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poodles, good call. i forgot about how much heat could pull out of the crankcase. shouldnt be much more than 250* or so... but yeah. besides, the foam could break down where as the stainless steel wool pot/pan scrubbies wont. and i would be bending up the main tank out of aluminum flat stock...

so, is there any chance that i can buy just the heater hoses?

im thinking about making my own oil vapor catch can for my car and possibly a combination coolant/power steering tank for my friends car. im changing up the PCV orientation on my car. ill get pics when its all done but for now, im keeping the specifics under wraps because i just want it to show...

ok, i got them... even if you dont need them anymore. i took them of a spare engine mount and torque strut mount but i didnt grind anything since i didnt feel like it. but youll see the offending areas and where you would need to grind in order to get the upper mount to line up properly...

interesting to know. the span resistor you mention, would a radio shack carry that or is it more specialized than that and have to order it online or something... im half tempted to hook up a mechanical gage from my local hydraulic shop to compare it against my readings from the stock gage.

what fuel pressure are you running on them little 550's??? also, what are you tuning that toilet with? aside from that, good work. did you blow that motor up yet or what?

I know it can be done, JetJock commented on doing it but i dont think ive ever seen an explanation. id like to sort mine out so its not so far off. i KNOW im not running with 0psi of hot oil pressure with 20w50 at idle. i also KNOW im not running -5psi w/ the key on and engine off. so...

now that you mention it, that explains why my AFR's stay "lean" even though i KNOW im WOT and have gone positive manifold pressure, albeit under 5psi or so and between 2000-3000rpms. ever since i hooked up the wideband, im scared when i do an upper-gear roll from 2000rpms and the AFR's havent...

orly? part throttle boost at stoich?

then you are the perfect candidate to buy my exhaust! buy it now!

i need a way to increase the boost on my stock WG actuator... i have no intentions of running LESS than 14-16psi daily. i really wanna just weld one washer to the actuator arm and another washer to the diaphragm end and add a spring to increase the tension. then i can remove my washer stack so...

that looks pretty bad ass... how much lower did it get compared to stock, like 2"?

i have stock ride height, i almost never scrape during normal driving conditions. it hasnt ever dragged on speed bumps or larger humps or driveways. oh, i just saw you live in cali, youd get hassled so much with my exhaust. its about as loud as it gets... louder than an open DP because the noise...

i didnt have 550's and i made 283/303tq and my AFR's were in the 11's... eventually. it didnt hit fuel cut either. it started out lean in the bottom end but progressivly got richer. check it out; http://www.tamparacing.com/photopost/data/3439/Dyno_Baseline120207.jpg

no, actually, there is a 10mm difference between the diameter of the stock flapper and the stock hole. you could easily port the stock WG hole 5mm, 8mm if you are feeling daring. DSM's "upgrade" to 34mm flappers and run well over the power level a stock CT could ever dream of. i mean, air in...

i have maybe 5000 miles on them by now. i drove it around most of last year on that ignition... its the only ignition setup this car has ever had while ive owned it. i never drove it on stock coils ;) but i do need new plugs. i ordered some NGK 2330's from Advance Auto. the redneck girl said...

scosche makes automotive stereo repair harnesses for just such an occasion. they are usually $12 to $15 shipped. check online. i beleive the stock toyota replacement harness is PN TA02R. ive bought a few of them before. the proper harness that will allow constructing an adapter harness between...

how bout a 3" dual side-exit made to bolt up to a stock DP location... just add some hangers. ;)

im 98% sure its the headlight combo switch... could be your switch is just that boned. mine was on its way out so thats why i could get the dash lights to stay on if i CAREFULLY turned the headlights on.

jayson, brent already gave me that song and dance. im gonna ride this one out till i HAVE to get a new turbo... and at that point, ill be buying a pair of holsets. but untill then, im just gonna play with the stocker. Justin, you could be right... i really need to get an air gun for my...