Now.. if i only change the pistons.. how much power can the bottom end hold?
I am playing with the idea of a Wet direct port set up.
With the timing do you know of any timing retard boxes that will wiring in to our system?
With the stock head bolts and gasket is the nitrous going to...
Has anyone done a big setup? i am looking to build the motor for a 150+ shot and wanted to who if anyone else has done it?
Also does anyone know piston clearences? timing retard?
thanx
justin
went to go start the car to see if it was the exhaust leak and nothing...the start isn't doing anything. So i checked to see if it is the battery and it is fully charged, checked all my cables perfectly fine, found a loose ground...tightened it...still nothing, checked the remote cable to the...
no it is not auto.
And i double checked all of my torque specifications.
also i have all brand new internals. oem .20 over pistons, stock factory rods, new crank from advanced auto parts.
Also it only knocks or pings or taps after the motor warms up after it has been running for 2...
if it was valve spring chatter like supramacist said. than how can I verify this?
BTW I took the timing belt pully tensioner off and retorqued it down to 36 ft lbs and it still knocked.
well if that is making the no.1 cylinder of and the valve is hitting the piston wouldn't that make any of the other cylinders off?
but luckally it doesn't do it constintly so it probly isn't a droped valve.
Thanks a lot i am going to check to see if that is it tonight.
that acually might be it because i had to torque it down more because it was too loose and every time i fired it up and checked it and it was off so i had to tighten a little much to keep it tight.
But what is the knock or loud tap that i am hearing is that valve on piston. or is that...
well i know it isn't the exhaust because i can here it coming from the motor and to me it sounds like it is coming from the no.1 cylinder and even after i warm it up it does the same thing.
So do you guys think that it could be because i didn't break the motor in yet, I really don't want to...
also i have stock pistons(or OEM .020 over) But, i havn't seated the rings by doing the 30-50 full throttle break in. Will that make that noise if i havn't done that?
I also fixed the injector sensor and at first it ran good and didn't knock and then when i test drove it did it right after i...
i rebuilt the motor myself.
The only thing that i didn't do was the machining.
also i let the motor run for like 10 minutes and still heard the noise
But i did figure out what is wrong with it last night i broke a injector sensor and i guess it wasn't geting a good conection and the...
I just finished my 86.5 7m-ge and i finally got it to run right.
But when i get above 2000 it knocks but not like it knocked with rod knock it sounds exactly the same but it doesnt do it consistently and it is not quiet it is like as loud as the day before i parked it.
It does it when i...
well someone out here probley has a better way but this is who the hanes book says...
-make sure the motor is on at top dead center on the compression stroke
-then find on the distributer where the no. 1 spark is
-then while slidin the distributer into the head have the rotor end up...
thank you i really don't know anything about clutches. i also bought a flywheel should i just sell the pressure plate and disc and keep the flywheel because my flywheel is completely covered in rust and was pretty worn anyways.
What does pp type mean and stand for. Also i think that the input shaft will match up but i am worried about he throwout bearing assembly the peice that connects the bearing to the fork.
I bought a XTD clutch for a turbo 7m and it obviously matches up wiht the engine but will it doesn't match the throwout bearing in the w58 assembly so if i buy a turbo throwout bearing assembly will it work?
I have the exact problem but i am not sure if this is the reason yaet because i am rebuilding right now.
But I found this sensor unpluged and the point on the harness was ruined by the fan.
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