Mk3runner;1368908 said:
cars still not done... if i had my way every dime i got would go into the car.
Unleashing The Beast... (56K Beware!)
- Thread starter MA70witBoost
- Start date
cars still not done... if i had my way every dime i got would go into the car.
got fed up w/ the heat comming in from the sunroof. got a big peice of cardboard and cut out a lower cover for it, cut out some holes for adjustment and spray painted it in black. pics when i get the chance!
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just ordered a pair of Manual Boost Controllers. One to adjust the dashpots idle so the motor will quit stumbling/stalling when my BOV vents to the atmosphere, and the other to modify the boost and not have to mess w/ T's and Shims anymore (im at 15psi btw)
ok, was paranoid because my coolant reservoir kept lowering and setting off the radiator light. I've already topped off twice and was fearinga BHG due to the overheating incident two weeks ago. First i tried forcing compressed air into each cylinder individually to see if i see any bubbles comming out of the radiator... nothing. Then i block tested and at first thought OMG! BHG!!! but then realized that w/ all the vacuum i was causing on the block tester i was sucking out my toyota pink coolant out the radiator so apparently no BHG.
Got my manual boost controllers today... waiting for the motor to cool down to install the one on the wastegate... gonna try to install the other one tommorrow.
Got my manual boost controllers today... waiting for the motor to cool down to install the one on the wastegate... gonna try to install the other one tommorrow.
ehhh... im not liking the mbc. it'll spike like 15+ at times but the damn thing almost always settles at about 9-10psi. Really about to remove the damn thing and re-shim+T it. Discovered that my passenger side inner tie rod is shot. Shake the wheel and it has excessive play. I suspect the culprit is Lipp's IC Pipe kit. The lower pipe for the turbo works, but it hangs too low rubbing against the rack. It tore the dust boot into pieces. I was recommended at the shop that i cut it to raise it up but then i'd be loosing the bead on the pipe. Already had to fuss w/ blown off IC pipes due to running high boost and Its not all that fun to have to fix on the side of the road or try to keep the car out of boost as you carefuly try to drive it home running really rich and possibly fouling up spark plugs and the O2 sensors.
IJ.;1377145 said:Get an ebc
I know. But Id wrather save up for a AEM Stand alone and do a base tune at a lower boost level than get an ebc. Would lean towards the AEM TruBoost personaly. Took the liberty of putting some stainless steal scour pads inside my greddy catch can to act as a baffel. I already saw a very little bit of oil on the bottom of it but id imagine i should have more seeing as im already at about 1500 miles. Thinking the scour pads should help.
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ok... took off the manual boost controller and returned the 7M back to the way I had it befor (T+Shim=15psi). Also took the liberty of cutting the pcv pipe by the throttle body shorter and blocking it off w/ a vacuum cap. I managed to make a T so i can intercept the Intake to catch can line and use that to feed the throttle body. Just need to get a Ford PCV Valve from one of the techs at my job and I should be good to go on the PCV upgrade.
ok... the pcv valve didn't work... had to take it off. tried flipping it both ways but after boost the car would let off a big cloud of smoke. ended up removing it and the smoke went away (aside from the normal smoke). Also ordered some decals for the windows and fixed a few lil problems i was having. The shift nob had come off the sogi modded shifter so i fixed that. Also had a few things that were pealing off so yeah. had to crazy glue those. oh well.
~sighs~ Well the car is ticking me off... Nothing big but the little things that are left on the car are bugging me. Im really starting to think about looking for another form of transportation so I can get back to trying to properly fix the car. It seems that the clunk I keep hearing going from neutral to 1st and getting off the clutch is getting worse (or louder anyways). I suspect that the clutch packs in the OEM diff are giving out due to wear and have caused a slight amount of play. Have a spare diff that Id like to inspect to see its condition. Hopefuly its not bad. Might take it appart and rebuild the diff to try to eliminate that little problem. Also have to hunt down and see wtf all these little squeaks are comming from when i go over little bumps on the road. Still have no a/c so thats a bit of a drag. It gets annoying driving around in the hot florida weather and having sweat drip down your back (or pretty much anyplace it can trickle down). The lack of shoes for the rear brakes is also pissing me off. I dont like leaving my car in gear when i park it. Would much wrather leave the hand brake up and thats it. Only way i seem to be able to pull that off is by parking in reverse on a hill and even then sometimes the car will start to roll. i have diff leaks, i have tranny leaks.. I have leaky valve stem seals that cause me to burn a qt. of motor oil every week. Seriously, Its getting irritating. :: rant3 ::
Been lacking pictures... Each decal (minus the passenger window) were about $6 each from www.madcowsdesign.com.
^ both 1/4 windows
^driver side window
^front window (obviously)
^passenger side window
^ both 1/4 windows
^driver side window
^front window (obviously)
^passenger side window
TurboDreamz;1385656 said:i want the snail one !!!!
Heh, figures you would Ray. Not the only one... got a few co-workers that are loving the snail even befor noticing the turbine in the center of the shell. :biglaugh:
fixed the tag lights, and the running light portion of the passenger side turn signal assembly. gotta get another connector for the driver side fender sidemarker. the connector itself is showing excessive resistance so the bulb is inop. Almost got all the exterior bulbs working.
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well the blower motor decided to finally start acting up. used to turn on when turned on but now nothing. Gotta see when i get around to kicking the damn thing to see if it turns on again. If not I have to check for power.
Have some low end knocking going on... Im thinking the motor is low on oil (damn valve seals) so im going to leave the car alone for today (since im broke) and gonna buy 3qts for it tommorrow morning on my way to work.
Have some low end knocking going on... Im thinking the motor is low on oil (damn valve seals) so im going to leave the car alone for today (since im broke) and gonna buy 3qts for it tommorrow morning on my way to work.
MA70witBoost;1394241 said:
:cry: Ok, so it seems i now have rod knock. from 1500-2500rpm you hear the knocking. At times while normaly driving the car I dont really notice but when lightly getting on the throttle you hear it. Also @ idle when just revving the motor you hear it. Thinking about towing it to work tommorrow or grandma-ing the car to work (shifting at 1500) cause the senior heavy line tech wants to listen to see how bad it is. I have a set of Clevite Bearings here at home (hopefuly the crank takes standard sized bearings). Also have a set of valve stem seals and valve cover gaskets that I had at work. Was thinking about taking on the valve stem seal project this weekend prior to noticing the knocking. Figured id flush out my cooling system while i was at it because it still has tap water in it from when the car overheated due to the Flex-A-Lite fan controller but I dont have the money for more Toyota Pink 50/50. :3d_frown: Gonna try to fix the 7M befor destroying whats left. As i said somewhere else on this thread, I blow a third 7M, im going 2JZ.
Phosphate HOAT just like Toyota Red
http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/antifreeze-radiator-products/antifreeze/105
http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/antifreeze-radiator-products/antifreeze/105