any suspension work is a huge bitch, keep in mind that when the car was designed it was limited at 155 so every one of those bolts is a grade 8 tourqued down by he factory to hold up under those kind of stresses plus all the water/salt/dirt that those bolts came into contct with and your probably gonna want to get either an air gun or a nice long cheater bar.
Lucy - Im home!
- Thread starter Facime
- Start date
- Status
Finally made some progress on the stereo installation. Head unit was already in as were the 3 pairs of 4" coaxials (4" dont really fit in the rear shoulder location, without mods, but I eventually got an acceptable mounting).
A week or so ago I took out most of my interior and ran all new Tsunami speaker wire from all 6 locations. I also ran a 4ga hot line back to the rear of the car. Yesterday I built the box that would house my 12" Infinity Reference, and today I cut to fit the new floor. My plan all along was to give up the spare tire location for the sub, and make the amps and wiring mont under the stock flip up false floor. I figured out today that wasnt going to work exactly like I hoped, but with a slight mod I should be able to make it work and look almost like stock.
Here are some pictures of what I have done so far.
_____________________________________________________
The octogon box sitting in the tire well. The box is precisely figured for 1.25 ft^3 volume.
_____________________________________________________________
My cardboard template for the new floor.
____________________________________________________________
New floor installed, sub placed for angle, floor screwed to sub box.
________________________________________________________________
Rough in of wiring
_________________________________________________________________
Amp placement, partial wiring.
Yeah I know my amps dont match and they are mid grade at best. Someday if and when I can afford them I will go with higher end amps. Total investment right now including NIB Kenwood head unit, 3 pairs NIB Kicker ds40's, Used Infinity Reference 1242W DVC Sub, used Pioneer 600.4, used Bazooka 300.2 and new Verge 400.1 amps, plus Stinger and Tsunami wires, wood materials, glue, screws, zip ties, and misc other supplies - under $450
Total RMS power just under 800w. I have all the hard items done this way, and when I want to upgrade its real easy.
So tomorrow I have to take everything off the board, carpet it, remount everything, finalize the wiring, Secure the floor to the car, put back in the stock false floor, and button up the rest of the interior. That shouldnt take too long. I'll add some more pictures on here after I finish.
A week or so ago I took out most of my interior and ran all new Tsunami speaker wire from all 6 locations. I also ran a 4ga hot line back to the rear of the car. Yesterday I built the box that would house my 12" Infinity Reference, and today I cut to fit the new floor. My plan all along was to give up the spare tire location for the sub, and make the amps and wiring mont under the stock flip up false floor. I figured out today that wasnt going to work exactly like I hoped, but with a slight mod I should be able to make it work and look almost like stock.
Here are some pictures of what I have done so far.
_____________________________________________________
The octogon box sitting in the tire well. The box is precisely figured for 1.25 ft^3 volume.
_____________________________________________________________
My cardboard template for the new floor.
____________________________________________________________
New floor installed, sub placed for angle, floor screwed to sub box.
________________________________________________________________
Rough in of wiring
_________________________________________________________________
Amp placement, partial wiring.
Yeah I know my amps dont match and they are mid grade at best. Someday if and when I can afford them I will go with higher end amps. Total investment right now including NIB Kenwood head unit, 3 pairs NIB Kicker ds40's, Used Infinity Reference 1242W DVC Sub, used Pioneer 600.4, used Bazooka 300.2 and new Verge 400.1 amps, plus Stinger and Tsunami wires, wood materials, glue, screws, zip ties, and misc other supplies - under $450
Total RMS power just under 800w. I have all the hard items done this way, and when I want to upgrade its real easy.
So tomorrow I have to take everything off the board, carpet it, remount everything, finalize the wiring, Secure the floor to the car, put back in the stock false floor, and button up the rest of the interior. That shouldnt take too long. I'll add some more pictures on here after I finish.
Last edited:
I wish I had a 12 and not a 10, then I might ask you for a blueprint of the octagon! 
Looks good man!
I need to figure out where my car leaks in the back, then configure a sub and amp holder setup for my trunk. It doesn't look too good in the rear seat
Looks good man!
I need to figure out where my car leaks in the back, then configure a sub and amp holder setup for my trunk. It doesn't look too good in the rear seat
yeah the octogon was the the hardest thing to work out. I needed a certain volume, but at the same time I needed it to fit within the well, and not stick up too far. In the end I was able to get something of a "somewhere in the middle" I could have gone a touch bigger around, and a tad shorter, but it actually worked out ok. I did have to cut out the tire mount bracket and pound down the center of the well a little. but I intend to "Peel n Seal" the whole back end as well anyway. I need to tone down the Flowmaster a tad! LOL
Well, the weather has been shitty, first snow, then freezing rain. I'm working outside so my progress was slowed down a bit. I managed to finish the install finally today. Tried to fire it off and had no sound from the front. checked the Fuse on the amp and it was blown. Replaced the fuse and it blew again. I had two of the same Bazooka amps so I swapped out the amp. The second amp started smoking and had that wierd burned electrical smell to it. So obviously those 2 amps were junk.
Oh well I just went back to the original way I had planned to run it, which is the door speakers off the A channel of the Pioneer, and both sets of rears off the B channel. Turned it on, tuned for a while and decided I was happy with it. after about 5 minutes though my front channel started cutting out above a certain volume. Then that volume kept getting lower and lower, untill I had nothing coming out of the front again. Then the deck started turning on and off...I was like ..."WTF?!"
Battery turned out to be drained. HAHA, I drained my brand new battery in about 10 minutes of use! Note to self: dont run stereo without engine running!
So Im very happy with the end result. The system hits extremely hard! The only thing I can say bad about it is that Im kind of missing some punch in the 100Hz to maybe 300hz. The 4's just dont go down that far and the sub doesnt sound as good crossed over that high. So I will be looking to switch out the front doors for 6.5" pods and panels sometime. The overall install looks great and is completely stealth. The floor looks pretty much stock and I retain the space for my WeezLWing and targa top. My travel tools still fit where I normally put them, and other than having no spare tire, I retain all the storage I had before.
So here are some more pictures of the end result.
Oh well I just went back to the original way I had planned to run it, which is the door speakers off the A channel of the Pioneer, and both sets of rears off the B channel. Turned it on, tuned for a while and decided I was happy with it. after about 5 minutes though my front channel started cutting out above a certain volume. Then that volume kept getting lower and lower, untill I had nothing coming out of the front again. Then the deck started turning on and off...I was like ..."WTF?!"
Battery turned out to be drained. HAHA, I drained my brand new battery in about 10 minutes of use! Note to self: dont run stereo without engine running!
So Im very happy with the end result. The system hits extremely hard! The only thing I can say bad about it is that Im kind of missing some punch in the 100Hz to maybe 300hz. The 4's just dont go down that far and the sub doesnt sound as good crossed over that high. So I will be looking to switch out the front doors for 6.5" pods and panels sometime. The overall install looks great and is completely stealth. The floor looks pretty much stock and I retain the space for my WeezLWing and targa top. My travel tools still fit where I normally put them, and other than having no spare tire, I retain all the storage I had before.
So here are some more pictures of the end result.
Last edited:
buckshotglass
I love all your sounds.
Very nice work! I just read everything. This thread makes my head spin with things I need to do.:aigo:
I like that. I'm am now on the lookout for an extra hood to play with. I have a mig...:naughty:
I like that. I'm am now on the lookout for an extra hood to play with. I have a mig...:naughty:
buckshotglass said:
Oh well definately if you have time, a mig, any kind of reasonable body work skills, and a spare hood you can do one of these yourself. If you dive into one let me know, I can give you a couple of hints.
My work on Lucy is pretty much down to the major stuff so she gets a little less attention these days. I dont like working on her in the winter anyway. When I get to TX I suspect the 2.5 car garage Im going to have at my disposal will help.
Today was a beautiful day in Oregon. Im looking forward to a few more of these.
Weez,
I got a couple questions for you relating to your very first post when you got Lucy.
Did you ever figure out if fuel cut was causing you to pull code 34 or was it something else? I'm hitting fuel cut, but the code came on before I even hit fuel I think...
Also, do you remember what size the coupler is for the throttle body to 3000? Mine's getting really crappy and I'd like to just get a nice looking silicone coupler for it instead of another stupid looking stock one.
I got a couple questions for you relating to your very first post when you got Lucy.
Did you ever figure out if fuel cut was causing you to pull code 34 or was it something else? I'm hitting fuel cut, but the code came on before I even hit fuel I think...
Also, do you remember what size the coupler is for the throttle body to 3000? Mine's getting really crappy and I'd like to just get a nice looking silicone coupler for it instead of another stupid looking stock one.
kylefoto said:
Code 34 is fuel cut. I was able to get rid of it by opening up the AFM a little (with the bypass screw adjustment). For the coupler you can just use a 3". its probably a little big but will clam down fine. I just used one of those ones you can get from Autozone. Im going to redo all my couplers when I put in new IC pipes.
I was thinking about either doing the AFM mod or getting a MBC. I'm at like 12 psi right now.theWeezL said:
Yeah, we had looked at Autozone when we were doing my BHG fix and they didn't have jack shit. I'll probably order one from driftmotion.
Thanks for the info weez!
Well, in addition to the motor build Im working towards, I got several items from KevinM today. Smoke front lens covers, a hatch visor, and a tail light cover.
Taillight cover will be 3E5. Sunvisor and signal covers are going to stay smoked for now. Im trying to avoid 3E5 overload. Ive decided to also paint my mouldings, and Im seriously debating doing them 3E5. Its either that or Satin Black to match the hood. I will probably try some photochops to help me decide.
My turbo is in shipping, Im ordering my wideband and AFPR on Monday. I have decided to do a bit more to Lucy than I originally thought. I have decided to pull the motor and trans. I will be doing at least a headgasket and a bottom end inspection. I am going to be shimming the actuators on my trans.
So, I suspect Lucy will be out of commish for a week or so, but will come out a new fiestier redhead, with a new look and some new HP to go along with it.
Stay tuned ...
Taillight cover will be 3E5. Sunvisor and signal covers are going to stay smoked for now. Im trying to avoid 3E5 overload. Ive decided to also paint my mouldings, and Im seriously debating doing them 3E5. Its either that or Satin Black to match the hood. I will probably try some photochops to help me decide.
My turbo is in shipping, Im ordering my wideband and AFPR on Monday. I have decided to do a bit more to Lucy than I originally thought. I have decided to pull the motor and trans. I will be doing at least a headgasket and a bottom end inspection. I am going to be shimming the actuators on my trans.
So, I suspect Lucy will be out of commish for a week or so, but will come out a new fiestier redhead, with a new look and some new HP to go along with it.
Stay tuned ...
Turbo. Targa. Life.
SupraMania Shirt Slinger!
Weez, man, that false floor setup is really nice. I was a bit dissapointed to see you went the route of using the tire well, until I found out that you had actually built a box inside of it! Looks really good, and hopefully sounds equally good!
Turbo. Targa. Life. said:
Yeah I thought seriously about just capping the tire well, but I was already using mid grade components elsewhere so I decided to make sure the Sub was tight. It pounds...HARD! Its already too loud before it ever thinks about distorting.
the only thing Im lacking is some good mid bass drivers. Im planning on upgrading the doors to 6.5's so that will help, but I was thinking about putting another pair of 6.5's in the rear quarters. Dunno, for now it sounds sweet and I got more important things to worry about and spend money on.
OK, time is running low, Im building a few hoods right now (including re-doing my own, Im changing the cowl, and adding a NACA duct over the intake.) but Im getting antsy to get some new parts installed on Lucy. Here are a few teaser pics of the parts going in.
_______________________________
Hard to believe this is close to $800 worth of parts. Been sitting on most of these for a couple of months. Restraining myself from putting each one in has been hard, but I want to do it all at once, and only after Ive replaced the HG and put in ARP hardware.
_______________________________
Used Greddy PROfec B-specII (thanks frdfocussvt)
_______________________________
Used SAFCII (thanks 89Turbo!)
_______________________________
Used Denso 550cc injectors (thanks Bigzavs)
_______________________________
SSac T4 manifold
The turbo timer I got basically for the cost of shipping, Im gonna have to make my own harness for it. The AFM I picked up off Craigslist for a steal! Poor guy had no idea what it was.
I have a T4 Turbo sitting here as well but Im going to polish it and redo the oil lines for it, so its out in "my shop" (lol, my shop consists of a gravel parking area beside my sisters house.) I will upload a pic of that after Im done.
Im going to start tearing down the second weekend in Feb and Im allowing 2 weeks for the build which will include a new HG, but also a bunch of cosmetic stuff. Im going to strip and polish a set of NA valve covers, do a coil pack relocate, polish the upper intake, put in all new IC hard pipes, and clean and polish the underhood paint. A few other ideas will likely hit me while Im under there.
Thats all for today. Thanks for tuning in.
Oh yeah...anyone in the NW have a hoist and engine stand they want to loan me for a couple of weeks?
_______________________________
Hard to believe this is close to $800 worth of parts. Been sitting on most of these for a couple of months. Restraining myself from putting each one in has been hard, but I want to do it all at once, and only after Ive replaced the HG and put in ARP hardware.
_______________________________
Used Greddy PROfec B-specII (thanks frdfocussvt)
_______________________________
Used SAFCII (thanks 89Turbo!)
_______________________________
Used Denso 550cc injectors (thanks Bigzavs)
_______________________________
SSac T4 manifold
The turbo timer I got basically for the cost of shipping, Im gonna have to make my own harness for it. The AFM I picked up off Craigslist for a steal! Poor guy had no idea what it was.
I have a T4 Turbo sitting here as well but Im going to polish it and redo the oil lines for it, so its out in "my shop" (lol, my shop consists of a gravel parking area beside my sisters house.) I will upload a pic of that after Im done.
Im going to start tearing down the second weekend in Feb and Im allowing 2 weeks for the build which will include a new HG, but also a bunch of cosmetic stuff. Im going to strip and polish a set of NA valve covers, do a coil pack relocate, polish the upper intake, put in all new IC hard pipes, and clean and polish the underhood paint. A few other ideas will likely hit me while Im under there.
Thats all for today. Thanks for tuning in.
Oh yeah...anyone in the NW have a hoist and engine stand they want to loan me for a couple of weeks?
- Status