The 7M Stinger Thread
- Thread starter hottscennessey
- Start date
Do you have spark?
The base map that is loaded might not even be for a 6cyl.
Crank trigger needs to be set to 720deg, 24 teeth with sync. Load the Chaser basemap and you should be close. It might be too rich if you have 550cc injectors. Set the crank and sync trigger to rising edge. Set the ignitor output to falling edge, and set it to 3 ignitors.
PM sent :icon_wink
The base map that is loaded might not even be for a 6cyl.
Crank trigger needs to be set to 720deg, 24 teeth with sync. Load the Chaser basemap and you should be close. It might be too rich if you have 550cc injectors. Set the crank and sync trigger to rising edge. Set the ignitor output to falling edge, and set it to 3 ignitors.
PM sent :icon_wink
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Thanks Aaron, I set the CPS as per the PM you sent me, and my stock tach still isn't moving. I checked my wiring and it's all straight. Sounds like my ignitors not getting the signal, huh?
I'm taking out my spark plugs and letting my engine clear, because its definately flooded. I can smell fuel out of the exhaust.
I'm taking out my spark plugs and letting my engine clear, because its definately flooded. I can smell fuel out of the exhaust.
If it was getting spark it would probably backfire after you cranked it a few times, even if the plug wire order was wrong.
Did you load the basemap I sent? That is for 550cc injectors.
Did you load the basemap I sent? That is for 550cc injectors.
Thats what I was thinking Aaron. I loaded the map that you sent.
Wedge.. I'm running the IS300 coils, I guess I could try and hook up the stock coil packs and see, but if I'm not getting spark the problem is probably in my ignitor wiring (because I'm not seeing tach output). At least thats my guess. PS, I already looked over my ignitor wiring, but I'll check with a multimeter tomorrow.
Wedge.. I'm running the IS300 coils, I guess I could try and hook up the stock coil packs and see, but if I'm not getting spark the problem is probably in my ignitor wiring (because I'm not seeing tach output). At least thats my guess. PS, I already looked over my ignitor wiring, but I'll check with a multimeter tomorrow.
Ah, ok. This is probably a silly question, but, do you use Allan's(?) ignitor wiring diagram with all the diodes? If so, are they positioned correctly, in regards to cathode and anode ends? (I know it's probably a redundant question since you said it was checked, but I figured I'd ask).
WeDgE said:
You are probably right on the money there Wedge.
Make sure to check that the diodes were installed so that the white line on the diode is positioned like the line in the diode symbol. It's easy to make a mistake there.
Yea, I was actually really carefull about that, and I'm 99% sure the diodes were facing the correct way (there was even a diagram on the box from radioshack). I'll take another look at that today.
Now I'm really lost. Everything looks right, I left the spark plugs out overnight to clear of any leftover fuel. Same thing, not even a backfire.
Edit: Stuck on 7M coilpack, and no change.
Edit: Stuck on 7M coilpack, and no change.
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first guess
ignitor is toast
2nd guess, how exactly did you attach the diodes to the ignitor? Temp controlled solder station?
ignitor is toast
2nd guess, how exactly did you attach the diodes to the ignitor? Temp controlled solder station?
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Ignitor very well could be toast, you never know, but I've never had a problem with it.
No, no temp controlled solder station. I think you're right with the 2nd guess. I guess I got them too hot? Whats the best technique to attach the diodes?
No, no temp controlled solder station. I think you're right with the 2nd guess. I guess I got them too hot? Whats the best technique to attach the diodes?
hottscennessey said:
I set my soldering station to 650f-700f and it stays there. If it takes you more than 3 seconds to flow and attach with solder, you probably did fry the diodes and or the the soldering iron is not hot enough and hence takes longer to heat up what you are trying to solder, not a good thing as tin, copper and aluminum all transfer heat extremely well into the silicone.
Before even thinking about soldering any component though, I always make sure it is free from any grease or oil. I tend to wipe down the legs of components with a rag that has some laquer thinner on it (toluene for the win!!). Then do a quick test to see how the solder adheres to the legs. If they have plating on it you will notice as it will beadup instead of flow on the leg. This is NOT a good solder!!!!
have any pictures of the soldering job?
Dont be. I had to have my soldering job inspected for 4 years in the AF So I learned all the tricks to a good soldering job. At first no way it was that nice.. hehe
So I learned all the tricks to a good soldering job. At first no way it was that nice.. hehe
Does the ignitor have good power and ground? You are using the stock coilpack right? Don't overcomplicate things trying to use the is300 coils right now. Your multimeter should have a diode test function. The diodes are not being soldered directly to the ignitor, right?
The ignitor has the same power and ground as it had with the stock ECU, so I'm assuming so. Correct, diodes are not being soldered into the ignitor. I'll check out the multimeter.
Oh yea, and something to note.. the multimeter shows that the diodes are only allowing current to pass in the proper direction, but I can see that the diodes cause a noticable amount of resistance, is that normal?
Oh yea, and something to note.. the multimeter shows that the diodes are only allowing current to pass in the proper direction, but I can see that the diodes cause a noticable amount of resistance, is that normal?
hmmm
well i see blurry blobs...blobs in soldering is never good
<-- will take a look at my harness but I think the wire has a silver/tin coating on it which take a HELL of alot of heat to make the solder adhere too.
well i see blurry blobs...blobs in soldering is never good
<-- will take a look at my harness but I think the wire has a silver/tin coating on it which take a HELL of alot of heat to make the solder adhere too.