I believe that is a mystery unused plug...............there is a harness explanation thread with pics somewhere. (Maybe search user 92Teal's threads irc)
GC89;2067347 said:I believe that is a mystery unused plug...............there is a harness explanation thread with pics somewhere. (Maybe search user 92Teal's threads irc)
suprarx7nut;2067132 said:1. The head should be resurfaced almost always. Unless you know its history and you know it was resurfaced recently (a few thousand miles or a few months of usage) you should plan on a resurface. The TSRM calls out flatness specs, but says to replace the head once it's at that point. The only reason not to resurface is if you're afraid the head is already shaved too much. I can't see any spec called out in the TSRM.
2. Yes, generally the measurement is from the head gasket surface to the valve cover gasket surface.
hvyman;2068498 said:Dry. If they don't come with anything on them you don't need to grease them.
Main seals go in dry too unless they come from Toyota with grease already applied to them.
hvyman;2069124 said:For what engine.
Need to have the corresponding dipstick tube for the engine and sump that your using. I.e. A front sump 1jz will not bolt up to a rear sump. And 1jz and 2jz are different
I've seen just the bare transmission, no slave cylinder/flywheel /pp/or clutch for 1000$. Some lately have been posted for 1200$. I sold mine last year for 7or800 if I remember right.Janch;2070706 said:guys. how much would FULL R154 mk3 supra swap worth out of 1991 with 75k miles on clock?
sheedy126;2069184 said:When using a standalone ecu and controlling the factory 7mgte IAC, is it necessary to route the valve back into the turbo intake tube as done in the factory setup?
Or would it do me just as good to run a small breather filter on the valve itself. Similar in size to a small breather that would go onto a pvc vent
I'm trying to run as little tubing as I need to, to clean up the engine bay
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I did that with my 1jz and the breather was a entry point for very hot engine bay air, idle would get very lean after idling for long in heavy traffic. Instead of playing with the MAT table in tunerstudio I just rerouted the IAC back to the intake and it made everything simpler.rhs;2070775 said:On my 1JZ, I slapped a breather filter right onto the IAC when I converted to single turbo. Haven't had issues. Can't speak for the 7MGTE specifically though. Driftmotion sells a small K&N breather that will fit.
sheedy126;2070712 said:I've seen just the bare transmission, no slave cylinder/flywheel /pp/or clutch for 1000$. Some lately have been posted for 1200$. I sold mine last year for 7or800 if I remember right.
I'd say you would be in the 1000$ range if you find the right person. Just my opinion though with what I've seen for sale on the Facebook for sale pages
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No just put a air filter on the nipple. It doesn't need the hose since the engine is no longer MAF based. I bought a $10 filter from autozone(link )and bored it out slightly with a drill and it fit perfectly. I will say when I had the hood up and started the car cold that little filter was louder than the 3" exhaust haha.sheedy126;2069184 said:When using a standalone ecu and controlling the factory 7mgte IAC, is it necessary to route the valve back into the turbo intake tube as done in the factory setup?
Or would it do me just as good to run a small breather filter on the valve itself. Similar in size to a small breather that would go onto a pvc vent
I'm trying to run as little tubing as I need to, to clean up the engine bay
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Sounds like the wastegate arm is rattling.Janch;2070861 said:Hey.
Please someone take a minute and listen to this rattle. Maybe you've heard it before and know what it is. it comes on at around 3250rpm and i think it comes from turbo but what could it be? i have no idea.
[video]https://youtu.be/Kp1-jk38Bu8[/video]
ask92;2070863 said:Sounds like the wastegate arm is rattling.