MickyG's MX-73 to 7M-GE Swap

[IHI-RHC7]

Well, as I see it, You're going to be looking at several machining costs.

1.) Number 5 is 1 thou too small for even the smallest toyota bearing. You will need a crank grind to pull all journals down .010" to get them all into spec.
In the US, that's around $85

2.) I would recomend measuring the inside of the big end of the rods. If the bearing did spin, the rod will need to be resized to accept a standard bearing.
Again, $10-$15 per rod.

3.) The block main bore should be line honed to ensure that all inner diameter's of the "tunnel" are precisely the same, so that the aftermarket bearings will all fit properly against the machined crank.
A line hone is around $50 out here.

4.) The over-bore costs around $12.50 per hole out here, so that's $75.

5.) The deck of the block should be resurfaced to remove any pitting from the toxic green coolant and bimetal engine.
~$30 X2 for the head as well...

6.) The block should be tanked as well, to remove all grease and build up in the water jackets.
-$30
7.) Magniflux the crank, block, rods to check for cracks, Probably $50 for all of that.

So you should be looking right around $400 for all machining costs If you leave no stone unturned. If the rods don't need to be recon'd then you could save $60 or so from that. Bearings are around $100 for the set with thrust washers. A piston and ring set can be had for around $250. And a full gasket set is roughly $175.
So you can be done, out the door for around $900
Ouch...

 

[mickyg]

Big ouch!!! All things being equal (and they usually aren't) with just the exchange rate, that's about $1300!

The car cost a bit less than twice that!

Time to start trimming costs.

1. Don't need a head gasket so subtract gasket kit and add misc gaskets, valve seals, etc... Say maybe $100?
2. Slight chance the block and head won't need to be surfaced but that's a rediculously small chance. Subtract $60.
3. Small chance that the spun bearing didn't actually do any damage but it sounds like that cost is neglegable.
4. Possible my measurement for no5 was wrong so I'll need to check that again. Subtract $85 if I'm lucky.

So that leaves me with $250 - $900 or $650, which equates to about $930 Aussie dollars! Still ouch! And that doesn't include the fact that I'm definitely going to need to have the rod journals on the crank done...

 

[mickyg]

Some random pics

 

[IHI-RHC7]

Those cam journals are beautiful!

 

[mickyg]

two more of cam and valve deposits

 

[IHI-RHC7]

Valves = grotesque, but the cams still look nice...

 

[mickyg]

Yeah, the valves are pretty nasty. Glad the cams meet your approval!

 

[Allan_MA70]

you need my 7m-gte better find space

 

[mickyg]

I re-measured no5 (main journal) and it's not what I originally stated. I must've gotten the edge of an oil hole or something. At any rate, it's pretty much the same as the rest of the journals.

The rod journal (or "pin" as it's referred to by Toyota) for number 6 is toast though - I measured 2.0375" and the rest are at about 2.048" 2.0375" is just slightly bigger than max undersize.

Jake, you mentioned the rod needing some work to accept the right bearing. Is it a bad idea to only undersize one of the 6 journals?

 

[mickyg]

you need my 7m-gte better find space

If it was just the motor, I'd find and/or make space! It's the rest of the half cut I don't have room for.

 

[mickyg]

This Week

Finally got around to getting at least one estimate on machine work. Thanks for the tip Ian!

All told, it'll cost around $650 for everything except decking the block, cleaning the head and an align hone on the block. So there's still the possibility of more $$$ to part with.

I'm a bit disheartened by that much money having to be invested before I even purchase parts but I guess it's actually a pretty good deal, from what I understand.

Now, how to make money fast...:evil2:

 

[mickyg]

Not much excitement this week, I'm afraid. I tore everything down off the block and head and finally dropped it by the machinist to have it cleaned, decked, shaved, honed.

Turns out I work in the same industrial court as a race fabricator and engine/machine shop! The machinist is a bit of an old timer but very familiar with the 7M so it's a good combination. He doesn't do cranks so he's got the head and block at the moment.

He had a quick look at the block and didn't think the cylinders looked bad enough to require a rebore - a hone should tell us if that's the case.

Anyway, should have some pics up, as soon as things are finished!

 

[BosoMKII]

Wow what a project! Sorry its going to cost so much. Cars are like that. Just take your high estimate and add 20%! ahahah

 

[mickyg]

Very true! I'm getting off pretty lucky so far - the cleaning and resurfacing are costing me very little. The crank work will be fairly expensive and the bearings/rings/gaskets will add up I'm sure.

And that doesn't account for the other bits and pieces I'll need before trying to put the engine back in!

I still don't have a solution for simple things like throttle linkages. I've got a manual engine so only one linkage. I'll no doubt find what I'm looking for before too long though - how hard can it be to find an auto linkage?

Right now, I just want to get the engine rebuilt and tidy! The rest can wait till I get to that point.

 

[mickyg]

Today

Just picked up the head and it looks great! All cleaned up and resurfaced. There's a bit of corrossion around the water jackets but otherwise, everything looks OK.

Pics sometime in the next day or so.

 

[miggles]

what auto linkage are you after? the one that joins on the throttlebody?
or the shifter one?

 

[mickyg]

The one that attaches to the throttle body. I was thinking I'd fashion something out of the 5m one but they're pretty dissimilar.

 

[mickyg]

PICS

Clean but still needs some internal scrubbing and a few odd 'n ends.

 

[Allan_MA70]

you will find the 5m throttle body will bolt on! should be the same size too!

i think more should of come off that head, looks a bit nasty around the coolent passages still, being an NA you can get away with taken more off with the added bonus of a little more compression just make sure the locating dowels are not to long and trying to lift the head

 

[mickyg]

Lifting the head would suck! I'll investigate that a bit further. I don't know how much was shaved because I forgot to ask... The block's being decked as well so a bit higher compression is going to be the result, one way or another.