CBatstone;1589830 said:
cool, mine was a tight fit when new, only after a few heat cycles did it come loose.
T61 Bolt on Turbo by Cx Racing
- Thread starter Steve_N
- Start date
cool, mine was a tight fit when new, only after a few heat cycles did it come loose.
I'm getting ready to install mine, and I'm just curious what anybody did about the four bolts for the elbow to attach to the turbo housing? It doesn't come with any, and it seems darn near impossible to pull the bolts out of the stock turbo without stripping them.
:aigo:
Mike
:aigo:
Mike
Hey guys, he had a little boost leak and a bad cps. I still think he's making more power now but not sure he hasn't dynoed. The said the car is night and day and the tuner said he made mid 400's but I don't believe it until i see it. I raced him in my aristo which made 390 WHP and 395 tq and traps 108 down the 1/4 and beat him.
I still think his car is lazy told him he's got to check the wg flapper, we'll see how it goes. I want to get hard numbers from him in the form of a dyno sheet, and see if the wg is fracked.
My buddy is happy as hell right now on the car.
I still think his car is lazy told him he's got to check the wg flapper, we'll see how it goes. I want to get hard numbers from him in the form of a dyno sheet, and see if the wg is fracked.
My buddy is happy as hell right now on the car.
idlewild9;1595751 said:
Good point,
Forgot to mention there is no place to bolt the dip stick up to, mines floating about at the moment.
could weld a nut to the turbo core, I'm not all that fussed about it atm.
I plan to take mine back to the tuners in the next few months to ramp it up to about 22psi, see if i cant crack 500rwhp.
Just picked up a R154, still need to source a twin plate, replace cooler piping and maybe fit a 3-4bar map sensor. (using 2.5bar atm)
My Responsiveness has picked up ALOT but there is still room for improvement as i still have a small boost leak i need to fix.
I manage to loose traction in 1st, most of 2nd and top of third however I'm not complaining
What kind of new lines did you have to buy? The t61 is oil cooled only and says you have to buy new lines but idk where or what to buy?? And what would I do with the stock water lines??
I'm gonna solve all your problems right now Drew. There are a couple of guys on ebay that post "universal oil lines, 7MGTE." DON"T BUY THEM! The oil lines you need are on this uplink.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...r_id=117706548358&ua=WVI7&itemid=380254548351
Simply go to Schucks/O'Reilleys and buy some tubing for radiator blow off. They fit snug onto the exit and return ports.
Thats all you need to do. The setup is relatively simple (I did the re-install in less than three hours, and I'm STUPID!, and the car should run like a champ for ya!
Any other questions, feel free to PM me, and I'll be happy to send you some pics of the build! I'd post em on here, but I'm just about computer retarded, and don't know how to make show up on these forum postings!
Mike
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...r_id=117706548358&ua=WVI7&itemid=380254548351
Simply go to Schucks/O'Reilleys and buy some tubing for radiator blow off. They fit snug onto the exit and return ports.
Thats all you need to do. The setup is relatively simple (I did the re-install in less than three hours, and I'm STUPID!
, and the car should run like a champ for ya!Any other questions, feel free to PM me, and I'll be happy to send you some pics of the build! I'd post em on here, but I'm just about computer retarded, and don't know how to make show up on these forum postings!
Mike
idlewild9;1599403 said:I'm gonna solve all your problems right now Drew. There are a couple of guys on ebay that post "universal oil lines, 7MGTE." DON"T BUY THEM! The oil lines you need are on this uplink.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...r_id=117706548358&ua=WVI7&itemid=380254548351
Simply go to Schucks/O'Reilleys and buy some tubing for radiator blow off. They fit snug onto the exit and return ports.
Thats all you need to do. The setup is relatively simple (I did the re-install in less than three hours, and I'm STUPID!
Any other questions, feel free to PM me, and I'll be happy to send you some pics of the build! I'd post em on here, but I'm just about computer retarded, and don't know how to make show up on these forum postings!
Mike
NO! if you're talking about blocking off the coolant lines for the turbo, its apart of the cooling system it needs to be bypassed not blocked off, connect both outlets via a hose, see below
look at the coolant line
And as for that ebay oil kit, it looks alright with the flanges but id prefer to know what the actual hose is made out of, at least it returns to the block and not the sump.
You must've misread my posting. I didn't say anything about blocking off the Coolant lines. I said to buy some tubing for radiator blow by. Here's what mine looks like....
Completed Project
Completed Project
Another cheap way to solve the "sticky" wastegate. When I bought mine, the wastegate would occasionally get stuck when it would actuate. Fixed that issue!
Aircraft maintenance... Who knew it would work so well on vehicles also?!
Aircraft maintenance... Who knew it would work so well on vehicles also?!
idlewild9;1599903 said:Another cheap way to solve the "sticky" wastegate. When I bought mine, the wastegate would occasionally get stuck when it would actuate. Fixed that issue!
Aircraft maintenance... Who knew it would work so well on vehicles also?!
What exactly did you do out of curiosity? Can't really tell from the pictures, Looks like you cut off the side of the flapper support, Mine kept getting jammed on the disc that covers the waste gate hole not on the actual arm, Did you have any movement in the assembly like mine?
Sorry misread your earlier post, i get it now
My cars off the road ATM, fitting a R154 and a twin plate then ill be shooting for 500rwhp @ low 20's boost. Highest ive taken it so far is 18psi and there is very minimal change in the charge temp from on/off boost which is a good sign
Those are pretty awesome additions! In the pictures I showed how to solve the flapper door problem with safety wire. Simply take .40 gauge safety wire and tightly twist it in between the flapper and its counter-part. Simplistic and sturdy, and the flapper door will never get stuck again! I just fired up the car this morning with the new electronic boost controller and it sounded kinda rough. Though my wideband showed my air-fuel ratio as being just fine, the car was only pushing about 8.5 psi on the settings I had. Still got a few kinks, I guess!
Very nice car by the way, hopefully our setups can withstand the test of time... HAHAHA!!
Very nice car by the way, hopefully our setups can withstand the test of time... HAHAHA!!
Would have done nothing to correct the OP's Flapper issue....idlewild9;1599915 said:Those are pretty awesome additions! In the pictures I showed how to solve the flapper door problem with safety wire. Simply take .40 gauge safety wire and tightly twist it in between the flapper and its counter-part. Simplistic and sturdy, and the flapper door will never get stuck again! I just fired up the car this morning with the new electronic boost controller and it sounded kinda rough. Though my wideband showed my air-fuel ratio as being just fine, the car was only pushing about 8.5 psi on the settings I had. Still got a few kinks, I guess!
Very nice car by the way, hopefully our setups can withstand the test of time... HAHAHA!!
idlewild9;1599928 said:
Because his bushing was loose in the housing so the entire arm was moving, your piece of wire would have done nothing.
SupraSean;1607141 said:
Mine didn't, i used a bit of 3" silicon which slipped over the accordion and the inducer, i used a silicon gasket maker to seal it from dust etc (its under vacuum anyway not boost), if you had a accordion hose in good condition i'm sure it might fit. I plan to replace it with 3" piping as soon as I can be bothered working on my car (too cold here
)