It takes about 1-2 minutes for the stock ECU to go closed loop after a cold start, so your observations seem correct.
Planning 2014 Standalone Upgrade - Question...
- Thread starter Grandavi
- Start date
I don't think I have ever driven my car in the rain. I want to take it out to break it in.., but I had such a botch if a time getting it onto the driveway...
Saturday or Sunday I will finish the break in.
I really want to see this lady dyno'd
Put a vid of the engine running (engine bay and twin tip HKS exhaust) up.. http://youtu.be/iCDXmjIK_K0
Saturday or Sunday I will finish the break in.
I really want to see this lady dyno'd
Put a vid of the engine running (engine bay and twin tip HKS exhaust) up.. http://youtu.be/iCDXmjIK_K0
Last edited:
They had 4 months to go over everything.. lol. I had aftermarket red silicone vacuum hoses, they are all gone, all the hoses under the hood are new (even the accordian). The hard pipe was a pleasant surprise, the guy who welded it did an excellent stitch, very clean.
All in all, this cost me a lot more than I wanted to spend, but so far, Im very pleased. Very curious what type of power the engine is putting out. Put on the Nashman shortshifter (very nice throw) and new bushings and my first to second "hard" shift has disappeared.
Oddly, the transmission vibrates (you can feel a "buzz" in the shifter). Not sure what would cause that, but it can give my hand pins and needles if I hold the shifter too long. Used to have a vibration, but not a buzz type vibration. Been running it through my head and cant think of what would cause it. No noise.. just can feel it in the shifter.
Damn HDS coilovers are for young kids though... every dip is more of a thump now.
All in all, this cost me a lot more than I wanted to spend, but so far, Im very pleased. Very curious what type of power the engine is putting out. Put on the Nashman shortshifter (very nice throw) and new bushings and my first to second "hard" shift has disappeared.
Oddly, the transmission vibrates (you can feel a "buzz" in the shifter). Not sure what would cause that, but it can give my hand pins and needles if I hold the shifter too long. Used to have a vibration, but not a buzz type vibration. Been running it through my head and cant think of what would cause it. No noise.. just can feel it in the shifter.
Damn HDS coilovers are for young kids though... every dip is more of a thump now.
Yeah that's been my concern with suspension rebuild plans. Most new options seem to be on the harsh side. :/
Regarding the vibration. I don't think that's unusual. The stock shifter vibrates significantly, which is why toyota put a rubber dampener in the stock shifter. Id guess with any aftermarket option without the dampener you would feel a lot of buzz.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Regarding the vibration. I don't think that's unusual. The stock shifter vibrates significantly, which is why toyota put a rubber dampener in the stock shifter. Id guess with any aftermarket option without the dampener you would feel a lot of buzz.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
ahh, I think the rubber dampener was removed because the bushing was a little high. Think I may have to get a new one and just shave the bushing.
Possible you may be running the really squishy fluid filled motor mounts. The allow the whole drivetrain to move around too much IMO. Is this when you are accelerating? During wheelspin? All the time? It could be your exhaust just touching the tranny, had this myself once. But constant and none stop "sharp" vibration should be looked at. Doesn't seem entirely normal too me.
I have the Martin Crawler Urethane Shifter bushing and a new cap bushing for the shifter in there, and the old rubber one is not. I think the rubber one absorbed vibration whereas the urethane once doesn't, so I have to add in something to absorb some of the "buzz". However, if I can't, at least I dont have the hard 1st to 2nd shift anymore... that solved it. I could actually race someone from the line now whereas before, it would take me a bit to get from first to second as I had to force it.
(the bushing was intended for my W58, but I put it into the 88's R154.. supposedly they are the same size)
(the bushing was intended for my W58, but I put it into the 88's R154.. supposedly they are the same size)
Well, at 14 psi boost, the car is doing 300 rwhp and 367 max torque. Fuel goes pig rich at 3600 RPM.. so now I see why a standalone system is desirable. There is no real way for me to control this at present... I can tune the boost with the controller somewhat, but overall, if I want true performance... its the only option. Damn fast on the road as is with that mega torque.. but the engine has a lot more potential than where it sits...
time to start pooling money again...
time to start pooling money again...
Last edited:
very nice numbers! mine makes similar power and its great having all that torque, makes it very easy to drive.
Grandavi;1914303 said:Well, at 14 psi boost, the car is doing 300 rwhp and 367 max torque. Fuel goes pig rich at 3600 RPM.. so now I see why a standalone system is desirable. There is no real way for me to control this at present... I can tune the boost with the controller somewhat, but overall, if I want true performance... its the only option. Damn fast on the road as is with that mega torque.. but the engine has a lot more potential than where it sits...
time to start pooling money again...
Did you tune the fuel pressure according to the TCCS fuel trim?
(aka set your AFPR and read Vf on diagnosis plug socket)
Hmm, what dyno was this done on? That seems a tad low for a 57 trim at 14 psi. Those numbers are almost achieved by a stock ct26 at 14 psi.
Rollus;1914404 said:
All-in-all, everything from the motor mounts up has basically been rebuilt/replaced. The 550s and Lexus AFM were installed by the shop that wrote the book on the Lexus AFM upgrade. However to be honest, I have no idea what was done to "tune" it. Not sure what dyno it is, but the sheet says dynojet research. You'll have to forgive me, I know very little about the dynos themselves. This is a new world for me, I always considered tuning a young-man sport for someone who really wants to dive deep. My car has very little room for any tuning because its only a wideband (which is basically a gauge) and the LIPP Lexus AFM (which is a screw setting). The only thing electronically that I can adjust is the boost curve through the HKS EVC-S. I dont want to run any piggybacks in between, but will eventually go standalone for true tuning.
The farther I walk into the world of "performance upgrades" the more I see understanding the "tune" is critical. For now, I am taking baby steps to prevent any death of engine. Happier having it run rich than run lean. At least I can work on correcting that as opposed to saying "oh shit".
as for the dyno, I was looking for more of a 340-380 at the wheels, but Reg wasn't at the shop and I didn't have the boost controller manual for the setup. So.. its back to the shop for a bit...
Something is up - I make around 450 wheel at 13 PSI on my car. Bigger turbo etc. and 11:1 AFR, but still... you should be in the 360 to 380 range at 14 pounds.
Too much fuel, less power.
As soon as TCCS goes open loop, it's dumping fuel.
You can probably reduce fuel pressure if you don't want to screw the afm screw tune. Try to read Vf with a voltmeter..
As soon as TCCS goes open loop, it's dumping fuel.
You can probably reduce fuel pressure if you don't want to screw the afm screw tune. Try to read Vf with a voltmeter..
grandavi, we have very close to the same mods. my vf is happiest near 38 psi static fuel pressure iirc. i can check it again if needed.
Now, how are you controlling your vf. My Lexus AFM screw is all the way in and 1 turn out currently (haven't tested voltage yet as I dont have the car) and I have to check my AFPR (I dont think changing anything on there will make much difference other than risking leaning out a bit). Your build looks very similar to me, but I'm missing something. The only way (without adding anything) that I can see controlling my car is to add a piggy back or go stand alone. The screw is the only AFM alteration that I can think of. Although I understand the principal, and I know what I want to do, I am not certain how to achieve it properly yet. As for FunkyCheese's HP, I think I could tweak my way up to that (not that high though with current setup) if I was stand alone, but just running TCCS it will stop me from doing that because it will relearn whatever I do. I'm reading and trying to grasp the "lie" part that the Lexus AFM does to the TCCS to allow for a leaner mixture.
Im going to be doing this slowly because I want to understand exactly what is happening before I do it, as leaning the fuel is not what I consider safe to do if I screw up.
Still wrapping my head around it... Not sure I want to turn down my fuel pressure quite yet.
Also trying to see what my boost controller will do and I think part of the problem is the stock bov. I am limiting myself to 12 psi for now until I get this all worked out.
was just reading that the AFPR and the AFM screw both have to be adjusted to as close to factory settings as possible with the upgrades installed. I am assuming that the vF line voltages are what dictate if this is occuring correctly.
Now I just have to figure out the correct way to achieve that.. (am I right?)
Im going to be doing this slowly because I want to understand exactly what is happening before I do it, as leaning the fuel is not what I consider safe to do if I screw up.
Still wrapping my head around it... Not sure I want to turn down my fuel pressure quite yet.
Also trying to see what my boost controller will do and I think part of the problem is the stock bov. I am limiting myself to 12 psi for now until I get this all worked out.
was just reading that the AFPR and the AFM screw both have to be adjusted to as close to factory settings as possible with the upgrades installed. I am assuming that the vF line voltages are what dictate if this is occuring correctly.
Now I just have to figure out the correct way to achieve that.. (am I right?)
Last edited:
Well what you want to do is this, turn out the afm screw all the way or even as much as go mid way. After that you'll want to hook up a multimeter to your vf/e1 ports in the diag box in the engine bay. Switch it over to dc volts and look at the voltage, you want the voltage to be 2.5. My car runs 14.7 afr even WOT til about 3400 rpms then the car goes over to open loop and that's when the afr's dip over to 11.0 and stay there for the most part.
Now this will be a joint effort between the afm screw and your static fuel pressure to get the vf happy. The happier the vf signal is, the less the ecu is trying to compensate for to keep it in the afr range it wants. Now my lex afm screw is still unaltered, it still has the cap covering the screw, so all I did was play with the fuel pressure with vacuum still attached while reading the vf.
The TCCS will not alter anything in open loop mode, this is why most people with a SAFC that know what they're doing, they don't even bother with anything under 3600 RPM's. The TCCS in open loop and WOT basically opens the injectors all the way, which is why the cars run close to 10.0 in the AFR's and why most people will back off the static fuel pressure a few psi. That way when the car does go open loop, it's not receiving as much pressure in hopes to pull the afr from 10.0 to 11.0
If someone sees a mistake in this, especially regarding the location of the afm screw, please correct me. I have no personal experience with tuning with the afm screw as my afm screw cap is still on.
Now this will be a joint effort between the afm screw and your static fuel pressure to get the vf happy. The happier the vf signal is, the less the ecu is trying to compensate for to keep it in the afr range it wants. Now my lex afm screw is still unaltered, it still has the cap covering the screw, so all I did was play with the fuel pressure with vacuum still attached while reading the vf.
The TCCS will not alter anything in open loop mode, this is why most people with a SAFC that know what they're doing, they don't even bother with anything under 3600 RPM's. The TCCS in open loop and WOT basically opens the injectors all the way, which is why the cars run close to 10.0 in the AFR's and why most people will back off the static fuel pressure a few psi. That way when the car does go open loop, it's not receiving as much pressure in hopes to pull the afr from 10.0 to 11.0
If someone sees a mistake in this, especially regarding the location of the afm screw, please correct me. I have no personal experience with tuning with the afm screw as my afm screw cap is still on.