What should I do while the head is off to prevent more problems??
- Thread starter Figit090
- Start date
ok guess you wandered off....
If it has Head Studs what I wrote goes and it'll be easier if you remove the manifold totally.
If it's just normal headbolts you don't need to jack the trans up and you will be able to left the head off the dowell pins to the side to clear the exhaust studs and then up.
If it has Head Studs what I wrote goes and it'll be easier if you remove the manifold totally.
If it's just normal headbolts you don't need to jack the trans up and you will be able to left the head off the dowell pins to the side to clear the exhaust studs and then up.
thanks! i'll have to go do it to find out if it has bolts or studs, thanks a lot! sorry i did wander off... lol. i think i might get that done today. i apriciate your (IJ) and everyone's help with this!
no......it's heavier than you think it is and you don't know what your valve seals look like. Lift it straight up and it will take you and one more. It's awkward to say the least. If you can't remove the manifold get a third person. You can't really pick it up and sit it down to regrip, you have to go to an alternate location fig.
what was that about the valve seals? what do they have to do with taking it off??
My dad will probably be helping me lift it if his back is up to it...we'll see. if not i'll have to ask a friend or two to come over and help me...
i need to get the head studs off tomorrow...dad's busy tomorrow for part of the day but hopefully when he's done he can help. i might be able to rig up something to help hold the weight...just a speculation though i have no idea right now.
My dad will probably be helping me lift it if his back is up to it...we'll see. if not i'll have to ask a friend or two to come over and help me...
i need to get the head studs off tomorrow...dad's busy tomorrow for part of the day but hopefully when he's done he can help. i might be able to rig up something to help hold the weight...just a speculation though i have no idea right now.
your head studs should be a 10mm allen wrench. you don't need the long one the standard length is fine. As for the valve seals......, you just don't want to damage anything on accident is all. It's not really that the head is heavy, it is just awkward and makes you want to regrip or set it down to do so. My valves are tight and that may be due to some corrosion, LOL, hard to say. I do have some sort of metallic substance attached to the #6 valve.
my dad just bought some big allen sockets and i have pleanty of tools so that should be fine.
This week i'd take the head off...but my aunt is visiting and my dad had some surgery done on his had so we cant do it for about a week probably. sorry for the delays...if this thread is getting annoying. :nono: hopefully things go well from here on.
This week i'd take the head off...but my aunt is visiting and my dad had some surgery done on his had so we cant do it for about a week probably. sorry for the delays...if this thread is getting annoying. :nono: hopefully things go well from here on.
Low and behold....., six is shot to hell. She's gone down like well nm. BHG
Sorry to hear about your dad, I hope he is doing better than either one of our cars.
Sorry to hear about your dad, I hope he is doing better than either one of our cars.
supramacist said:
oh it's ok, he's fine, minor thing but he was told not to work with it and i'm sure it's a bit weak/painful.
yeah my 6th cylinder sparkplug was steamcleaned. I might get the head off tomorrow if my dad can help me. if not i will probably crack loose all the bolts so it will be an easier removal later.
I'm probably going to go with the Toyota HG, and maybe some upper fel-pro seals for the spots that need attention. I'm thinking about getting ARP bolts... not sure.:icon_conf
supramacist said:
Um. I just pulled the head off my supra for a BHG and I lifted it off by myself. It's really not that heavy. Take your camshafts off and you won't encounter a problem with your valves because they'll all be well out of the way. My head is in the machine shop right now- I'm having it reground and also redoing the valvetrain. This way, I know that I have a while before they're in need of it again. Um- P&P will do some for you, but there isn't that much HP gain to be had in NA motors... Up to you, but in reality it's not going to do that much for you in the way of power gains. Best of luck!
jazzsaxman1988 said:
thanks for the info, i'll get it off then! I havent gotten the timing cover off yet and i doubt i will remove the cams if i can help it. I dont know if i'm going to do a valve job, if it needs one then yes but i think it might have been done now that i think of it; i need to see the records.
for machining, i dont have to remove the cams do i? i'd rather not if i dont have to. unless it's an easy unbold/rebolt process and i wont get any stippage or have to replace anything. i take it there are just bushings in the clamps over the camshaft? by clamps i mean the things over the cams with two bolts holding them to the head.
Supramacist - i know everybody uses them...but if i dont need them...
I'll probably get them anyway. i think i can get them cheap and eaiser than through the stealership.
there isn't a real need to remove the cams unless you strip a headbolt or plan to do the valve job. If the motor missed at all before, it'd probably be a good idea to go on and take care of the valves now.Figit090 said:
nope. No bushings. All it is is a piece of metal machined to the correct diameter. It's really easy to take the cams off. Just follow the correct bolt pattern and you'll be fine.Figit090 said:
:nono:
thanks a lot, that should help. I'll probably be doing it unless the machine shop will do the stipped head bolts for a small price and can do so without removing the cams.
or i might have them do it? i dont know if they usually call for a labor charge there or if its just assumed into the overall cost.
i have at least 1 stripped exaust stud which was that way when i got the car (absolutely no resistance when i went at it with the wrench)
jazzsaxman1988 said:
thanks a lot, that should help. I'll probably be doing it unless the machine shop will do the stipped head bolts for a small price and can do so without removing the cams.
or i might have them do it? i dont know if they usually call for a labor charge there or if its just assumed into the overall cost.
i have at least 1 stripped exaust stud which was that way when i got the car (absolutely no resistance when i went at it with the wrench)
these stripped head bolts...., were they just missing threads on the bolts them selves???? Because if so, the chances of the head threads being out is virtually not possible, hence the arp studs and metal head gaskets. Valve job...., if you are lucky your compression will only be off enough to get the valves reworked with seals and top dead center, bolt on.
supramacist said:
head bolts not removed yet... i think i said exaust studs. It's a common issue as i understand it, relatively easy fix, just annoying. so to get my exaust to bolt up again i have to fix that.
You did say exhaust stud. It is quite common. Check out DriftMotion's vendor area. Aaron put together a kit to helicoil all exhaust studs.
You are going to want a die grinder and a 3 inch brass wire wheel to remove head gasket residue, when you do get it pulled. Some castrol superclean and the economy can of wd40. Probably a can of rust penetrant as well. Some scotchbrite.
supramacist said:
brass wire wheel? don't i want to avoid scuffing the head???? somehow i'm imagining this heavy grit thing going at my head (on the engine) and it doesnt sound positive.. couldn't i just use a razor or something?
As long as the wire wheel you use, is more soft than the steel of the block..., you have nothing to worry about. Your'e still going to go back over it with emery cloth.