My 1JZ Thread - trials and Tribulations

[bigaaron]

If the power cuts out completely then the battery is dead or the cables are loose. Is the alternator charging the battery when it is running? Did you check with a volt meter that the voltage rises when it is running? If not, you probably killed it with all the starting and running the engine.

 

[mattjk]

yup, you must have a corroded ground cable on your bat or something. get a battery terminal cleaning brush. Check all your other grounds... I checked all my grounding points with a meter, and the head had 6 ohms of resistance, so I added an extra ground to the intake manifold.

 

[bobiseverywhere]

ah ok i'll check that.

i have worked on cars before just have not done much. Plus Electrical stuff on cars is not my strong point lol. this is my first engine swap.

Stupid me i already took the starter off. I wonder if i can get it back on without haveing to move the engine lol


I didn't check to see if the alt was charging the battery yet. I have a TT that shows what its getting on the 12V line. the TT shows 11.9V its pretty good battery. I will check to see about the alt once i get it going again.

I will check all my grounds clean them off plus check the ground for the battery and the terminals.

I have a multi meter, exactly how would i check the resistance of a particular ground??

 

[mattjk]

I have a multi meter, exactly how would i check the resistance of a particular ground??

put one end on the battery - terminal, and then the other probe on the ground point on the engine. meaure the ring connector first, and then meaure the bolt holding it on, and then the surrounding metal. This will tell you if you have corrosion by comparing the 3 areas.

 

[bobiseverywhere]

put one end on the battery - terminal, and then the other probe on the ground point on the engine. meaure the ring connector first, and then meaure the bolt holding it on, and then the surrounding metal. This will tell you if you have corrosion by comparing the 3 areas.

ah ok

thanks Mattjk,

I'll let you know how things go tomorrow

 

[bigaaron]

So my jumper harness is working with no codes! I also wired the abs and oil pressure sensor in so if you have the 7m sender in there the gauge and abs should work.

 

[bobiseverywhere]

Oh yes i forgot mention. The Oil pressure gauge seems to be working perfectly fine. The SS line that you sell is great. I haven't had a chance to test the abs yet lol.

I'll be happy to get the starter back in and test all the grounds. I do remember cleaning two of them. Plus making sure i put a clean bolt with them, but i will double check them all.

 

[bigaaron]

Did the alternator/battery lights come on when the car was running?

Does the transmission have the abs sensor in it?

 

[bobiseverywhere]

The Tranny does have the ABS Sensor on it. It's the one from my Car. The one from the clip i sold it also had the sensor.

There were no warning lights on what so ever. That being said i had a Battery go dead from a bad Alt, on my first supra. The light only came on when the battery was just about to die.

The battery i have was just charged up fully last night. It is a Gel Coil cell Battery. Not Optima Brand but Motomaster from Canadian Tire. I believe Optima OEM this Particular Battery for them.

 

[bobiseverywhere]

Well i found the culprit to the Power problem. I attached a pic. The wire is broken or somthing. If i move it the power to the car comes and goes. :3d_frown:

Of Course i have created another problem for myself. I am sure i will be able to deal with it tomorrow, but i knew my Tank Was low but i did not realize it was empty i ran it dry basically. Well just means the engine barley had anything to work with before. I got 5 gallons in. But now i can not get the engine to start :3d_frown: boy am i pathetic. It wants to start and just about goes but then it just stalls. I did install the HKS Gauge i have. Don't think i did anything to mess that up though

I put the Constant 12V on a line i found coming from the Hazard light Switch. The Illumination and Ignition i put on the Line coming from the Dimmer. Which i just found out you can not do I had the gauge working but did not have the dimmer switch attached. As soon as you light up the Dash the Gauge goes bye, bye ....lol guess i need to find those two lines elsewhere. Its my first gauge install as well. I am such a newbie.

 

[mattjk]

Do yourself a favor and buy some caig/cramolin contact enhancer and spray it on everything! including the fuses and it's sockets. There was one day my car didn't start, and it was due to corrosion in the ecu fuse socket. Baffled me for 5 mins, because I checked the fuse and it was fine... I even pulled it out and pushed it back in 3 times. Sprayed some cramolin in there and boom, started right up. Same thing with my hazzards and horn.

Weird things happen when the car sits for an extended amount of time, not to mention we got old cars!

 

[bobiseverywhere]

ah ok i will try to get some of that

 

[mattjk]

Cool, Johnathan1 just left my place. I soldered his CPS connectors because the original owner cut the plug off... but the car was still running a bit rough, so we disconnected every engine harness plug and treated it with cramolin. I swear it runs like a new car now. It is so smoooth

 

[suprahero]

Come on Matt, Alabama isn't that far away if you want to come help me with my 1jz..............:biglaugh:

 

[Brewster]

Cool, Johnathan1 just left my place. I soldered his CPS connectors because the original owner cut the plug off... but the car was still running a bit rough, so we disconnected every engine harness plug and treated it with cramolin. I swear it runs like a new car now. It is so smoooth

i just bought a can of that stuff. my car has all sorts of stupid electrical problems, it's sat for awhile...

 

[bobiseverywhere]

Well i found out what was causing my starting problem or atleast what i think it was

now i was getting no Codes. I have gone through almost everything. even when to the point of putting the old Plugs Back in.

At This point i finally had a check engine light come on, well at least when i could get the car running. But still no codes ??? Very odd

Then i realized after reversing through all the things i had done. I did not check the TPS. Disconnected it and the car started like a champ.

It was a bit hesitant on the throtle at first and still kinda is but my guess is that cause the TPS is not connected. Should i try to clean it or get another one. If i need another one where can i get it?

 

[bobiseverywhere]

The Engine seems to be hesitating when i push on the throtle. Is it just because of the TPS no being connected? Obviously i see that it's running super ritch. you can smell it in the exhaust.

Aaron: The eratic Idle is some what freaky but i trust you. i take it the 1J should idle at the same point as the 7M ans 2J 650 - 800 RPM

So far my idle has been from 1000-12000 RPM and my HKS Gauge is showing -0.5 on Vacum. Is that what is should be? From what i remember thats where ti should be but i thought i would ask and double check

 

[mattjk]

yes, you DEFINATELY neeed the tps working

 

[bobiseverywhere]

i know i need it. I was just curious of the repercussion of working on the car right now with out it and having the engine run. I will take it off to see if i can clean it.

I did try reconnecting it and running the engine. It when back to it's original issue of 2000 - 2250 RPM idling

when its disconnected i am at 1000 -1200 RPM

how many hot - cold do i need to do before i can expect the norm out of the engine? To get rid of any carbon, condensation, just to have everything working right. I will have some injector cleaner in the tank (Red Line)

 

[bobiseverywhere]

Well

Things have improved with changing the O2 sensor.

It still is hard to get the engine started from cold. Takes quite a few tries. I am not to sure why? Does the 1J not have a cold start inj? It's not exactly super cold out 5'C aprox 40'F

I still have my Idling issue. I fiddled with the TPS and got the idle lower. Now with it connected i can start the car and it will idle at 1100RPM. I am still getting back firing when i rev the engine Over 3K or if i open the throtle to much.

Here is a link to a small video. The sound is a bit off. But if i hold the throtle steady at aprox 2K You can here the Waste Gates on the turbos opening and closing again. Almost in a rythum. Is this Normal? It's like the turbos are laoding up, and then discharging, just from holding the throtle

http://www.bobiseverywhere.com/images/supramania/1jzbuild/dec18/MOV02742.MPG

This is the First 1J i have ever seen in person so i don't know much of what to expect.