Update: 7/12/09- White car stripped for paint

Slow66

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Apr 3, 2005
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drjonez;919656 said:
now that, boys and girls, is how you reinforce the subframe. excellent thought and execution guys!

Thanks Adam. Means a lot coming from you.

CTsupra;919679 said:
Only if I knew you guys were doing this. I live probably 5 minutes away from Bryan. I would've stopped by to say hello to the both of you.

Bryan, feel like reinforcing a rear subframe anytime soon? :naughty:

Sure! :)
 

shaeff

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CTsupra;919679 said:
Only if I knew you guys were doing this. I live probably 5 minutes away from Bryan. I would've stopped by to say hello to the both of you.

Bryan, feel like reinforcing a rear subframe anytime soon? :naughty:
damn! that would have been sweet. :( i met Genna, his wife, and PJ. (i guess PJ used to own a supra, and we all likely know who Genna is)

LilMissMkIII;919711 said:
Looks absolutely incredible :boobies: :boobies: :boobies: :boobies: :boobies: :boobies:
oooohh. some boobies for shaeff? i'll just assume they're for Bryan. he's certainly the man of the hour!
 

Slow66

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shaeff;919730 said:
oooohh. some boobies for shaeff? i'll just assume they're for Bryan. he's certainly the man of the hour!

Well, theres 6 sets of boobies there....lets just split 'em :)
 

NocturnalKitty

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May 22, 2005
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:eek2::yumyum::drool:

wow...amazing. can't wait to see the entire car when u finish the project.

if only i had my dream garage and my dad still in cali. he's a certified mig & tig welder along advanced certified mechanic. it would be heaven to hit the lotto and spend all day w/him building cars.
 

Wiisass

Supramania Contributor
Chris, Bryan,

Did you guys do anything with the suspension mounting points in terms of reinforcing them. It looked like there were new welds on one of the eccentric bolt mounting points, but I couldn't tell if there was anything else. I just noticed that the rear lower control arm (rear most lower arm) mounting point on the subframe was a little flimsy. And of course fighting with a stuck eccentric bolt it got a little worse. I was just curious if you did anything with those points or were planning on it.

And what subframe bushings are you going to use?

Tim
 

shaeff

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Wiisass;920350 said:
Chris, Bryan,

Did you guys do anything with the suspension mounting points in terms of reinforcing them. It looked like there were new welds on one of the eccentric bolt mounting points, but I couldn't tell if there was anything else.
yep, i had Bryan weld behind the little tabs that the eccentric bolts go between because mine were all bent out, thus making it nearly impossible to get a decent alignment. we bent them straight, and ran a bead behind them.

I just noticed that the rear lower control arm (rear most lower arm) mounting point on the subframe was a little flimsy. And of course fighting with a stuck eccentric bolt it got a little worse. I was just curious if you did anything with those points or were planning on it.



i didn't have any trouble with stuck eccentric bolts on the rear subframe of my car. (but the fronts are an entirely different story. :( those SUCKED!)

i planned on checking again for more cracks (spotted two others while we were inspecting it and welded them, too) i'll yank on things here and there to see if there are any more flimsy spots, and if so, i'll likely be giving Bryan some more business! ;)

And what subframe bushings are you going to use?

well, i had planned on using every piece of the nylon set i have, but after reading several posts by you and asterisx? (i think?) i started thinking it wasn't a good idea.

i guess now's the time to clear it up- is it just a bad idea to use nylon in the lower control arms, front and rear? or what? zerk fittings will be used. i just remember you saying how the control arms need to move more than just up and down, and with nylon bushings it will cause un-wanted stress, and make them more prone to failure. i'll hang on those words, as that's exactly what i'm trying to avoid. no failures!

if that's the case, i'll just use all nylon except the lower control arms. :) (and i'll have to grab a new set of poly's for the front lowers, as i already have nylon in there)

as for the 6 subframe bushings, i have a set of RK's poly bushings coming, and i have BIC's solid subframe spacers. :)
 

shaeff

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had no idea, actually. i don't have the RK's yet, they're still en route from New Zealand!
 

shaeff

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yeah, me too! but now i'm concerned about rigidity. :( i want this thing to flex only where it should. :/ oh well, i suppose i'll put the RK bushings in and sell the BIC spacers.
 

Wiisass

Supramania Contributor
shaeff;920675 said:
yep, i had Bryan weld behind the little tabs that the eccentric bolts go between because mine were all bent out, thus making it nearly impossible to get a decent alignment. we bent them straight, and ran a bead behind them.

Yeah, I saw those, I didn't know if there was anything else. I was thinking of gussetting the opening that the arm goes through to strengthen things and probably some other bracing. I need to pull that once I get the car inside to do the cage and figure out where I'm going to brace everything.

i didn't have any trouble with stuck eccentric bolts on the rear subframe of my car. (but the fronts are an entirely different story. :( those SUCKED!)

i planned on checking again for more cracks (spotted two others while we were inspecting it and welded them, too) i'll yank on things here and there to see if there are any more flimsy spots, and if so, i'll likely be giving Bryan some more business! ;)

well, i had planned on using every piece of the nylon set i have, but after reading several posts by you and asterisx? (i think?) i started thinking it wasn't a good idea.

i guess now's the time to clear it up- is it just a bad idea to use nylon in the lower control arms, front and rear? or what? zerk fittings will be used. i just remember you saying how the control arms need to move more than just up and down, and with nylon bushings it will cause un-wanted stress, and make them more prone to failure. i'll hang on those words, as that's exactly what i'm trying to avoid. no failures!

if that's the case, i'll just use all nylon except the lower control arms. :) (and i'll have to grab a new set of poly's for the front lowers, as i already have nylon in there)

as for the 6 subframe bushings, i have a set of RK's poly bushings coming, and i have BIC's solid subframe spacers. :)

I wouldn't use nylon in any of the suspension arms except the front uppers and possibly the rear uppers, but I'm not 100% sure that they rotate around the same axis.

The nylon just doesn't allow the articulation that the arm needs.

But for subframes, you can use it because they don't rotate. I am thinking about having some aluminum inserts made for my brother's car so the subframe will be solidly mounted. Not something I would recommend for a street car though.

But the RK's seem like a good idea for your car, should make things feel pretty good and not have too much additional NVH from them.

Tim
 

Wiisass

Supramania Contributor
drjonez;921966 said:
using nylon bushings in the #1 suspension arm can lead to failure. all other locations should be OK....

Why do you say that? Just because that's the only one that people have definitely reported as breaking due to nylon bushing use? Personally, I wouldn't use Nylon anywhere. Besides the front uppers, it will create stresses not accounted for in the arms, it may not lead to failure right away, but the arm will fatigue due to these stresses. It's definitley not something I would want on a street car or a track car, a show car that doesn't drive could get away with it though.

Just look at the way the arms rotate. But look at them all at the same time. The front upper is the only one that is constrained enough that it will not swing any other way. But the front lower will pivot differently depending on how the eccentrit bolts are set. In the rear, I'm not sure if the rear upper share a rotational axis or if they're a little off. If they're even a little off, I wouldn't use nylon in them. And the lowers, I wouldn't put nylon in them at all. With all the different angles of the arms, just look at how things move when the wheel is traveling up and down. The strut rod (traction rod, front of the two arms making up the rear lower control arm) is at an angle and will definitely cause the spindle to follow an arc. This arc that the spinlde follows will make the No.2 arm (rear of the rear lower control arms) move fore and aft depending on wheel position. Having a nylon bushing in this arm will be constraining it in that direction and will create bending stresses in the arms. The toe rod, which has been known to fail, will also do this.

These effects may not be seen as quickly in other arms because there is most likely still a soft, blown rubber bushing on the spindle side allowing for this movement. But the arm is still seeing stresses it wasn't meant to see and for this reason, I would recommend not using them.

If poly isn't stiff enough, go with spherical bearings. And if poly is too stiff, stay with stock replacement bushings. Those are all the options you need.

Tim
 

Wiisass

Supramania Contributor
I'm not trying to ruin Chris' thread. I was just surprised at your response. That's all, no offense meant, sorry if you took it the wrong way. I just was hoping you had a little more detailed thought on why? Because those thoughts could contribute to the discussion that was already started.

And isn't it libel? Not like there were any false statements about your or anything though.
 

shaeff

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if i'm not mistaken, i think that drjonez has been running a set of the very same nylon bushings for several years, if that matters. auto-x, drag race, street.