The Small Questions Thread

[Janch]

Sup guys. Im in the process of getting last bits of finally putting my engine back together. Head sits on table while basically just block is still in the car. I want to clean and reseal the oil pan since old sealant look like crap. So its basically just 2 engine mount bolts and up it goes just 'slightly' enough that i can remove oil pan??? What about automatic gearbox? Do i need to unbolt it as well? Im kinda stuck at this point...

I heard its kinda nightmare to do that normally but i mean most of the job when removing the head is allready done.

 

[drogon]

Swapping in the turbo tac from the turbo car just wondering what paint can be/best for freshing up the red on the needles. Thought it was on the LED lighting thread but I couldn't find it.


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[hvyman]

You need gauge needle paint.

and stock is a orangeish color not red.

 

[drogon]

You need gauge needle paint.

and stock is a orangeish color not red.

Thanks man, haha here I am thinking mine are super faded.


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[drogon]

So what do people usually pay for machine work on 7m heads, I got quoted $780 after talking him down from $860, what is included is inspection, milling for MHG, new valve guides, cutting the seats and valves, new shims. Seems a bit high?


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[hvyman]

That doesnt seem too bad. Tho you shouldnt really need new shims just need to re shim unlss he doesnt have shims and has to get new for the correct size.

But if your going to do all that you might want to look into porting it some as well.

 

[drogon]

That doesnt seem too bad. Tho you shouldnt really need new shims just need to re shim unlss he doesnt have shims and has to get new for the correct size.

But if your going to do all that you might want to look into porting it some as well.

Thanks man I'll ask if he can throw that in, I wasn't really planing on spending more than $200 for milling and checking the head. But he said it was weak under vac. Oh well small price to pay for peace of mind.


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[super51fan]

Seems expensive to me as well. Why replace valve guides. Usually very little wear with Toyota valve guides. If they take the correct amount off valve face and stem you might need a few shims. IMO good luck. I would ask about why you need guides replaced. I hope they are using OEM valve stem seals at that price.

 

[Doat]

to replace the stock oil cooler hoses do you just need 12ft of hose or 24ft? Looking on Rockauto and they sell 1/2" X 12 hose not sure if I need to buy 2 or just one.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Thanks man I'll ask if he can throw that in, I wasn't really planing on spending more than $200 for milling and checking the head. But he said it was weak under vac. Oh well small price to pay for peace of mind.


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For machine work here's roughly what I've paid:

Clean, pressure test and mill: $75-100

3 angle valve job: $300-450

replace valve stem seals (parts cost NOT included): $80

I've never paid a shop to adjust the shims. That's something you can do on your own rather easily if you have a Toyota valve tool. I think I have an extra still new in packaging if you want it. $20 shipped PM me. You also wouldn't need to buy many new shims. Often you can shuffle your own shims around to cover the needed sizes and only end up needing a few new shims. I also collected a bunch from junkyards years ago so I have plenty of spares. If there's a yard around you that's a great idea.

to replace the stock oil cooler hoses do you just need 12ft of hose or 24ft? Looking on Rockauto and they sell 1/2" X 12 hose not sure if I need to buy 2 or just one.

Without measuring or anything I would think 12 feet would cover you closer than 24. 24 feet is way too much.

 

[hvyman]

stock oil cooler uses 3/8th hose not 1/2. and if your using the factory hard lines as well then you need like less than 6ft. Napa should have some good hose for a good price without having to wait.

 

[Doat]

Thanks, should I upgrade the entire unit with a new cooler and stainless lines with AN fittings or is that not worth the hassle?

 

[drogon]

I have 3 questions, I'm swapping over the tach from a pre 89 gte to my NA cluster mainly bc I don't feel like soldering. But there seems to be several differences, is it supposed to be a straight forward swap? Turbo on top Na on bottom

turbo no holes on the left

NA 2 holes on left side

I also want to keep the super monitor with it since I'm gonna be na-t do I just swap that over as well? I know there's a computer somewhere under the column I'll have to locate that, any extra wiring required? Will the voltmeter still work? I'll prob get an aftermarket boostgauge so I don't need/want the gte boost gauge.


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[Silver MK3]

The voltmeter should still work, For the super monitor you will probably just have to switch out the computers with one for a GTE instead of a GE as the computers base MPG and that stuff on the size of the injectors and the GTE has bigger ones. If you are going to a larger injector it may not be worth it since the GTE one will be off as well then. I'm not sure about the tach. Are they off the same model year car?

 

[drogon]

The voltmeter should still work, For the super monitor you will probably just have to switch out the computers with one for a GTE instead of a GE as the computers base MPG and that stuff on the size of the injectors and the GTE has bigger ones. If you are going to a larger injector it may not be worth it since the GTE one will be off as well then. I'm not sure about the tach. Are they off the same model year car?

The super monitor came out the gte, unfortunately I don't see the comp under the Column from the donor car. I'm not sure what year the gte cluster is out of, but I'm pretty sure the extra stuff is for the cruise control, after carful examination it was only 1 wire that connected the extra 2 boards and the gte had a empty hole exactly where the Ge was soldered so I just transferred it over and soldered it in the same place.


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[Silver MK3]

The super monitor came out the gte, unfortunately I don't see the comp under the Column from the donor car. I'm not sure what year the gte cluster is out of, but I'm pretty sure the extra stuff is for the cruise control, after carful examination it was only 1 wire that connected the extra 2 boards and the gte had a empty hole exactly where the Ge was soldered so I just transferred it over and soldered it in the same place.


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I think the super monitor computer gets tucked up above the brake pedal and clutch kinda. I'm not 100% though. It's been a while since I looked into getting one for mine. What year is your Supra, looks to be a 89+? If so then your car almost definitely does not have the wiring for the super monitor so it would not be a simple plug and play install. I think there was one person somewhere who ran all the wires and stuff because their's did not come with the wiring from the factory, but it is a lot of work.

 

[3p141592654]

I installed a super monitor in a 1990. It was a lot of work.

 

[drogon]

The production date is 10/89 not sure if it's considered a 90's but either way I doubt I'll have the wiring. Damn I'll have to look into hardwiring it I suppose?


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[Silver MK3]

10/89 is gonna be a 90 model car most likely, go by whatever your title say's. In 89 they stopped putting the wiring in them so your's won't have it most likely. Like 3p said it is a lot of work to install one. I have an 87 that unfortunately didn't come with the wiring and once I found that out I gave up on getting a Super Monitor. Too much working with wires for me to be comfortable...

 

[hvyman]

Imo its not even close to being worth the trouble.