Nice solder work on the core Dave.
I did like Toyota and used rubber o'rings. I hope they hold up...
I did like Toyota and used rubber o'rings. I hope they hold up...
The "Hurry Up and Wait" build
- Thread starter thedave925
- Start date
CajunKenny;1626040 said:
Kenny, the first time I replaced the core, I didn't know about o-rings and didn't have another vehicle to drive to get another pair.
I slid the old o-rings into place until 1/16" from the joint butt, put a couple wraps of teflon tape, fitted the core extensions and clipped, pressure tested to 20 psi, installed and enjoyed leak free for 2 years.
I had 3 BHGs in that time, I suspect they really affect the corrosion inhibitors of the coolant (Toyo Red in all cases).
My first with the car was a seeper and changed early.
Number 2 was me hotshitting around town and pulled into a parking lot idling while on the phone. I pull out fast and on shift to second the engine dropped RPMs too fast, wouldn't idle etc.
And the third BHG was a trip to Santa Cruz, and Hwy 17 has a long uphill straight that kept me in boost for about 2 minutes. She had a lot of idle popping after but got me around town and the ~70 miles back home.
That gasket change was fun, a day to do it means disconnecting the basics from the block to pull the head.
With only the downpipe, coolant elbows and oil lines disconnected, I climbed into the bay, stood on the shock towers and barely picked up the assembly.
Getting down was easier than stepping on the rad mount on a raised front end (+ 1.5" rise from missing the head weight) to put the head back on lol
I was younger and stubborn, and impatient for help
Big side track...yeah BHGs can wear other things out. I was getting to the corrosion wearing on the cheaply made heater core.
The o-rings however should last you a dozen years if you don't disturb the area.
Rotate those core arms a few years from now, and the seal might be compromised, as it the way with rubber things to really attach to things if left undisturbed, slightly tearing at the surfaces on removal.
As a plumber, I run into old tub and sink faucets sealed with o-rings at non moving areas. They'll last YEARS (20+), you'll be fine.
The sun has gone down, and dinner and internet has me stuck again.
So far today, i got 80% of the gauge runs done. Its all in the planning.
There'll be pics eventually, my phone usb cord got gobbled up at my GF's house couple days back. They're busy moving, so I'll probably go buy another cord.
This car will be done tomorrow. I will make it so.
What a deal Dave! I've only had one BHG and that was enough!
Thanks for the confidence builder regarding the o'rings. Heater Core replacement is not high up on my "Fun" list of things to do.
Good luck tomorrow!
Thanks for the confidence builder regarding the o'rings. Heater Core replacement is not high up on my "Fun" list of things to do.
Good luck tomorrow!
Haha hope I get some stuff done today, my Gf's parents are moving into another house and they want me to hang up some blinds before they move the bigger things into place.
So, I'm going to bust out 2-3 blinds right now and then work on the supra. Most likely actually get to working on it after lunch lol
So, I'm going to bust out 2-3 blinds right now and then work on the supra. Most likely actually get to working on it after lunch lol
Looks good Dave! I've been reading through here and there for a while. I've got about the same set up as you do for your oil cooling setup, except that I used braided hose and -10AN line/fittings, and mounted my Accusump and valve on the lower rad mount. I removed my A/C though.
For the EPC, are you mounting a toggle switch in the cabin? If so, the switch supplied with the EPC fits PERFECTLY where the headlight washer button sits on the stereo surround
For the EPC, are you mounting a toggle switch in the cabin? If so, the switch supplied with the EPC fits PERFECTLY where the headlight washer button sits on the stereo surround
Thanks for following along Moy!!
Aeroquip pushlok -10 hose and fittings used here, for keeping down the abrasion and bling factor
I like the sound of the location of your Accusump, what size did you use?
The EPC did come with a toggle switch I'll probably be using, switched off during break-in of the engine.
Its a rectangle body with round mount and nut, I think I'll modify some ABS sheeting to fit a button location by the foglight switch.
The only negative about that switch is the flat head-and-clamp style wire accommodation leaves wires open to shorting, so another switch, maybe an illuminating rocker, might be used.
The headlight squirter button hole will be for my alarm button and LED.
Great idea though, I'll consider it depending on what my positive feed for my alarm complication situation provides conveniently.
So I haven't touched the car yet today.
I mounted 3 blinds at the other house, and then made lunch for my GF, her apprentice, and myself, washed dishes and headed to my parents house where I am sitting, glued to the computer again. lol.
Completed last night:
-run for the WBo2 (Innovative LC-1, changing to PLX in future),
-oil pressure sensor mounted and lead ran,
-MAP sensor mounted with lead ran,
-Boost solenoid mounted with lead ran,
-Boost sensor for Prosport gauge mounted with lead ran
-IAT sensor mounted with lead ran,
-Accusump EPC lead ran
Some of the leads above need extending to enter the passenger compartment.
Using loom is good for protecting and hiding wire but takes time to install.
There's a dinner tonight at 630 for my parents to eat with her parents, so I have to kinda rush.
I'm hoping to have the couple extensions done, and wire prep for the Prosport gauges complete.
Too bad I won't have the car up today, but soon, very soon
And I found the missing usb cord at my GF's house, there will be pics again YAY!
Aeroquip pushlok -10 hose and fittings used here, for keeping down the abrasion and bling factor
I like the sound of the location of your Accusump, what size did you use?
The EPC did come with a toggle switch I'll probably be using, switched off during break-in of the engine.
Its a rectangle body with round mount and nut, I think I'll modify some ABS sheeting to fit a button location by the foglight switch.
The only negative about that switch is the flat head-and-clamp style wire accommodation leaves wires open to shorting, so another switch, maybe an illuminating rocker, might be used.
The headlight squirter button hole will be for my alarm button and LED.
Great idea though, I'll consider it depending on what my positive feed for my alarm complication situation provides conveniently.
So I haven't touched the car yet today.
I mounted 3 blinds at the other house, and then made lunch for my GF, her apprentice, and myself, washed dishes and headed to my parents house where I am sitting, glued to the computer again. lol.
Completed last night:
-run for the WBo2 (Innovative LC-1, changing to PLX in future),
-oil pressure sensor mounted and lead ran,
-MAP sensor mounted with lead ran,
-Boost solenoid mounted with lead ran,
-Boost sensor for Prosport gauge mounted with lead ran
-IAT sensor mounted with lead ran,
-Accusump EPC lead ran
Some of the leads above need extending to enter the passenger compartment.
Using loom is good for protecting and hiding wire but takes time to install.
There's a dinner tonight at 630 for my parents to eat with her parents, so I have to kinda rush.
I'm hoping to have the couple extensions done, and wire prep for the Prosport gauges complete.
Too bad I won't have the car up today, but soon, very soon
And I found the missing usb cord at my GF's house, there will be pics again YAY!
no problem Dave. I used a 2 quart, same as you.
I'm interested to see how you wire in the gauges. Are you going to tap into other wires or use the blank fuse spots on the driver side kick panel fuse box?
I'm interested to see how you wire in the gauges. Are you going to tap into other wires or use the blank fuse spots on the driver side kick panel fuse box?
The EPC instructions didn't mention anything about fusing their switch, do you think a 5 amp fuse will suffice?
The location of my 2qt accusump is clever but means removing the radiator when I go to have the AC flushed and charged, unless I can remove the alternator to get the room to pull the accusump.
I've got lots of line still, I'm open to relocation ideas, with a couple caveats:
-There will be a FFIM, so I'm planning to send the hard pipe through the front panel where the battery was
-I'm trying to keep as much OEM as possible. While the AC condenser might get replaced with a cross flow, i'm not doing without AC.
- I'm avoiding passenger compartment mounting
I'll snap over and under pics of the bumper space for ideas.
Initially I ran a 10awg dedicated circuit from the battery for the alarm, with inline fuses as I go for accessories.
I greatly dislike wires that fall into the foot pedal area while driving and this makes fuses hard to get to when i hang'em high and tight.
The fuse panel sounds like a great option, I'll look at it.
I've got a 2 amp I'll be using for the gauges, since each came with a daisy chain power harness. Good and bad is one fuse will run them all.
The kickpanel idea sounds very clean, I'm going to see if I can make it work.
Off I go to do pics, solder the last plug of the extensions, fish them into driver compartment, and establish gauge power. Then comes dash type stuff.
The location of my 2qt accusump is clever but means removing the radiator when I go to have the AC flushed and charged, unless I can remove the alternator to get the room to pull the accusump.
I've got lots of line still, I'm open to relocation ideas, with a couple caveats:
-There will be a FFIM, so I'm planning to send the hard pipe through the front panel where the battery was
-I'm trying to keep as much OEM as possible. While the AC condenser might get replaced with a cross flow, i'm not doing without AC.
- I'm avoiding passenger compartment mounting
I'll snap over and under pics of the bumper space for ideas.
Initially I ran a 10awg dedicated circuit from the battery for the alarm, with inline fuses as I go for accessories.
I greatly dislike wires that fall into the foot pedal area while driving and this makes fuses hard to get to when i hang'em high and tight.
The fuse panel sounds like a great option, I'll look at it.
I've got a 2 amp I'll be using for the gauges, since each came with a daisy chain power harness. Good and bad is one fuse will run them all.
The kickpanel idea sounds very clean, I'm going to see if I can make it work.
Off I go to do pics, solder the last plug of the extensions, fish them into driver compartment, and establish gauge power. Then comes dash type stuff.
I'm not sure about fuse size. I chose to splice into my cigarette lighter feed wire for some reason I might go back and either run a wire from battery to the switch, or tap into the power wire that I've got going to the e-fan I mounted on the backside of the oil cooler.
I'm not sure what size fuse to use, however. I do believe the instructions that came with either the Accusump or EPC should tell you what size to use
I'm not sure what size fuse to use, however. I do believe the instructions that came with either the Accusump or EPC should tell you what size to use
I haven't seen anything fuse related in either manual. I'll double check the accusump manual...
4 amp fuse in 1) of EPC manual, last line practically.
" 1) Locate an accessory terminal in your fuse panel that is energized when the ignition is on. On applications without a fuse panel, an accessory terminal on the ignition switch can be used. This terminal should only be energized when the switch is on. If the lead is not fused, a 4 amp fuse should be installed."
^^^ Typing class, most useful thing absorbed from highschool, made paraphrasing that like a minute lolz
4 amp fuse in 1) of EPC manual, last line practically.
" 1) Locate an accessory terminal in your fuse panel that is energized when the ignition is on. On applications without a fuse panel, an accessory terminal on the ignition switch can be used. This terminal should only be energized when the switch is on. If the lead is not fused, a 4 amp fuse should be installed."
^^^ Typing class, most useful thing absorbed from highschool, made paraphrasing that like a minute lolz
I found your build thread Moy, I see about your EPC switch placement, it's convenient for the switch body.
i'm still determined to install it in the Coin tray thingy lol
i'm still determined to install it in the Coin tray thingy lol
Viewable Goodness:
Been pluggin along last couple days. Yesterday seemed I couldn't work a solid 45min without interruptions.
I wanted to be done on Sunday, but complications keep coming up.
The latest is another plug that needs to be depinned and switched from my old harness to the new engine harness to mate to its proper connector on the firewall connector.
It is different going from 89 to 90, this second plug is the big square above the ECU. Same pinout, just a bit different plug geography.
And I'm totally hung up on what this plug does:
I have a feeling its for some option on my car, and my old engine harness has the plug for this firewall harness plug, but the engine harness thats being used doesn't have it.
If I don't use that plug, what do I lose?
Some options maybe not found on other cars:
PPS
Sport package (TEMS power seats)
The car info if someone (ie Jeff Lange) knows off hand.
I've been searching awhile now for the vin thread I've seen a few years ago, but 'vin code' gives me 20 pages out to april '10.
NVM, read thisback in 05 and couldn't find them for a sec lol
"differences by year" http://www.mkiiitech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26
^Doesn't help much, i've killed 3 hrs for that plug, just gonna keep assembling and see what happens...
EDIT: Found VIN Thread
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?47729-Data-Tag-VIN-Decoding-Information , a Jeff Lange Production
Been pluggin along last couple days. Yesterday seemed I couldn't work a solid 45min without interruptions.
I wanted to be done on Sunday, but complications keep coming up.
The latest is another plug that needs to be depinned and switched from my old harness to the new engine harness to mate to its proper connector on the firewall connector.
It is different going from 89 to 90, this second plug is the big square above the ECU. Same pinout, just a bit different plug geography.
And I'm totally hung up on what this plug does:
I have a feeling its for some option on my car, and my old engine harness has the plug for this firewall harness plug, but the engine harness thats being used doesn't have it.
If I don't use that plug, what do I lose?
Some options maybe not found on other cars:
PPS
Sport package (TEMS power seats)
The car info if someone (ie Jeff Lange) knows off hand.
I've been searching awhile now for the vin thread I've seen a few years ago, but 'vin code' gives me 20 pages out to april '10.
NVM, read thisback in 05 and couldn't find them for a sec lol
"differences by year" http://www.mkiiitech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26
^Doesn't help much, i've killed 3 hrs for that plug, just gonna keep assembling and see what happens...
EDIT: Found VIN Thread
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?47729-Data-Tag-VIN-Decoding-Information , a Jeff Lange Production
Last edited:
thedave925;1627316 said:
The coin tray would be easy to do. I would have put mine there, but I have a toggle switch in that spot that I'm using the the e-fan I have on the backside of my oil cooler. Just use some sheet metal, cut to fit, and stick it in place. I painted my plate flat black so it would blend in with the color of the switch panel.
Dave, your accusump may fit infront of the passenger wheel, behind the bumper but forward of the windshield washer fluid reservior. Depending of course on if you've routed your IC pipes through the fender or through the panel under the headlight. My pipes go through the panel and thus leave plenty of room to mount my somewhat large oil catch can there. Perhaps your accusump will fit there instead?
Good luck and thanks for the soldering tips, they helped me figure out a problem with my house's plumbing too.
Good luck and thanks for the soldering tips, they helped me figure out a problem with my house's plumbing too.
Thanks Keros!
The relocated oil filter lives on other side of the panel the windshield wiper reservoir is mounted to.
The OEM IC fender pipe runs to under the frame rail for the bumper support.
I suppose there is space at the driver bumper location, but I plan on having an FFIM setup in the future.
Talk about building myself into a corner..
More wire stuff:
From Cyngusx1.net EPC, http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/part.aspx?S=82121
82121-14550 Supra (NATO) 08/1988 - 08/1989 MA70..5F..TWT What I'm trying to install
82121-14551 Supra (NATO) 08/1989 - 08/1990 MA70..MTM..TWT..USA What I used to have installed
MA70..SPR..MTM..TWT..CND
There are subtle plug and wire run differences.
I tried to switch the second block plug from the 551 B harness and have compatibility issues with the new 550 1 harness.
Theres a few wires that don't belong, due either to different color scheme or amount of wires per plug.
Frustrating.
More studying and perhaps purchasing a different harness altogether ASAP.
Champion Toyota lists it at ~530 before tax and shipping. Having it in stock is another story... I need to call it in I guess.
The relocated oil filter lives on other side of the panel the windshield wiper reservoir is mounted to.
The OEM IC fender pipe runs to under the frame rail for the bumper support.
I suppose there is space at the driver bumper location, but I plan on having an FFIM setup in the future.
Talk about building myself into a corner..
More wire stuff:
From Cyngusx1.net EPC, http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/part.aspx?S=82121
82121-14550 Supra (NATO) 08/1988 - 08/1989 MA70..5F..TWT What I'm trying to install
82121-14551 Supra (NATO) 08/1989 - 08/1990 MA70..MTM..TWT..USA What I used to have installed
MA70..SPR..MTM..TWT..CND
There are subtle plug and wire run differences.
I tried to switch the second block plug from the 551 B harness and have compatibility issues with the new 550 1 harness.
Theres a few wires that don't belong, due either to different color scheme or amount of wires per plug.
Frustrating.
More studying and perhaps purchasing a different harness altogether ASAP.
Champion Toyota lists it at ~530 before tax and shipping. Having it in stock is another story... I need to call it in I guess.
A break in the wiring:
from http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1627729#post1627729
"...Cross referencing info from the site that hvyman provided, to what I have in the car, reveals that the red, violet, red/white, and black are reference runs for TEMS.
I'm still figuring out the larger gauge brown and blue runs."
from http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1627729#post1627729
"...Cross referencing info from the site that hvyman provided, to what I have in the car, reveals that the red, violet, red/white, and black are reference runs for TEMS.
I'm still figuring out the larger gauge brown and blue runs."
Has lots of wiring info
http://www.1jz.com/tech/docs/
The jz plug IH1 and IH2 is the ma B1 and B2... not much else correlates.
chinozie.googlepages.com/Supra_MA70_Wiring_Manual.pdf
is hard to read but helps some.
Because I can't read it well, I'm having a hard time looking through the EWDs picking out the wires and which connectors they go through.
I don't like giving up, 89 is an odd year and spending that 530 for a new harness is awfully tempting.
More homework to do, I'm not far off
Best luck I've had is using the link
chinozie.googlepages.com/Supra_MA70_Wiring_Manual.pdf
It shows the odd body connector I have (IE2 in it)
And so I've taken to drawing the plug on paper, and listing the pins in numerical order, then systematically scanning sections for plug locations which have wire colors and pins next to them.
No kidding the TSRM doesn't have connectors listed in the EWDs so before you miss anything:
Thats the fastest way to arrive to a pinout for myself anyways...
Currently, have written all the wires for plugs IE1 and IE2 from the EWD Supplement Handbook.
Tomorrow I get to see what got missed in today's work.
That large brown wire is still bothering me.
http://www.1jz.com/tech/docs/
The jz plug IH1 and IH2 is the ma B1 and B2... not much else correlates.
chinozie.googlepages.com/Supra_MA70_Wiring_Manual.pdf
is hard to read but helps some.
Because I can't read it well, I'm having a hard time looking through the EWDs picking out the wires and which connectors they go through.
I don't like giving up, 89 is an odd year and spending that 530 for a new harness is awfully tempting.
More homework to do, I'm not far off
Best luck I've had is using the link
chinozie.googlepages.com/Supra_MA70_Wiring_Manual.pdf
It shows the odd body connector I have (IE2 in it)
And so I've taken to drawing the plug on paper, and listing the pins in numerical order, then systematically scanning sections for plug locations which have wire colors and pins next to them.
No kidding the TSRM doesn't have connectors listed in the EWDs so before you miss anything:
Thats the fastest way to arrive to a pinout for myself anyways...
Currently, have written all the wires for plugs IE1 and IE2 from the EWD Supplement Handbook.
Tomorrow I get to see what got missed in today's work.
That large brown wire is still bothering me.
Last edited:
Busy weekend.
Friday was picking up Suprastroker88's supra from the Santa Cruz area.
Hwy 9 is nice if your in the area. Want some twisties, do Big Basin or Chinaman Grade for a route so tight you have to slow to sub- "scenic route" pace.
Friday night was helping my GF move and set up her new pad.
Saturday was finishing more of the move, more side job work.
Sunday I don't remember except being disappointed that many places aren't open.
Monday was helping Suprastroker88 with getting his supra squared away.
We did a different harness, redo some EGR stuff, VSV and upper intake mani installed. Almost done with it...
And today has been some chores, phone calls, a few honey do's around my GF's place, and I'm going to tool on the supra some more.
I think the 12awg blue and brown wires in what seems to be the TEMS plug for the early 90 body harness are the power and check connector runs.
The rear interior needs to come apart to verify the suspicion, which will happen later when I replace the tail light gaskets with TOYOTA gaskets
Not much to go, this is a test of patience to make sure everything is perfect before I go drive. SOOOO many details...
Friday was picking up Suprastroker88's supra from the Santa Cruz area.
Hwy 9 is nice if your in the area. Want some twisties, do Big Basin or Chinaman Grade for a route so tight you have to slow to sub- "scenic route" pace.
Friday night was helping my GF move and set up her new pad.
Saturday was finishing more of the move, more side job work.
Sunday I don't remember except being disappointed that many places aren't open.
Monday was helping Suprastroker88 with getting his supra squared away.
We did a different harness, redo some EGR stuff, VSV and upper intake mani installed. Almost done with it...
And today has been some chores, phone calls, a few honey do's around my GF's place, and I'm going to tool on the supra some more.
I think the 12awg blue and brown wires in what seems to be the TEMS plug for the early 90 body harness are the power and check connector runs.
The rear interior needs to come apart to verify the suspicion, which will happen later when I replace the tail light gaskets with TOYOTA gaskets
Not much to go, this is a test of patience to make sure everything is perfect before I go drive. SOOOO many details...
More harness connectors to change, the big one behind the combination meter aka gauge cluster has an addition wire plus the violet has a red stripe where the older voilet is just violet.
Thats 4 plugs to change to use the new dash, not hard just annoying that I have to break and study up.
The Cygnus 90 TEWD is different than the 08/89 EWD from post 78, and then I have another that is just 90 with color leads and connectors listed, and detailed section break down of individual systems.
Those 3 EWDs take a lot of time to study, and so far the 08/89 EWD seems to be more european than american even though its generalized. A few wires are not the same color, in addition to the other systems countries outside of the US get.
I'm nearly done and have taken the "if its not critical, fix it later" approach with the wiring.
The dash is in, obviously with the large square behind the dash cluster instigating another EWD study session.
It still stands that I can not determine the purpose of the brown and blue 12awg wires from connector B2, the white connector with the 4 TEMS wires (black, red, red/white, violet).
I'm guessing the brown is the TEMS chk connector lead, and maybe the blue is for the antenna motor or something. I did notice on one of the dash plugs the same shade brown... gonna continuity check it later...
Thats 4 plugs to change to use the new dash, not hard just annoying that I have to break and study up.
The Cygnus 90 TEWD is different than the 08/89 EWD from post 78, and then I have another that is just 90 with color leads and connectors listed, and detailed section break down of individual systems.
Those 3 EWDs take a lot of time to study, and so far the 08/89 EWD seems to be more european than american even though its generalized. A few wires are not the same color, in addition to the other systems countries outside of the US get.
I'm nearly done and have taken the "if its not critical, fix it later" approach with the wiring.
The dash is in, obviously with the large square behind the dash cluster instigating another EWD study session.
It still stands that I can not determine the purpose of the brown and blue 12awg wires from connector B2, the white connector with the 4 TEMS wires (black, red, red/white, violet).
I'm guessing the brown is the TEMS chk connector lead, and maybe the blue is for the antenna motor or something. I did notice on one of the dash plugs the same shade brown... gonna continuity check it later...