What should I do while the head is off to prevent more problems??

Figit090

Fastest mk3 GT4 1/4 mile!
Jan 7, 2006
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edi said:
i was just about to use Prestone Super Fush to flush my coolant system till i read this. is using Prestone Super Flush a bad idea?

Well, if your car has no blown headgasket and not a huge amount of crud in the system i'd think it'd be fine. My problem was probably an already failing headgasket this stuff did one or more of the following;

- un-plugged a clogged BHG, or a crack in the head/block... (oh god, i never really thought of that until now...) and either could have been quickly remedied with that sealer crap you can run in your engine to fix leaks... i might never know. i hope my block/head are intack though!!:cry: :icon_conf
- the blow was always there and the engine simply reacts different to super flush than it does to coolant.
- the stuff ate through my headgasket...which probably wouldnt take much given the supra BHG problem, but i cant verify that and it is ONLY speculation that it even could damage the gasket or metals.
- i let mine sit overnight; whatever it did...it had pleanty of time to do it!

most likely in my case, i already had a blown headgasket; my car has 108k miles and it had spiked temps several times...never into the red but it wasnt normal. i had air in the coolant, excessive pressure....white smoke (overlooked though due to small amount and local climate)

if you've done a BHG repair or fixed the potential for one, i would think that using the flush is fine, just do what it says and only run it for the time it states on the bottle. for extra precaution flush the system with just water when you're done. i'd do that anyway and it might even say to do that but i think it would help if you're worried.:biglaugh:

just remember that something that cleans can also unearth leaks... something to think about.




jetjock said:
Cold start injector. Clean it.

thanks, will do!

i'm probably going to clean everything i can... and i have to epoxy or somehow glue the crack in my intake pipe :( it's around the end where it clamps and i dont want to buy a whole new one...

IJ. said:
Not putting it back on would prevent further problems ;)
lol..yeah...:naughty:
 

supramacist

Banned
Apr 8, 2006
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I feel you guys for short term storage. IN other words I am taking it apart and putting it back together..., the parts are in tommorrow. I"ll agree with that I was a bit out of bounds on my topic, but you guys should be used to this from me by now. I'm trying to make learning fun, and I remember pretty much all of the good tips on here. Chain lube would probably be good to short storage with. BUt I use wd40 for everything from my guitar to my DM's.
 

Figit090

Fastest mk3 GT4 1/4 mile!
Jan 7, 2006
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Ok everybody...ran into a new problem.

I started removing the exaust manifold today to get ready to pull the head and the rearmost bolt and stud were rusted together and the stud was stripped before it came into my hands...so they both came right out. I did some research and i'm either going to helicoil the whole exaust side or have it done at the machine shop when i get my BHG done to save me some $$ if it's cheaper that way. plus it'll be done right...i hope.

question;
I did some research and didn't find anything....
do i need to worry about the intake manifold bolts stripping like the exaust ones can? should i have them helicoiled? i took the plenum off and the intake tubes (the manifold i guess it's called) that run from the block to the intake plenum and y-pipe are still attached to the head. I've read blurps that the exaust side of the head could be weakened by heat so they strip out eaiser... is the intake side just as fragile or will they most likely be fine? I am more inclined to think that they'd also be a problem because it's all the same chunk of metal, but i dont know enough about heat making the head soft so i just asked.

question #2:
I am looking at the TSRM and it mentions a SST for removing the head bolts...it looks like an extension and possibly just a socket on the end, but i cant tell by the picture (online, and it doesnt go into enough detail for a non-mechanic like me) is this just a standard socket i can pull outta my tool set or do i have to go buy a special tool...

That's all for now, i'll post again if i can think of anything else.
 

Joel W.

Just A Jedi
Nov 7, 2005
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1) I also think it is from the heat on the exhaust side of the head.

2) For the head bolts, it is just a hex or allen socket available at any auto parts store.
 

Figit090

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Joel W. - thanks! that will help :) thankfully i have one that should fit already.

Supramacist - what's your point? u mean more than 2 in the post? yeah i number them more like subjects than questions i guess...oops. oh well. 2 overall issues... questions...problems...whatever.
 
Oct 11, 2005
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The intake manifold is torqued to 13 ft-lbs, so stripping is less of a threat, plus it runs cooler on that side so the corrosion is less aggressive. Helicoil the exhaust side for sure, not that you have a choice!

If it was my head I would lap the valves as well and check the cam journal clearance and lash.
 

Figit090

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i'll need to research what lash in the cam journal means but thanks!

by lapping the valves is that re-seating them? i was thinking of just having them do a valve job when i get the head surfaced.
 
Oct 11, 2005
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Yeah, valve job is same thing to first order. Cam journals/bearings tend to wear, so make sure they are in spec. The valve lash is the same as valve clearance. If you have a valve job then they would set the clearances for you.
 

Figit090

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Jan 7, 2006
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ok, i FINALLY have time to get everything done that i want to do WHEN i want to do it because school is out!! so now this should go faster...

I'm having issues getting the exaust manifold off, i've tried penetrating lube at the downpipe connection bolts but no luck... I also tried the lower brace but i'm not sure what its hanging up on...the manifold needs more play to come off the head and I dont know what i should remove on the exaust side to get it free.

can somebody point me in the right direction into getting the exaust off ? it's unbolted from the head but there isnt enough play to get it off the studs.
 

Figit090

Fastest mk3 GT4 1/4 mile!
Jan 7, 2006
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dont know. I have it unbolted from the head... should i go ahead and unbolt the head and slide it sideways (if possible) or do i have to get the header to move over to the left enough to clear the studs??
 

Figit090

Fastest mk3 GT4 1/4 mile!
Jan 7, 2006
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Tanya said:
weld it to the block :hsugh:

sorry, just thought I'd be a smartass for a sec

/uselessness

yeah um... lol.

but again...can anyone give me a tip on this step? i dont know if i have to loosen the exaust manifold enough to clear the studs on the head when i take the head off...or if i can just leave it, unbolt the head from the block and slide it to the right and THEN up...:1zhelp:
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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I come from a land down under
Might have to unbolt the trans mount and jack up the back of the motor to get it to clear the firewall.

I'd pull the manifold just to lighten it a bit but if you have a couple of strong mates to help it should clear.
 

Figit090

Fastest mk3 GT4 1/4 mile!
Jan 7, 2006
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hmm...sounds like a lot more than it looked like it needed...

I already removed the manifold and found a previously stripped stud while i was doing so... and now the manifold is holding itself up...

if i cant slide the head off to the side a bit and then lift it up and out of the engine bay then i have to get the manifold to move over...right now there is some mount holding it tight and im not sure if i can unbolt it.