Project Git 'er done!: Stages 1, 2…now 3.

[supraguy@aol]

So...I started playing with the fuel resistor bypass mod, and I just wanted to make sure I was doing the right thing:

Here's the offending part, with the body harness connection that we need to bridge, right?

So, I did this:

And replaced the relay assembly with something cleaner:

Does that all look right?
If so, next stop is the fuel tank.

 

[CyFi6]

Or just snip the yellow wire and unplug the resistor. Without the yellow wire the relay can't energize.

 

[supraguy@aol]

I had read that some people were removing the relay entirely.
Didn't know about that for sure. But with the resistor's body plug effectively bridged as I have it, I should get constant 12 volt to the pump, yes?

 

[CyFi6]

Yeah the way you have it will work fine too, just leave the relay in there. If you want to pull the relay you need to jump the blue/black wire to the black/red wire.

 

[supraguy@aol]

Thanks for that info!

 

[supraguy@aol]

So today, I did indeed get into the fuel tank.
Dropped it out, and started dealing with the fuel pump upgrade.

Dirty tank:

The pump hanger with the Walbro pump I installed about 8 yrs ago:

Inside looks pretty good to me:

Since I read that the Aeromotive Stealth pumps don't like to work through small, old wiring, I wanted to do a full wiring upgrade.
With that in mind, I drilled out the rivet connections holding the factory wiring in place at the in-tank ground, in-tank power, and external ground and power connections.

The oem power line through the cap is a neat arrangement of two discs of what I believe are porcelain or ceramic material, with an o-ring between them to keep it airtight, with a brass terminal on the inside:

After drilling it out, I found that a #8 fastener would fit through the original hole, so I bought some stainless pieces.

Also, after reading a bit about I.J. suggesting teflon-coated wire for in the tank(as well as seeing that the Aeromotive wire was also Tefzal), I decided to use it. Problem was, the stuff that came on the Aeromotive plug wasn't very big, and I didn't see the point of using 10 gauge wire outside the tank, if it was going to have to narrow down to ~16 gauge inside the tank. The other problem was finding some. Then I realized- this is aircraft-rated wire. I work with aircraft mechanics. So, I just rolled up to work, and took my pick of the wire I wanted, since they had every gauge conceivable. I just had to de-pin the spade connectors from the plug, and re-crimp the larger wire in. Problem solved.
Aeromotive wire vs. my new wire:

Then I drilled out the original groundpoint rivet hole, and used an m6 fastener:

The ground outside the tank on the top of the cap is now also m6.
I've already tested all the connections, and made sure that there's absolutely no continuity of the power terminal to ground.
Next, I just have to finish up a bit more of the external wiring to the new relay, and the fuel mod is done. It'll be a little while till I can reinstall the tank, however; I've found that I have rust holes through the spare tire well floor in three different places, so I'll have to do some cutting and welding first.

 

[supraguy@aol]

Oh yeah-
Here's the assembled product:

 

[supraguy@aol]

PS- I found out that my Walbro wasn't actually a Walbro.
Apparently, I fell for a fake Walbro on Ebay. Regardless, it ran like a champ!

 

[supraguy@aol]

So tonight, I just did a little bit of wiring work.
Here, you can see the two finalized connections to the pump itself. Also, you can see how the original plug has been wired up as the trigger input to the relay:

I put a grommet through the original fuel door, where all four wires will pass through:

And this is a stainless bolt that I secured through the sheet metal, for the pump's ground point:

Next, I will reinstall the pump assembly, and push the tank to the corner of the garage. Then it's time to begin cutting out the spare tire well.
Not looking forward to that repair.

 

[supraguy@aol]

Received my JZA70 front lip today, looks to be in pretty good shape.
I thought it was coming from the Middle East, but it actually shipped from just north of Tokyo.
Relieved that I actually got it, and it was in good condition, as the Ebay seller had zero sales feedback at the time that I bought it.

 

[Grandavi]

That's a used one? Nice find!

 

[supraguy@aol]

Yeah, no cuts or gouges in the plastic, and only one tab that's broken.
And even that is just a break in the mounting hole, not a missing or torn tab. If I'm able to find the ducts that attach to it later on, great, but I'm not too worried about that.

 

[supraguy@aol]

A quick pick of the rust in the tire well. I have to find a donor car in the area that i can get this from.
I cut a piece of plywood into a circle, and mounted it to the hold-down for the spare, and marked off the cut line.
This way, i can do the same thing to the donor car, and end up with exactly the right depth on the new piece to weld in.
I hope.

 

[CyFi6]

Nice work, good idea on the plywood jig

 

[ATL88Supra]

i have to do the same thing lol

 

[supraguy@aol]

Then you and I both need to find shells!

 

[1986.5supra_kid]

There is a donor car in sc Anderson call ed Powell's I need help getting the dash out of it. So maybe we can work out something while your in the area

 

[supraguy@aol]

We'll have to see.
I'm thinking about going up to Gainesville and cutting one out from the teal '92 that i got the front bumper from.
Apparently, it's still there, a year later.

 

[1986.5supra_kid]

one more post supraguy and your apart of the 3000 post group of guys lol

 

[supraguy@aol]

Nah, i think i'm good at 2,999.









Doh! Damnit!