WHICH ENGINE SHOULD I GO WITH?
- Thread starter JohnRardin
- Start date
Idealsupra said:
So you are saying a used 7m in need of a rebuild will be totally reliable with no machine work, no hoses changed, no gaskets changed, etc...
Gimme a break.
Idealsupra said:
And don't talk to me like that, you really piss me off sometimes.
I have built enough engines and worked on enough cars to know wtf I am talking about.
bigaaron said:
1) no one said anything about a rebuild...you certainly didnt...you simply said...to make a 7m reliable it would take more money then a 1j swap. and you are simply wrong. and it was a stupid comment.
2) i think ill talk to you and anyone else however i like. see that little ignore button down there...if you dont like it feel free to press it. but my comment and point still remain valid...what you said was just plain dumb.
Dumber then your comment about how your engine was so reliable, except when it blew up, and then it was so reliable? Check your pm.
We were talking about the price of rebuilds and you took my comment out of context, read the whole damn thread before you try to flame someone.
We were talking about the price of rebuilds and you took my comment out of context, read the whole damn thread before you try to flame someone.
bigaaron said:
i did read the whole thread....and you said exactly what i quoted. and if YOU read....you could understand that i said it was MY FAULT not the engines...therefore YES the engine has been perfectly reliable...
go run any 1jz with half a quart of oil...do a few dyno pulls some donuts and some burnouts and then let me know how it is.
either way..... as said in PM we will agree to disagree and move on. no sense in dragging it on.
What kind of idiot runs his engine with a half a quart in it?
The engine is a sum of it's parts, not just a block and head. Your example of running low on oil is exactly what happens with a 7m when you only spend $400 rebuilding it. You have inadvertantly made my point for me. Lots of things on a 7m are prone to failure, and those are the parts that end up costing a lot of money to upgrade or replace on top of the price of the internal engine work.
The engine is a sum of it's parts, not just a block and head. Your example of running low on oil is exactly what happens with a 7m when you only spend $400 rebuilding it. You have inadvertantly made my point for me. Lots of things on a 7m are prone to failure, and those are the parts that end up costing a lot of money to upgrade or replace on top of the price of the internal engine work.
bigaaron said:
hahaha dude...youre making yourself look REAL dumb.... who said i spent 400 bucks rebuilding it? not me ...thats for sure....
the same things prone to failure on the 7m are prone to failure on any other engine.... the exception is the hg possibly. outside of that they are no different.
and if you must know i had a case of procrastination in fixing a leaky drain plug....and forgot about it and got goaded into going on the dyno and the other things....no biggie...it cost me a whopping 300 bucks and 3 days (2 of which i spent maybe an hour total on the car) to fix it and its been fine ever since.
so once again...nice try but your comment remains dumb.
once again ill say we will agree to disagree and just leave it at that.
Not checking your oil before dynoing is the stupidest thing I've heard since the 400whp 7m thread. I don't care how lazy you are.
wow best one i read yet. got to go with the 7m tho parts for me are hard to find as it is. what really matters is how its built. i mean who really cares its just numbers its the win that conts? thats what i learned about the supra. besides spelling lol. best bang for the buck is for me.
RacerXJ220 said:
i agree with that but performance vs. cost ..... 2jz<1jz<7m. Lets be real if he is asking other people which motor he should go with he need to set a goal and define a budget ...... Start pricing out parts and if you are not doing the work your self then add $65-$75 and hour for labor. I am sure you will find the 7m to fit your needs. People talk like 400rwhp is something that is weak and it is for a "track monster" but for a street car its more than enough for the average person. Power cost money ... how much do you have to spend?
All you guys switching to a 1JZ for great reliability are going to be in for an unpleasant surprise. From what I have seen, two comman flaws on the 1JZ'z are leaking stock fuel injectors and a crank pulley that breaks off. Both happened to my freind's 55k mile 1JZ engine. Yeah, its no big deal for the mechanically inclined, but for others it can be a headace.
From my experience, the 7M has two major flaws. The headgasket (of coarse). And the lack of proper maintanance from cheap owners. If I were just starting out with the MK3, the first thing I would do is rebuild the 7M at a reputable shop, because its just to risky to try modifying a potentially abused motor.
From my experience, the 7M has two major flaws. The headgasket (of coarse). And the lack of proper maintanance from cheap owners. If I were just starting out with the MK3, the first thing I would do is rebuild the 7M at a reputable shop, because its just to risky to try modifying a potentially abused motor.
Idealsupra said:
Changing headgasket and ARP bolts does not constitute to a "build"
If you take a headgasket replacement work to any mechanic, minimum charge for the 7m is $1000. Unless you can do it on your own.
The guys here are not talking about changing head gaskets and arp bolts, because for 400, you can do the same for a 1jz engine as well.
you should have read the posts from the beginning to see what led us to this conversation before blurting out like that.
JustAnotherVictim
Supramania Contributor
I think they both misunderstood each other.
It seems Ideal was reffering to the hp reliablity comment and Aaron was thinking about a full rebuild.
Depending on what has to be done a full 7m rebuild shouldn't cost as much as a 1j swap, it won't be cheap but if you're going over $2,000 you're probably upgrading, that is if you do the work yourself.
I still say make up your own mind and stop depending on people to spoon feed you information.
Changed for rakk.
It seems Ideal was reffering to the hp reliablity comment and Aaron was thinking about a full rebuild.
Depending on what has to be done a full 7m rebuild shouldn't cost as much as a 1j swap, it won't be cheap but if you're going over $2,000 you're probably upgrading, that is if you do the work yourself.
I still say make up your own mind and stop depending on people to spoon feed you information.
Changed for rakk.
JustAnotherVictim said:
DING, DING, DING, We have a winner! I would have said spoon fed though...