The 7M Stinger Thread

[5uprahboy]

Thanks for all that JJ!

Yeah thanks again for all your help.

suprra_girl is bringing me over some plugs tomorrow night so I'll be able to wire the igniter and coils in :biglaugh:

Then I've got to wire in the fuel pump relay, attach the IAT sensor and wire that in, then thats it

Will have most of the wiring finished this week, and should have it finished by sat avo.

I'm so excited!

 

[5uprahboy]

Right well, I plugged everything in, set the IG timing, cranked her over, and she just backfired out the intake. After mucking around with the timing I managed to get it to idle, but it was still coughing and farting out the intake and backfiring out the exhaust too. I checked the coils, and number 2 seems to spark twice normally, and the 3rd time its a long spark. I will double and tripple check everything tomorrow.

 

[5uprahboy]

SPARK VIDEO

 

[bigaaron]

Did you make sure the diode circuit is wired correctly to the inputs of the ignitor?

Usually when it runs, but backfires, you have the firing order wrong. Check the order of the spark plug wires, it's easy to make a mistake.

 

[5uprahboy]

Did you make sure the diode circuit is wired correctly to the inputs of the ignitor?

Usually when it runs, but backfires, you have the firing order wrong. Check the order of the spark plug wires, it's easy to make a mistake.

Hey,
I will check the diode wiring tomorrow. I was so certain that I had it right tho

Man I'm sick of wiring LOL

 

[5uprahboy]

OK HELP!

Aaron, I've done the wiring for the diodes as you suggested. All seems to be fine - BUT, the resistance between the ECU plug and the igniter plug (with diodes in between) is the same for all 3, IGT, IGDa, IGDb - of around 700 (ohms??) is this normal??

The diodes I've used are 1N4004. The have MIC written on them too. Are these ok?? If so, why so much resistance??

 

[5uprahboy]

Right - well I got it to start but its coughing and spluttering out the exhaust and sometimes a little pop out the intake.
I assume its ignition timing, but have not had a chance to put a timing light on it.

My question is, each coil fires twice per crank rotation. If I have the CPS/Dizzy at 180 degree's off, will the car still run?

 

[5uprahboy]

Well FINALLY I got it going.

As I didn't know what I was doing a lot of the time (yes yes, joke if you must), I finally got my car to run with the Stinger.

I have a bit of an oddball, bastardized setup; 1G engine, 7M igniter and coils, 1JZ IAT sensor, 7M injectors - think that's about it - oh not forgetting the Audi turbo and wastegate

I give thanks to Aaron @ Driftmotion for his help over the entire process, plus everyone here at supramania! Suze (suprra_girl) for the wonderful brainstorming sessions and constant confusion and of course my Gabi for putting up with having a lounge looking like this: http://www.supras.co.nz/pics/ecu/wires.jpg hehe

Next step, play around with timing then trailer it up to the dyno - not before replacing valve stem seals with the head in place though - JOY! hah!

Thanks for listening, see you round soon

 

[bigaaron]

WOO HOO!!!

 

[5uprahboy]

WOO HOO indeed! It's been a long day coming I tell ya!

Aaron - a question about "static" timing and setting the timing up properly.
When I set the CPS so that with a timing light the timing on the crank shows 10degrees BTDC, the ECU software shows something like 25degrees!

If I lower it by changing some of the ignition map settings, the car stalls....

What am I doing wrong?

 

[bigaaron]

WOO HOO indeed! It's been a long day coming I tell ya!

Aaron - a question about "static" timing and setting the timing up properly.
When I set the CPS so that with a timing light the timing on the crank shows 10degrees BTDC, the ECU software shows something like 25degrees!

If I lower it by changing some of the ignition map settings, the car stalls....

What am I doing wrong?

1: Set the static timing to "locked" in the trims tab on the tuning screen.
2: Start the engine.
3: Check the timing with the timing light. Make note of the number.
4: Change the static timing to whatever you just saw on the timing light when it was locked. (Should be around 10 degrees on a 7m, and 5-6 degrees on a 1jz.)
5: Check the timing again, now the timing you see with the timing light should be exactly what you have set at whatever tuning point the engine is running at on the timing map.

Hold down the space bar while the engine is running, and the cursor will jump around real-time on the map to show you where you are at.

 

[5uprahboy]

1: Set the static timing to "locked" in the trims tab on the tuning screen.
2: Start the engine.
3: Check the timing with the timing light. Make note of the number.
4: Change the static timing to whatever you just saw on the timing light when it was locked. (Should be around 10 degrees on a 7m, and 5-6 degrees on a 1jz.)
5: Check the timing again, now the timing you see with the timing light should be exactly what you have set at whatever tuning point the engine is running at on the timing map.

Hold down the space bar while the engine is running, and the cursor will jump around real-time on the map to show you where you are at.

Thanks again.

When I change options, i.e. to locked, or to the actual timing number, do I have to go and "Write to ECU", or does it update the ECU on the fly?

 

[bigaaron]

You just need to hit enter so the box is not red.

 

[5uprahboy]

You just need to hit enter so the box is not red.

AH!!! Thanks. I thought it was silly I had to "Write to ECU" after every small change.

I cant wait to try it out tonight

 

[5uprahboy]

Great - works a treat - next question - injector time scale - I'm using 7M-GTE injectors - its set to 40 - is that right? What does this mean?

 

[bigaaron]

Almost everything you can imagine is covered in the help files.
From the help section called "injector scale" included with the software:

Injector Scale

The injector scale is used to set the resolution of each increment in the main fuel map.
Injector Scale sets the max fuel available .
half the scale number = the max milliseconds.
E.G. scale number of 40 = 20mS max injector opening @ 0% Fuel Map override
setting.

Note: As a guide, the injector time scale should be set between 10 and 30 when in multi point 360 mode and between 40 and 80 when in multi point 720 mode. If you find that you need to go above or bellow this range you may need to change injector size or there is a problem in the fuel delivery system.

See Injector Arrangement

Each load point has 0 - 255 increments of injector on-time. The Injector scale is used to calculate the number of milliseconds per increment and is used to set the maximum allowable milliseconds for the size of injectors being used.

IE: Larger injectors would require less milliseconds of on-time to supply the same volume of fuel that smaller injectors would require. This means that the injector scale value determines maximum injector on-time attainable.

You can determine the maximum on-time by dividing the injector scale by 2.

This example applies to TPS and Vacuum load points.
EG: By setting the injector scale to 20 the maximum allowable injector on-time will be 10 milliseconds (20 divided by 2). This means that each increment for each load point will be 0.039 milliseconds (10ms divided by 255 increments).

The same principle applies to vacuum mapped load points when on the 0 Kpa point. At different load points the ECU varies the actual resolution to compensate for differing air densities.

 

[5uprahboy]

Almost everything you can imagine is covered in the help files.
From the help section called "injector scale" included with the software:

Oops - sorry.
Next question. I have a pretty bad miss. The warm idle seems to be around the 800rpm mark, but I dont have an air/fuel gauge so the mixture could be off.
When I rev the engine it misses a fair bit and is slow to pick up the revs. When I hold it above idle, say, around the 1300rpm mark, it misses and has the odd "pop" out the exhaust. Could it be because all the injectors are firing at the same time, so there's quite a bit of un-burnt fuel getting into the exhaust?

 

[bigaaron]

If you don't have a wideband, tuning it yourself will be difficult. It's best to either get a wideband or take it to a dyno that has one.

 

[5uprahboy]

I realise I wont be able to get it perfect, in fact I'm not even going to attempt to tune it for driving. I just wanted to get rid of the miss, so I can be 100% sure everything is wired up properly before towing it to the dyno. I dont want to spend an hour driving up there only to be told "it's not wired up properly" haha

 

[5uprahboy]

Small update

Changed the plugs, richened it up by about 4 percent - runs really well. Havent driven it yet, but free revving it in the drive it sounds perrrrfect.

IF I take it for a drive, I wont be boosting without a dyno tune thats for sure

Thanks again