Cuts Out Under Boost..

[johnathan1]

I agree with jdub...why don't you try fixing your problems, instead of covering them up with band-aid fixes like backing out the AFM screw????? You're just asking for trouble at 13psi.

I vote that you have boost leak that you haven't found. Put the AFM screw back to stock, you should never have to adjust that.

 

[Supraboy89]

I agree with jdub...why don't you try fixing your problems, instead of covering them up with band-aid fixes like backing out the AFM screw????? You're just asking for trouble at 13psi.

I vote that you have boost leak that you haven't found. Put the AFM screw back to stock, you should never have to adjust that.


i agree but if u want to up boost pressure with supporting mods thats the way to do it so u wont hit fuel cut. i have done this mod to mine and i drive it daily and i have gaind about 20 more hp going from 8 psi to 14 psi dynoed

 

[jdub]

i agree but if u want to up boost pressure with supporting mods thats the way to do it so u wont hit fuel cut. i have done this mod to mine and i drive it daily and i have gaind about 20 more hp going from 8 psi to 14 psi dynoed

Aren't you the guy that wants to run 2 ECU temp sensors switched so you can fool the ECU into staying in warm-up enrichment?

And how do you know what supporting mods he has? You don't, but you tell him to do back the AFM screw out and not tell him the effect it has on mixture.

Code 52 will retard timing...add more boost with this condition and you get a sluggish engine. Not to mention the AFM IAT code...the ECU uses that to control injector duration, by as much as 20% on a Karman vortex type like the 7M. Both of these *must* be fixed before this young man starts scorching up the pavement. Add additional unmetered air (via the AFM screw) and turn the boost up = a recipe for killing this motor...fast...if he has not already.

You have no clue how the TCCS works in this car...you've demonstrated this in other threads. The "mods" you suggest simply add to the number of hacked, jury rigged cars out there. This is a complex system on the 7M...change one thing and it affects others. It is not a car you remove parts, change parameters, or ignore problem areas on...it WILL turn around and bite you.

You need to STFU and learn how this engine works before you offer any more "advice".

 

[YouGotSpooled]

Well, Im going to set the AFM screw back to stock. The boost is turned back down.

Any advice on what I can do to go about this code 24? And I have to keep searching to see if I can find those damn knock sensor wires.

 

[YouGotSpooled]

I think that my engine running hot is being caused by all the shit in my engine. It was a JDM engine, and the guy that did the swap didnt flush it properly.

I flushed it 4 times, and drove it for about a week or so.. and the coolant looked like rust again and there was about an inch of sediment in the coolant resivoir. We flushed it again today, and I guess we keep doing it until its clean... :nono:

Also, found the problem from all the smoke coming off my engine, it was just a coolant hose that sprung a hole in it.. thank god. Is there anyone who makes an aftermarket hose kit for the coolant lines? I want something in blue or sivler to dress up my engine bay a bit.

And I guess I will keep trying your suggestions to get this code 24 figured out.

 

[jdub]

Keep in mind a code 24 can be caused by a bad AFM electronics module OR the wiring circuit. Look in the TRSM EFI section on how to test the AFM module. Trace the wires from the AFM...they run acroos the top of the motor behind the cam gear backing plate. This is a pretty hot area...the wire insulation gets brittle and can crack. Do not clean the AFM with carb or brake cleaner...that will trash the module!

The code 52 is also likely the wiring...Shaeff used to sell a re-wire kit that will fix it. PM him.

If you use any aftermarket hose, make sure it's rated for coolant. Good to hear that is all it was. You might want to get your rad checked for blockage.

If you want to flush the system, take the thermostat out, open the rad drain plug, and run water through with a hose while the car is running. Keep the water level close to the top of the rad. When it runs clear, cut the motor off and let the water drain. There is also a block drain plug on the pass side below the manifold.

Put the thermostat back in and fill with 50/50 coolant...do not use Dex-Cool. Either Toyota Red or standard Green coolant. Might as well replace the thermostat since you removed it to flush...get a new gasket for it too.

After all this, a pressure test on the coolant system might be a good idea. This is a bit of a trouble area for this car...you want to know if there are any additional leaks

 

[YouGotSpooled]

Thanks for all the help.. I replaced the electronics on my AFM, and I checked the resistance and seems to be about right. I will re-check. Hopefully, when I get a new hose I can search for broken wires and fix my problems. Hopefully I can get rid of this cutting out too.

Any idea what a broken CSI time switch would cause? Would it cause anything other than making it hard to start cold?

 

[jdub]

That would be about it for the CSI switch...it only works during start.

 

[starscream5000]

to backout the screw u have to drill out the aluminum plate blocking it. it is on the bottom of the afm then u will see the screw

Congratulations, you could have just given him great advice to blow up his motor . Hopefully the coolant leak was just the hose that he found...

 

[YouGotSpooled]

Well it ran fine, so Im praying that its fine.. Lol.

 

[YouGotSpooled]

Also.. Code 51. Im curious if im getting a code 51 because I have no A/c or cruise control because of the JDM engine swap. Is there any way to check if thats the problem and not the TPS? And if its not the TPS, is there a way to get rid of the code?

Thanks

 

[Supraboy89]

no i didnt want to run 2 sensors it was just a suggestion because i drag race and just need an extra boost at the time. thats why i asked. i have been building motors for 10 years so i know what i am talkin about. thats why i kep sayin WITH SUPPORTING MODS. i have a lot of custom built things i put on my car and it runs like a bad out of hell.


Aren't you the guy that wants to run 2 ECU temp sensors switched so you can fool the ECU into staying in warm-up enrichment?

And how do you know what supporting mods he has? You don't, but you tell him to do back the AFM screw out and not tell him the effect it has on mixture.

Code 52 will retard timing...add more boost with this condition and you get a sluggish engine. Not to mention the AFM IAT code...the ECU uses that to control injector duration, by as much as 20% on a Karman vortex type like the 7M. Both of these *must* be fixed before this young man starts scorching up the pavement. Add additional unmetered air (via the AFM screw) and turn the boost up = a recipe for killing this motor...fast...if he has not already.

You have no clue how the TCCS works in this car...you've demonstrated this in other threads. The "mods" you suggest simply add to the number of hacked, jury rigged cars out there. This is a complex system on the 7M...change one thing and it affects others. It is not a car you remove parts, change parameters, or ignore problem areas on...it WILL turn around and bite you.

You need to STFU and learn how this engine works before you offer any more "advice".

 

[YouGotSpooled]

Would this be one of my knock sensor wires?

Im going to try and get both them hooked up tommorow, as long as I can find the other wire.. if this is the right one.

 

[bigaaron]

Yes, that is a knock sensor wire. Is that a butt connector on it?

 

[YouGotSpooled]

No, its just some red cover. The mechanic is a fuck tard and decided not to hook either of them up.. Are they both grounded to a bolt right under (almost on) the intake manifold? I have two sets of 2 brown wires, and a one set of 2white and black wires grounded there.

 

[Supraboy89]

no. the wires u are talkin about are the intake grounds.

 

[bigaaron]

The knock sensors are on the engine block, next to the #2 and #5 cyllinder iirc. They are shielded wires up to a few inches from the knock sensor. It looks like your wires are broken, they should not be coming out frumunda the manifold like that with no connector attached.

 

[YouGotSpooled]

Alright. Today I hooked up my knock sensors, and cleared the codes. Drove the car, and it seemed to run alot better.. I get back, and check my codes again.. Now Im getting a code 11. Im going to check all my grounds tommorow and see what happens. It didnt come on until about 4000rpm in 2nd gear.. Im just hoping it isnt covering up any codes, or would they still show up?

 

[YouGotSpooled]

I turned up the boost again, to see if it would continue to cut out.. and it does. If I shift at 5500rpm or before, it wont cut out.. But if I rev it to 6000rpm then shift.. it will cut out. Any ideas? :1zhelp:

 

[NewWestSupras]

shift at 5499? Theres not much useful hp/tq addition from 5500 up anyways...at least with stock cams.