The Small Questions Thread
- Thread starter RPSil13
- Start date
chevyguyjoe;2036625 said:
It was an option on 86.5-88 cars that replaced the clock on the dash for one that would also tell you fuel mileage and engine codes. Not all cars have the wiring for it though.
Does anyone have a picture of where they mount and connect? I bought one a year ago and haven't been able to find any useful info.
AbsoluteSpeed;2036630 said:
I know this is the connector under the dash, can't find pics of the ECU for it at all
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3p141592654;2036641 said:
Sweet deal! It's in the doner car then! Thanks for the pic. Now I wonder if I can swap dash harnesses. I wouldn't mind doing the wiring either since it'll be apart anyways for the fog light rewire mod
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So my baby sits in the garage for the winter and every couple of weeks I go over to start her up and go for a short little drive to keep her in good shape. The past couple of months I noticed it cranked slower and then eventually I needed to start jump starting her to go for a drive. O.k. so this last time I had to jump start it got her started fine, engine sounds as good as ever but now it will not stay running or idle after I get her jump started. I know by this point my battery is d.o.a. but now why will she not idle for me? I am hoping it is just the fact that the battery is not doing anything to cover the cars basic engine electrical needs. Just ideas would be great. I'm hoping my alternator is o.k. but with some cars I know that alternators can take a turn for the worse if the battery has been having/causing issues. Any thoughts are appreciated as I have been away from my car and this thread for a while. Thanks again.
IchibanEye;2036678 said:
I run a 2 amp battery conditioner. It's automatic, when the charge drops to a certain level it tops it up. Otherwise my battery could freeze. You just need a cheap voltmeter to test the battery/alternator. Handy little tool.
Grandavi;2036710 said:
I understand that and thank you for the tip. This however did not and does not address that questions I asked to begin with. There is not tending a dead/cooked battery. I also never needed a batt. tender before with longer stints of the car sitting. Anyways back on topic. So if anyone could please address my specific question/problem I originally presented that would be great, thanks again.
You have to try a good battery first. Then test the charging system (I believe someone pointed out a dead battery can short the alternator. My point about the conditioner is that the short startup takes more charge out than you put back in. Generally a dead battery can be considered a short in the system.
if CT26 exhaust side is restrictive doesnt upgrading wheel that will increase hp and exhaust gases will make it even more restrictive. i understand that at the same rotating speed it will flow more air but then again... do you need to upgrade exhaust side as well? porting?
You should be using a a battery tender. A short drive and then letting sit again will not fully recharge the battery. So basically it's just been worn out. And when running the engine with a dead battery the alternator works hard to charge it.
Change the battery and get a smart low amp charger.
Change the battery and get a smart low amp charger.
Janch;2036793 said:
The exhaust side remains at the same restriction level. It's why it runs out of breath at 5500. Putting a bigger wheel in it will not change anything. It would need a bigger exhaust housing and putting that much money into a ct is a waste of time considering is close to 30year old tech.
It's what I ran into. Ct26 upgrades are great for just a normal setup. For true performance, I went T4 and better injectors. (Lots more to really perform). Initially I was wowed by the simplicity of the BPU path. It is great... Don't get me wrong, but now my car is a bit scary... I have to actually drive it or risk leaving the road
Snagged an 86.5 today. The rocker panels are rusted, but other than that I'm not seeing any signs of major rust on the car. Is this a common problem? I don't see any rust on anything but the rocker panels when looking through the holes.
Also, is this easy to replace? I have a donor with no rust.
Also, is this easy to replace? I have a donor with no rust.
My car failed inspection again, at 25mph it passed NOx but at 15mph it failed NOx. I do have a CATCO 3in high flow cat that I got about 2 years ago but I doubt that went bad already unless those cats are known to be crap. Here are my results from the first time the results from the second are the same the numbers are a little different but not enough to mean anything. I changed my spark plugs last night then test drove it at first I had a CEL but realized my O2 sensor was unplugged probably from me removing the intake, so I plugged it back in and cleared the codes by pulling the EFI fuse then test drove it last night. This morning the idle was low around 500rpm and sort of loping, so I drove it around for a bit then the idle sorted itself out then I took it to get it tested again and it failed. What else should I look into? Also I should mention I passed inspection when I had the EGR cooler gasket leak and I fixed it a few months or so ago.
