The Small Questions Thread

MarkIII4Me

Project OVERKILL!!!
Apr 10, 2005
1,249
2
38
Charleston, SC
^
....radiator cap stuck shut, a clog somewhere in the cooling system, etc. Unfortunately, bhg is the most common culprit in 7M's. The smoke you see when you removed the oil cap could just be condensation steaming off tho.
 

Janch

New Member
Jul 23, 2012
271
0
0
Riga
Thing is i just rebuild my 7M. With block milled, cometic HG, arp etc. I tried with 0.9 and 1.1bar brand new radiator caps and 1.1bar has temp gauge in it. Pressure reaches its maximums point when coolant temp is 60C but pressure keeps rising all the time untill that 60C point. I was in warm garage and white smoke came out of exhaust as well. Engine hasnt seen load yet, just idle. Head has no cracks but block wasnt checked just visually couldnt see any damage.
 

sheedy126

Boost Addict
Apr 30, 2012
716
1
0
kennewick
Was the block and back timing cover prepped for the mhg? That could be your problem if you just pulled the head and left the block in the car

Sent from my LG-LS980 using Tapatalk
 

mirage83

Member
Mar 21, 2008
457
0
16
Georgia
Something is definitely not well with that engine, as white smoke out of the exhaust is coolant burning off in one or more cylinders. Did you do the prep work on the head and block or have a machine shop handle it? Sounds like either your block has a crack somewhere or something got missed when the milling was done and it's not allowing the hg to seal properly.
 

rhs

New Member
Sep 21, 2014
147
0
0
Dallas
While we're somewhat on the white smoke topic. My 1JZ puffs white smoke on most cold startups for a second or two. Is this normal? It's always done it.

No warning lights and fluid levels are fine.
 
Last edited:

Boosted MK3

New Member
Jul 6, 2013
48
0
0
Forest Hill, MD
rhs;2065748 said:
While we're somewhat on the white smoke topic. My 1JZ puffs white smoke on most cold startups for a second or two. Is this normal? It's always done it.

No warning lights and fluid levels are fine.

Most likely would be the valve stem seals. Very cheap and easy to replace if the head is off, Would be a PITA with the head on the car.
 

rhs

New Member
Sep 21, 2014
147
0
0
Dallas
Boosted MK3;2065752 said:
Most likely would be the valve stem seals. Very cheap and easy to replace if the head is off, Would be a PITA with the head on the car.

Is it something that needs immediate attention? Or can I put it on the back burner? I only drive the car about 20 miles a week at most.
 

Boosted MK3

New Member
Jul 6, 2013
48
0
0
Forest Hill, MD
rhs;2065753 said:
Is it something that needs immediate attention? Or can I put it on the back burner? I only drive the car about 20 miles a week at most.
Shouldn't be an issue, just watch the oil level as you are burning a little bit during each cold start. My 7m had blown valve stem seals for about 75k miles (previous owner mostly, I put about 15k on her before I rebuilt the engine.
 

rhs

New Member
Sep 21, 2014
147
0
0
Dallas
Is anyone familiar with diff oil seals for the half-shafts? The only ones Autozone had look like a metal ring with a rubber insert for a 1989 diff. But for a 1987 diff it looked completely rubber on the outside. I have a 1989 3.73 LSD.

Are the two seal types interchangeable? Or is there a difference in years? I notice driftmotion's rebuild kit comes with one metal ringed seal and two full rubber seals.

I'm wondering if I accidentally got two pinion seals rather than output seals.
 

drogon

New Member
Oct 29, 2013
249
0
0
Dallas Texas
I did a rebuild 7mge-t kept na compression. Got a ct26 60 trim. Wondering if I should use the new 11psi actuator or use the stock 6psi one. Everything else is stock except the coils.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Supra28

Supramanian
Aug 17, 2006
1,921
0
36
Columbus, OH/Kansas
I plan to replace the valve stem seals on a 7M head I have and possibly get resurfaced. I have a couple questions;

1. How do I go about determining whether or not it needs resurfacing? A straight edge and a feeler gauge?

2. When measuring the height of the head, starting from the bottom do I measure to the point where the valve cover sits?

I'm a newb in this department. Thanks.
 

mirage83

Member
Mar 21, 2008
457
0
16
Georgia
Quick question on A340E series transmissions. Are there any differences of significance between a USDM and JDM auto transmission for the 7M-GTE?
 

suprarx7nut

YotaMD.com author
Nov 10, 2006
3,811
1
38
Arizona
www.supramania.com
Supra28;2066651 said:
I plan to replace the valve stem seals on a 7M head I have and possibly get resurfaced. I have a couple questions;

1. How do I go about determining whether or not it needs resurfacing? A straight edge and a feeler gauge?

2. When measuring the height of the head, starting from the bottom do I measure to the point where the valve cover sits?

I'm a newb in this department. Thanks.

1. The head should be resurfaced almost always. Unless you know its history and you know it was resurfaced recently (a few thousand miles or a few months of usage) you should plan on a resurface. The TSRM calls out flatness specs, but says to replace the head once it's at that point. The only reason not to resurface is if you're afraid the head is already shaved too much. I can't see any spec called out in the TSRM.

2. Yes, generally the measurement is from the head gasket surface to the valve cover gasket surface.
 

suprarx7nut

YotaMD.com author
Nov 10, 2006
3,811
1
38
Arizona
www.supramania.com
drogon;2066502 said:
I did a rebuild 7mge-t kept na compression. Got a ct26 60 trim. Wondering if I should use the new 11psi actuator or use the stock 6psi one. Everything else is stock except the coils.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

By actuator do you mean the wastegate? If so, I always use the weakest spring at my disposal and control the boost with a controller. If that's what you're referring to, then use stock.

IMO, if you're using a controller (mechanical or electronic) you should not be using a stiffer spring. The light stock spring is sort of like a fail safe. It also reacts more quickly and can be more "tunable" with the electronic controllers.
 

drogon

New Member
Oct 29, 2013
249
0
0
Dallas Texas
suprarx7nut;2067133 said:
By actuator do you mean the wastegate? If so, I always use the weakest spring at my disposal and control the boost with a controller. If that's what you're referring to, then use stock.

IMO, if you're using a controller (mechanical or electronic) you should not be using a stiffer spring. The light stock spring is sort of like a fail safe. It also reacts more quickly and can be more "tunable" with the electronic controllers.

That's what I meant. I don't have a controller so I left the 6lb one on but it creeped so I swapped it out for 11lb, got up to 6 psi in 5th and was around 10.7-10.5 with my lc2 I was kinda surprised honestly


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

drogon

New Member
Oct 29, 2013
249
0
0
Dallas Texas
suprarx7nut;2067133 said:
By actuator do you mean the wastegate? If so, I always use the weakest spring at my disposal and control the boost with a controller. If that's what you're referring to, then use stock.

IMO, if you're using a controller (mechanical or electronic) you should not be using a stiffer spring. The light stock spring is sort of like a fail safe. It also reacts more quickly and can be more "tunable" with the electronic controllers.

That's what I meant. I don't have a controller so I left the 6lb one on but it creeped so I swapped it out for 11lb, got up to 6 psi in 5th and was around 10.7-10.5 with my lc2 I was kinda surprised honestly


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

drogon

New Member
Oct 29, 2013
249
0
0
Dallas Texas
Where is this supposed to plug into? I can't find anything I missed in this area
31dc9e1d83c0391599b79f8e05b1a562.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk