM electronics, no luck with that. I went driving with about 13psi of boost, and if I shifted hard into second or third, it would cut out. If I went into second or third easy, it wouldnt cut out and then I would hit WOT and it doesnt cut out. So I guess it does only do it when...

It doesnt happen the moment I shift. Ive checked the codes, and I do not have a code 34 anymore (I had it when I had a shimmed waste gate) and Ive cleared them, drove it and i get 24 and 52. And how do you adjust the AFM screw anyways? Where is the screw located? thanks

I still havent got this problem solved. Okay, running stock boost the car runs great. Once you turn the boost up to 9psi or more, it cuts out under WOT at around 4000-4500rpm. It only cuts out for about a second, then without taking your foot off the gas it will resume and continue to boost...