Need help with 1.5jz build

[pbasil1]

Damn man you work way too quick! Im lucky if i could do all that in 2 months... But i have to buy tools as well as parts for all this. I want/need an air compressor and air tools before i can start all this work... I want a sand blaster to clean the parts before repainting them too...

Anyways, im looking forward to more pics bud!

 

[suprahero]

I didn't take any pictures of the engine sitting in the bay because I had to go to work. I'll get one tomorrow and I'll try to take one of where the wastegate and downpipe are going to run.

I had to order a 2.5" 90degree elbow for the turbo today. I won't be able to use the 90 degree coupling I was using because it's right up next to the manifold. I also ordered a 2jz waterneck, bypass tube and a cam sensor. The wires pulled out of one of them when removing the motor. I also had to order a 2jz serpentine belt. That adds up to another 150.00, but who's counting...............:aigo:

Dave, the title change was my idea. I was talking to Duane and he asked if you ever worked on your car, and I answered honestly and said "no"......:biglaugh:

I told him that you had been working on your truck lately, and he asked if I had seen him change your title. That's when I suggested he change it to what it is now. It's all in good fun and I know you have a sense of humor so he changed it.

We (you and I) get back from Texas on the 23rd. I'lll be driving up to your place on the 26th. That gives me a few days to catch up on my Vixen lovin before I leave out again............:naughty:

 

[csnow]

Good stuff Jay.....

 

[noah89t]

found this for you jay on wikipedia
1.5JZ-GTE

The 1.5JZ is not a production engine but is created by combining a 1JZ with a 2JZ bottom end. The 2JZ bottom end will simply bolt onto the 1JZ cylinder head.

* 1JZ = 2.5L Inline 6 (86.0mm bore x 71.5mm stroke)
* 2JZ = 3.0L Inline 6 (86.0mm bore x 86.0mm stroke)

Using a 2JZ bottom end with the 1JZ components allows an extra 500cc of displacement.

Reasons for this conversion is a matter of opinion and discussion. Some claim a 1JZ head flows better than a 2JZ, however this is unfounded as of yet.

What is known is that the 2JZ head compared to the 1JZ head has more restriction in the 5th and 6th cylinder exhaust ports due to an S shaped casting. The 1JZ also has different shaped combustion chambers which, when directly placed on a 2JZ block, increases the compression slightly and leads to a power increase when using unworked heads. Once worked (ported and chambers reshaped, valves resized) the heads have been proven to flow much the same.

The most likely reason for the setup would be if the owner of a worked 1JZ engine suffered from bottom end failure or if they wanted the extra displacement and torque of the 2JZ bottom end, as the heads are interchangeable.

 

[upgradedsupra]

That's all well and good, but did your thread title change? I think not.

I can help but think that Jay (Suprahero) is a bad influence on me. :rofl:

Duane

 

[ivboost]

Thats right, the 1j heads bolts onto the 2j block. But when you overlay the 2j gasket on the 1j head you will notice that the oil supply port does not line up, what many people over here do is weld up the port on the head then re-drill it on the angle so the ports line up and therefore your heads gets the required oil flow, other people run the risk and more often than not pay the price.

 

[suprahero]

I went with the 1jz head gasket after much debate. I don't know of one person over here that welded up the block or the head, and I haven't heard of one person having catastrophic failure either. I'm willing to live with my decision because I trust the people that I talked with on this matter.

Here are a couple of pictures. I just got the pressure plate today, so now I have everything I need to install the transmission. I have a brand new 1jz lightened flywheel, slave cylinder, clutch master cylinder, braided clutch line, clutch disk, pressure plate, Red line MT90, so my clutch problems are a thing of the past. When I took my old flywheel off, I noticed it was warped. You can see where the pp was only catching in certain spots. I hope to have all of this installed tonight before the rain comes. It's going be colder here tomorrow, so I want to get it all done today.

Gotta go get greasy. See ya later alligator.

 

[csnow]

Why didnt you go straight 2J Jay? You could have sold the 1J cams and manifold and used the same harness.

 

[suprahero]

I guess I still have that option, but I like the 1jz head and I've already had it ported and polished and I knew I could get it all done before the Texas meet. If I want to change it later, which is highly unlikely, I still can. I gave my 1jz cams away about two weeks ago, unless you are referring to my Crower cams. Thanks.

 

[IJ.]

Was the deck flat?

 

[suprahero]

All I had to lay across it IJ was a six foot 2 x 4 and it looked fairly straight.............:biglaugh:

I seriously looked at it as close as I could without taking it back to the machine shop to have it inspected and everything looked good, and the head is sealed on it tight. If it has a bhg or a leak when I start it up, I'll make sure not to post about it, because I can only handle so many "I told you so's":biglaugh::biglaugh::biglaugh:

 

[IJ.]

<fingers crossed> only takes a thou to leak J

MHG's while a good thing aren't deformable so it needs to be 100% flat/true to seal.

 

[noah89t]

it should be okay. "crosses fingers"

 

[suprahero]

I can't do anything about it now but cross my fingers too. I pulled the 1jz out like that last time and I didn't have a problem so I'm hoping for the same results.:x:

 

[IJ.]

I'm just a worrier

 

[LilMissMkIII]

*fingers crossed*

And YAY for more pics! :boobies:

Hope you get everything done before the rain Mister!

 

[ivboost]

This is what soarer21 from TOYMODS wrote and pictured

Bypass pipe length difference

Water outlet difference. Sorry for blurry pic, dodgy camera

Oil feed area of headgaskets. 1J on top, 2J on bottom

1J head, oil feed area

2J head, oil feed area

2J block, oil feed area

1J block, oil feed area

1JZ head with oil feed section welded up, and re-drilled at angle so the 2J feed hole in block is met.


Now, it may not be 100% required to do this as someone has already said they didnt and its running however, if you look at the block areas and the head etc it is highly likely that an oil feed issue will occur without doing this as the high pressure feed is very close to the edge if you do the swap and no changes. I looked at the water jacketing for a while prior to proceeding with the conversion and I couldn't see any reason as to why any other changes might need to occur.

 

[rakkasan]

When I took my old flywheel off, I noticed it was warped. You can see where the pp was only catching in certain spots.

So ends the clutch mystery. I won't say I told you so....:sarcasm:

Good stuff Jay

 

[suprahero]

Sound ends the clutch mystery. I won't say I told you so....:sarcasm:

I told you so Jay

I thought you weren't going to tell me so............:nono:

Mr. Boost, in the picture with the water outlets, which one is the 2jz? The longer one or the shorter one? I know the bypass tube is longer on the 2jz. Thanks for the post.

 

[suprahero]

No updates on the build, but I do have pictures. This is definately the most snow my car has ever seen. This is the reason I can't work on my car today. We're under a severe blizzard attack.............:biglaugh: