The Small Questions Thread

hvyman

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Apr 17, 2007
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Remove it. You can get the fitting from Titan and put the adapter on the block. Iirc there is enough hose on the one of the hoses to just basically loop the lines.

Also if using a cooler you need a thermostat. If not oil temps will stay too low.
 

schmuckingham

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Dec 12, 2014
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hvyman;2038834 said:
Remove it. You can get the fitting from Titan and put the adapter on the block. Iirc there is enough hose on the one of the hoses to just basically loop the lines.

Also if using a cooler you need a thermostat. If not oil temps will stay too low.


Even in summer temps?



I hope the one used in the 1G matches the threads Titan sells
 

drogon

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Oct 29, 2013
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Doat;2038545 said:
what do you guys think about this hose kit? I want to replace all of my coolant hoses with silicone, so I don't have to worry about them leaking or bursting on me. This kit seems to be of good quality it's 3 ply has a high burst PSI but I would like to get a second opinion.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-1992-S...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d1f549593&vxp=mtr

Nice find I was gonna buy the same kit but it was listed at 124.99 lol I will be buying this one now


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

MkiiiAllDay

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Jul 19, 2013
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orange, CA
Hey guys been thinking of gettng new tires right now and was wondering what size in should get
Specs:
Now-17x9.5+12 all around w/ 1-1.25 inch spacers 215/45 r17
New- removing spacers, prefer some tires that are low profile, no real extreme stretch, would these work?
68c9f6d51e5ad74315cbba8cebb33dbc.jpg
0cb9faf12f3028554e84db9b3747ee87.jpg
 
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hvyman

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schmuckingham;2038835 said:
Even in summer temps?



I hope the one used in the 1G matches the threads Titan sells

Yeah. It would be easier to get up to temp in hotter weather but if cruising on the fwy it's going to get cooled too much. It needs to stay around 170-190*f

All the Toyota filters use the same threads. But with a 1g I'm not sure you would need the part Titan sells. If it's like the 7m then just use the 7mge stud or a 1g stud with an relocation adapter or a sandwich plate with t stat on the block.
 

schmuckingham

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hvyman;2039127 said:
Yeah. It would be easier to get up to temp in hotter weather but if cruising on the fwy it's going to get cooled too much. It needs to stay around 170-190*f

All the Toyota filters use the same threads. But with a 1g I'm not sure you would need the part Titan sells. If it's like the 7m then just use the 7mge stud or a 1g stud with an relocation adapter or a sandwich plate with t stat on the block.


I was going to just loop the hoses and leave the factory cooler there with my remote filter adapter over top the factory cooler. I will be up a thermostat for my cooler, I ran a cooler on my last Mustang with no thermostat but it was fine but that is apples to oranges I suppose.
 

hvyman

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Without a temp sensor for the oil there's no way to tell that it was ok on the mustang either.

Doesn't matter the car. Oil needs to be at operating temp when the engine is at operating temp.

To do it right. Loop the lines. Loose the stock cooler. And install some sort of a thermostat. Whether it is a sand which plate that mounts the block or a remote mount thermostat. They range from about 100-170$. Not exactly tons of money.
 

schmuckingham

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Dec 12, 2014
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hvyman;2039338 said:
Without a temp sensor for the oil there's no way to tell that it was ok on the mustang either.

Doesn't matter the car. Oil needs to be at operating temp when the engine is at operating temp.

To do it right. Loop the lines. Loose the stock cooler. And install some sort of a thermostat. Whether it is a sand which plate that mounts the block or a remote mount thermostat. They range from about 100-170$. Not exactly tons of money.


I monitored oil temps with the standalone on the Mustang, never had an issues but I spun the car hard compared to the 1G
 

Bogwon

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Dec 1, 2012
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Installing one of the driftmotion intercooler kits (2.5") and noticed that the kit only goes to the 90 degree elbow and leaves the 2" elbow and "tetris" looking pipe that connects to the compressor output. My question is: I want to replace the 25+ year old rubber pipe with silicone, is there any reason I should not increase to 2.5" rather than the stock 2" for those two pipes?
 

Sside

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May 20, 2008
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Bogwon;2039527 said:
Installing one of the driftmotion intercooler kits (2.5") and noticed that the kit only goes to the 90 degree elbow and leaves the 2" elbow and "tetris" looking pipe that connects to the compressor output. My question is: I want to replace the 25+ year old rubber pipe with silicone, is there any reason I should not increase to 2.5" rather than the stock 2" for those two pipes?

If you don't go up to 2.5 you will increase slowness.... Bigger pipes means more speed duh... Just do it.... :D
 

hvyman

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Your thinking is flawed. In ic pipes bigger pipes take longer to fill and will give you more lag and slower response. A smaller pipe will fill faster and give you a faster response.

A larger turbo will flow more air at a lower pressure but that is completely different. And a larger turbo will also have more lag as well.

You can run 2.5 inch pipes from turbo to throttle body. That is your best bet.
 

Grandavi

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Sep 25, 2008
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I found that with a CT26, upgrading the intercooler (57 trim turbo) lost me almost 2 psi boost pressure. So, the stock system is adequate for a CT26 (although there is one pipe that is a bottleneck). With my SP6262 T4 setup, the larger intercooler was needed and 2.5" piping with a 4" intake pipe work excellent. Going larger than 2.5" I think would cause me performance issues because I would lose pressure in the system (my intake/exhaust ports have no porting and am on stock cams).

You have to match the pipes for the engine and turbo really. And even the turbo, a lot don't think about it properly. You want response and power, not just pure power with no response or vice versa. I have found from reading and from actually having it on my car that the 6262 is an excellent match (with a .68 ar). However, the response is a little slower (as in turbo lag) as I don't really hit the power until 4200 rpm at which point my wheels will lose traction in 3rd. A QSV will solve that by moving my spool time sooner.

If I was a 2j, then this discussion wouldn't hold the same as they have a higher redline (the 7M doesn't like higher than 6200 if your being "safe" with the engine).

For intake, I wouldn't play with upgrades unless you were going to swap out the CT26 for a larger flowing turbo. I found it hurt more than helped. The stock intercooler and intake piping is adequate (note that I didn't discuss the little restriction that apparently is in the 3000 pipe because I have the HKS 3000 pipe replacement with is actually bigger than a stock version.
 

Bogwon

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Dec 1, 2012
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Bremerton, WA
Great info, thanks guys! I'm running a 60-1 upgraded CT26 and my intercooler piping had developed a leak or 3 being in there since 1987, so I decided to upgrade with the CX racing kit. As always, I appreciate the response from everyone here at SM thanks again!