Update: 7/12/09- White car stripped for paint
- Thread starter shaeff
- Start date
Thanks. 
I didn't get anything done today. Perhaps tomorrow I will.
I might just say screw it and go with all A1 suspension components in the rear, but I keep reading mixed reviews on them, so I'm not quite sure what to do yet...
I don't like the idea of open Heim Joints for a street car. It doesn't seem like the greatest of ideas, but this car won't really be driven a whole lot, really just weekends and a few days of the week otherwise. I also do a rigorous inspection of the entire car once a month. I'm anal about having it in top shape for the streets.
I didn't get anything done today. Perhaps tomorrow I will. I might just say screw it and go with all A1 suspension components in the rear, but I keep reading mixed reviews on them, so I'm not quite sure what to do yet...
I don't like the idea of open Heim Joints for a street car. It doesn't seem like the greatest of ideas, but this car won't really be driven a whole lot, really just weekends and a few days of the week otherwise. I also do a rigorous inspection of the entire car once a month. I'm anal about having it in top shape for the streets.
don't waste your $$ on the A1 stuff....with some thought and a few hot rod catalogs you can build the same pieces for a fraction of the cost.
Hey Doc, I know you plan on replacing all your stock bushings with the same nylons I have from Geoff. The only documented failure is in the #1 arm as we all know.
I remember reading something that IJ. posted about not wanting poly (I assume he means the RK polys) in place of these- Click to enlarge:
So I was wondering about your thoughts, as you use your car for what I plan to use mine for, generally speaking- Would you replace the above bushings with Nylon? And I know that drilling/tapping for zerk fittings is a must, but should I drill/tap the hub, or just keep track of how often I've greased it and disassemble it to do so?
I'm quite new at the suspension, if you can't tell, but I have to learn somehow!
Of course, anyone/everyone's opinion is welcome! Thanks in advance.
I remember reading something that IJ. posted about not wanting poly (I assume he means the RK polys) in place of these- Click to enlarge:
So I was wondering about your thoughts, as you use your car for what I plan to use mine for, generally speaking- Would you replace the above bushings with Nylon? And I know that drilling/tapping for zerk fittings is a must, but should I drill/tap the hub, or just keep track of how often I've greased it and disassemble it to do so?
I'm quite new at the suspension, if you can't tell, but I have to learn somehow!
Of course, anyone/everyone's opinion is welcome! Thanks in advance.
Chris, you know how I feel about delrin used for bushings like that. I don't think it's a good idea.
Maybe IJ will chime in about why he didn't want poly back there. The only reason I could think of is that it's too stiff and causes bind, but if poly would do that, then delrin would be even worse. Even if you grease them every mile, they still won't be able to account for the change in axis with suspension travel.
Tim
Maybe IJ will chime in about why he didn't want poly back there. The only reason I could think of is that it's too stiff and causes bind, but if poly would do that, then delrin would be even worse. Even if you grease them every mile, they still won't be able to account for the change in axis with suspension travel.
Tim
Man, this is looking amazing. It always makes me feel warm inside to see someone taking the time and the money to do something right on the A70. So many kids just beat the tar out of these cars, and blame the car when it starts falling apart.
I haven't done a single thing with my rear subframe yet. But I'm subscribing to this thread, since it'll be an invaluable bit of information should I hit any snags.
I haven't done a single thing with my rear subframe yet. But I'm subscribing to this thread, since it'll be an invaluable bit of information should I hit any snags.
Tim: Yeah, I'm not entirely sure what I'm doing with those yet. I have brand new OEM units for them if I decide not to go with the nylon. This car doesn't see a huge amount of street time anyway, mainly some weekend nights.
Doward: Thanks! Yesterday I ordered new bearings for the hubs. I figured that would allow me to press out the old ones, sandblast the entire hub, paint it, and re-assemble looking all new and shiny.
Here are my pics from today:
Brand new OEM upper A-arms/balljoints, (better pics than before)
Slightly polished vs normal:
I felt so bad pressing out the brand new bushings, but nylon will make a more predictable ride for sure:
New eccentric bolts, nuts, and washers:
Thats it for today. Not a whole lot, but it's still progress. Oh yeah, I didn't take pics, but I labeled all the Nylon bushings so I wouldn't get confused. Several of them look VERY similar, and only have minor differences.
Doward: Thanks! Yesterday I ordered new bearings for the hubs. I figured that would allow me to press out the old ones, sandblast the entire hub, paint it, and re-assemble looking all new and shiny.
Here are my pics from today:
Brand new OEM upper A-arms/balljoints, (better pics than before)
Slightly polished vs normal:
I felt so bad pressing out the brand new bushings, but nylon will make a more predictable ride for sure:
New eccentric bolts, nuts, and washers:
Thats it for today. Not a whole lot, but it's still progress. Oh yeah, I didn't take pics, but I labeled all the Nylon bushings so I wouldn't get confused. Several of them look VERY similar, and only have minor differences.
shaeff;986265 said:New eccentric bolts, nuts, and washers:
I bet those cost quite a bit coming from Toyota?
Excellent thread! Very impressive and makes me wanna rebuild mine. I wish I had the time to dedicate to my car like you are to yours. Great work.
Ron
Mk3runner;986464 said:
Yeah, drjonez pointed out that I could likely build what I need from hotrod catalog. I'm going to pick a few up, and see what I come up with.
SupraRon;986610 said:
Yeah, that invoice total was around $820ish, but it included two rear upper a-arms/ball joints, which are about $325/each.
(I also get a decent discount at my local dealer)Time is exactly my problem! If I had more time, this 'bucket would be finished by now. The only reason I've made decent progress this week is because I've had off from work!
Dedication is what it takes, and a certain amount of stupidity, perhaps, to keep saying to yourself... "While I'm in here, I might as well replace this, too."
That "might as well" adds up quickly, but it's well worth the piece of mind it'll give me when the car is done with new or upgraded parts everywhere!
If I remember right, those two areas you show in the part diagrams, or at least once of them is a spherical bearing from the factory and gives very little to start with (well, until they wear)
If it weren't for your suggestion, I wouldn't have thought twice about it. Thanks!
Edit: I got the other rear UCA polished today. They're certainly easier to clean when polished, which is why I did it in the first place.
I've got my old suspension components (camber arms, toe arms, and traction bars) sitting here next to my desk for measurements.
Thanks!Edit: I got the other rear UCA polished today. They're certainly easier to clean when polished, which is why I did it in the first place.
I've got my old suspension components (camber arms, toe arms, and traction bars) sitting here next to my desk for measurements.
Wow, brand new A-Arms. That looks like a grand right there. Did you get a discount?
Sorry I missed the thread last fall. I was quite busy. I have a couple of comments/questions.
Your picture of the Mickey Thompson says drag radial in your listing. I can't see the rest of the tire, but it looks like an Et Street to me. What is it? If that is an ET street, it will hook hard, and that suspension better be ready. Which it looks like you are doing.
I think the suspension improvements(new, not worn) will make a huge difference in your handling. I am sure you know why.
Are you going to do the body work some day? And what about a bigger turbo.
Nice oil cooler set up. Copycat.:biglaugh:
Sorry I missed the thread last fall. I was quite busy. I have a couple of comments/questions.
Your picture of the Mickey Thompson says drag radial in your listing. I can't see the rest of the tire, but it looks like an Et Street to me. What is it? If that is an ET street, it will hook hard, and that suspension better be ready. Which it looks like you are doing.
I think the suspension improvements(new, not worn) will make a huge difference in your handling. I am sure you know why.
Are you going to do the body work some day? And what about a bigger turbo.
Nice oil cooler set up. Copycat.:biglaugh:
Nick- I got the new rear A-arms for about $325/each. List price I believe was around $450 or so. I get a healthy discount at my local dealership because I'm in there so often.
Life gets in the way. I certainly know how that is! (This car would be done if it it didn't)
They are ET streets. I'll likely be selling them before I even get to use them, though, as I've got MKIV rear rotors and calipers on the way, and they likely won't fit under the 16" rims. I want this thing to hook hard. If something breaks, I'll upgrade it!
As for the suspension improvements, I can't wait to feel how this car handles. It's going to be fantastic.
The bodywork will be done before the car goes back on the road. I now refuse to drive it around looking like a rustbucket. I had my fun with it, and now it's time to make it look decent again. Make it turn some heads.
Thanks, I love the oil cooler setup. Hopefully nothing will leak when I finally start the car. Haha.
As for a larger turbo, it's got an MDCmotorsports 60-1 trim with a custom ball bearing cartridge in it. Should be good for 425rwhp or so. I'm going to push it to it's limits.
However, these are parts I have sitting around, please note, I do NOT have that turbo, as I'm going with a GT35r. The authentic Greddy exhaust manifold, authentic HKS 50mm wastegate, and 3.5" v-band downpipe are mine, and will be my next turbo setup. Power goal of 525rwhp, with lots of area under the curve.
Life gets in the way. I certainly know how that is! (This car would be done if it it didn't)
They are ET streets. I'll likely be selling them before I even get to use them, though, as I've got MKIV rear rotors and calipers on the way, and they likely won't fit under the 16" rims.
I want this thing to hook hard. If something breaks, I'll upgrade it!As for the suspension improvements, I can't wait to feel how this car handles.
It's going to be fantastic.The bodywork will be done before the car goes back on the road. I now refuse to drive it around looking like a rustbucket. I had my fun with it, and now it's time to make it look decent again. Make it turn some heads.
Thanks, I love the oil cooler setup. Hopefully nothing will leak when I finally start the car. Haha.
As for a larger turbo, it's got an MDCmotorsports 60-1 trim with a custom ball bearing cartridge in it. Should be good for 425rwhp or so. I'm going to push it to it's limits.
However, these are parts I have sitting around, please note, I do NOT have that turbo, as I'm going with a GT35r.
The authentic Greddy exhaust manifold, authentic HKS 50mm wastegate, and 3.5" v-band downpipe are mine, and will be my next turbo setup. Power goal of 525rwhp, with lots of area under the curve.
