The 7M Stinger Thread

[IJ.]

Quick Q: Are you seeing any IGN event in the ECU software on cranking?
(sorry if this has been answered already but I don't have time to review the entire thread)

 

[hottscennessey]

Thanks Figgie, I'll check it out. I have a diode laying around, and I can see how much resistance is on that one so I can see if it's about the same. that should give me a vague idea if my wiring is doing the trick, right?

IJ, the ECU doesn't have a gauge or button for an ignition event (that I know of), but I can see that the injector signal is being sent, and the software is setup as Aaron's is. I held the #1 plug wire to a ground, and moved the CPS by hand and noticed there was no spark, but I could hear the injectors. I'm going to source a working ignitor (soon i hope) so i can see if thats the problem.

BTW, the CPS is getting a signal to the ECU and seems to be accurate, but its the same crappy one that I've re-wired twice, is there any chance that this could be part of the problem, or is the CPS's job done after it gets the signal to the ECU? I don't think its related, but just thought I'd mention it.

 

[hottscennessey]

I was reading another thread and read that the injectors will not fire if the ignitor is fried, is that so?

 

[figgie]

hottscennessey

for your question. No. The timing is what dictates when the fuel gets injected and when the ignition gets lit. Some ECU can control when the injector starts and stops. The ignition timing is what dictates when the spark event happens.

quick q
Did you find a base map to start from?

Otherwise

http://www.enginemanagement.com.au/showmap.php?id=41

for the 1jz. Yes I know the stock is 1jz is seq. This makes it wastefire. the only thing I would do is knock the dwell down to 2.125ms instead of the 3.5ms as the 7m coils do not require that much dwell.

 

[hottscennessey]

Okay, great. I was hoping the problem could still be ignitor, as that would probably be the simple fix.

I got the basmap from Aaron, so the dwell should be fine, but I'll definately try it out.

Q: The is normally sensing a 5v signal from the ECU, correct? It there any way to tell how many v's the Stinger is putting out?

I tried setting my multimeter as a voltometer, and connected it to a ground, and the IGtA wire, but I saw almost nothing, a few volts run through when I turned the igntion switch on, but nothing when I was cranking (yes, the stinger was getting an RPM signal). Am I missing something here or should I be seeing possitive voltage spikes/drops when I do this?

I got a CPS from a fellow supramania member today, I'll plug that in and see if that changes anything (I know it probably wont, but you never know).

 

[jetjock]

With the stock ecu no spark will result in no injection. I dunno much about the stinger but I'm assuming it doesn't require IGf from the igniter. As for IGt you should be measuring it referenced to +12. Measuring it referenced to ground won't get you anything because IGt is an active low signal ie; it is ground.

The coil packs are a type of transformer. They have a primary winding and a secondary winding. The secondary winding is connected to the spark plugs while the primary is connected to the igniter. It's the primary we're concerned with in this case. It's nothing more than a coil of wire. One side of the coil is connected to 12 volts when the key is on and the other side is connected to the igniter. The igniter provides a ground to turn the coil on. It's when the coil is turned back off the spark occurs. To measure IGt going into the ignter you should connect one lead of your meter to 12 volts and the other to IGt. An led is another one way to monitor IGt when cranking. You can use a 12 volt test light across the coil pack primary to check the output of the igniter.

 

[bigaaron]

The stinger has a 5v logic level output that is compatible with the 7m ignitor. Make sure the standalone is set to falling edge for the trigger. I would put my money on a wiring mistake causing the problem. The ignitor is easy enough to test, and it works independently of the fuel injectors on the stinger. If you hear injectors clicking and the tach works when you crank it, then there should be ignitor outputs working from the Stinger also. If you can't figure it out then I could make that diode circuit up and label the wires, or you could go with an aftermarket ignition like a MSD DIS-4.

 

[hottscennessey]

Thanks for the info JJ

Aaron, you're right, I can't understand it being either the wiring or the ignitor, there is nothing else that really fits into the equation. I'll give it a few more days, and if I can't figure it out then I'll shoot you a PM for that circuit I really appreciate it.

 

[IJ.]

Aaron: Dis-6?

Hott: Time to strip it all out and start again from scratch, you've missed something.

On average there are 400 odd connections/steps in fitting a standalone missing ANY single one will stop things dead

 

[jetjock]

No problem. Usually when someone needs help with aftermarket stuff I'll chase down an online manual and study it but since Aaron has such a handle on this gadget I didn't see a need to do it. I'm sure with his help you'll get it figured out. I agree it sounds like a wiring issue.

 

[hottscennessey]

Progress.. I replaced the CPS and the stock tach moves, and when I stop cranking there is actually a backfire, and it sounds like it wants to start. Then my battery died.

 

[hottscennessey]

Just thought I'd update here again, No I couldn't get the car to start. Yes I know one reason why. Wether this is the only reason it wont start.. I dont know (but I hope!).

I am getting a spark from the coils for wire 1+6, 5+2. I am not getting a spark from the coil for 3+4. This is because in my harness I made for the IS300 coils, the trigger wire for the 3+4 coil is grounding out. I narrowed it down to the harness, so this should not be a problem to correct. I'll update after I get the time to re-wire.

I also snapped a wire off my harness side CPS connector, luckily I grabbed that conector off a supra at the junkyard 2 summers ago.. I don't even know why I did it, but I'm happy I did!

 

[hottscennessey]

blah, getting spark to all cylenders, I can't get this thing to start. I'm getting backfires... one gave me 19.2 PSI of positive manifold pressure.. that worries me. Ignition timing off? I've played with the CPS like crazy.

 

[figgie]

you have something set incorrectly

backfire means the ignition event is happening after the exhaust valve opens. Try to set the CPS how you normally would using the TSRM.

 

[hottscennessey]

Figgie, thats how I orignially set it, as per TSRM. Is there a different way? Maybe I also screwed up the wires to the coils when I was doing the IS300 mod.. I'll have to look up the wiring diagram.

Off the top of my head, I believe I have the black wire going to the 1+6 coil, the green wire going to the 3+4 coil, and the white wire going to the 2+5 coil, and then the "ground" wire going to all of them, of course. Does anyone happen to know if thats right?

 

[hottscennessey]

I assume this diagram is for the engine harness side? I'm not seeing those wire colors at all http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=Main&Page=040

 

[bigaaron]

Don't overcomplicate things trying to use the is300 coils right now.

It is a 12v ignition wire that is common to all the coils, if it was ground nothing would happen.

 

[hottscennessey]

Yea, I'm still on the 7M coils, I just have to use that harness that I already hacked up.

Yea, its the 12v wire to the coils, I just called it "ground" because I couldn't remember.

 

[figgie]

Figgie, thats how I orignially set it, as per TSRM. Is there a different way? Maybe I also screwed up the wires to the coils when I was doing the IS300 mod.. I'll have to look up the wiring diagram.

Off the top of my head, I believe I have the black wire going to the 1+6 coil, the green wire going to the 3+4 coil, and the white wire going to the 2+5 coil, and then the "ground" wire going to all of them, of course. Does anyone happen to know if thats right?

ummm

if i am reading the schematic right

from ignitor to coils

it is

Black-Orange (goes to positive fused)
Light Blue - Red
Light Blue Yellow
Yellow

 

[hottscennessey]

weird, its not like that on my car. I'll have to double check when i get back to my house.