low oil pressure

Bri7man

Bri7man

"Yeah! Take the lemons.."
Jul 17, 2009
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northwestsupra;1402000 said:
well it looks like its time for a compression test. also dont forget to check your filter like i said. these items are cheap. so far bottom end is looking great to me
Click to expand...

Okay so it took me about an hour and a half to get my filter off because I refused to remove my lower IC... but I was successful!! It's my second oil filter I had the first one on for a week after my machined head/block for reference. I didn't remove my pistons when I had this done so some small shavings were present but I would think the first filter picked up all of those.

My bottom end is really starting to make some chattering noise at idle I noticed before i drained my oil.

I tore open my filter with tin snips and I found some small metal particles/shavings.
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Now is it okay to do the compression test with no oil? I have a brand new compression tester I've never used yet.
 
Bri7man

Bri7man

"Yeah! Take the lemons.."
Jul 17, 2009
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CyFi6;1402079 said:
You had your engine machined while it was still together and then didnt bother to even clean it before putting it back in the car?
Click to expand...

Well I cleaned it thoroughly with a air compressor at 80psi for about 2 days shooting it in every nook and cranny. Still in some places in the head very very small particles were probably left behind as the oil could have held it in there.

The pistons were clean didn't have a spec and still the head was probably 95% particle free.

I'm pretty sure the particles in the pics are from what just recently happened.
 
Bri7man

Bri7man

"Yeah! Take the lemons.."
Jul 17, 2009
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My #5 spark plug won't come out and I even sprayed it with wd40 let it sit then blew it out with a air compressor. I'm twisting so hard my socket extension is bending. Is there a safe way to get it out w/o it breaking?
 
CyFi6

CyFi6

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Oct 11, 2007
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Be careful, sometimes its just better to leave in in there than it is to risk breaking the spark plug in the head or worse stripping the threads out of the aluminum.
 
hvyman

hvyman

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Apr 17, 2007
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hope you have oil in the engine when you do a comp test. the more you run your car with rod knock the worse it gets.
 
Bri7man

Bri7man

"Yeah! Take the lemons.."
Jul 17, 2009
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Is it okay to do a compression test with No.5 plug still in? I think I'm going to need it to soak overnight to remove.
 
northwestsupra

northwestsupra

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Sep 19, 2006
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i always did a compression test with all the plugs in besides the one that you are going to test. the other thing is when you do your test is to make sure that you have the EFI fuse pulled "dont want the car to start" let it turn over 4-5 times record the information. do this 3 times per cylinder to insure an accurate reading. and like the person above said make sure you have oil in the engine dont want to make damage. if you end up with a low compression cylinder add a tsp of oil to the cylinder, or if you have a squirter add a clouple of squirts and check again, if it raises up then you have a ring problem. as for the 5th cylinder just keep soaking it, personally i use other stuff more than WD-40 but that will work. if all else fails you can try to tighten it a little i mean very little, it just needs to budge, then loosen. and i know alot of people wont agree with me on this, but a very low pressure impact might be the trick. im talking like 50psi on a 90psi max gun, just so you get the hammering effect. but that is a last resort next to finding a way to take out a broken plug :p
 
Bri7man

Bri7man

"Yeah! Take the lemons.."
Jul 17, 2009
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Cool I just got home from school so about to head to the garage. Thank god you posted I even read about the efi but if I did end up getting the plug out I definitely would of forgot....

Anyways I'll post results in a bit.
 
I

IJ.

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northwestsupra;1402706 said:
i always did a compression test with all the plugs in besides the one that you are going to test. the other thing is when you do your test is to make sure that you have the EFI fuse pulled "dont want the car to start" let it turn over 4-5 times record the information. do this 3 times per cylinder to insure an accurate reading. and like the person above said make sure you have oil in the engine dont want to make damage. if you end up with a low compression cylinder add a tsp of oil to the cylinder, or if you have a squirter add a clouple of squirts and check again, if it raises up then you have a ring problem. as for the 5th cylinder just keep soaking it, personally i use other stuff more than WD-40 but that will work. if all else fails you can try to tighten it a little i mean very little, it just needs to budge, then loosen. and i know alot of people wont agree with me on this, but a very low pressure impact might be the trick. im talking like 50psi on a 90psi max gun, just so you get the hammering effect. but that is a last resort next to finding a way to take out a broken plug :p
Click to expand...

1: ALL plugs removed, Throttle wide open, good fully charged battery, don't do any of these and the test is useless.

2: Worst "advice" I've seen here in a long time.... :nono:

Plugs have a very thin wall between the Hex and the threads an impact at any PSI will shear them off if the threads are at all tight, Some Champions used to shear just with hand pressure .
 
Bri7man

Bri7man

"Yeah! Take the lemons.."
Jul 17, 2009
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I ended up doing both. To a previous post;yes, I am religious about oil level.

I did a dry and wet test, 3 times each minus the 5th cylinder; I'm having serious issues with it not coming out. It's been soaked in wd40 overnight and still no luck.

The reason is a while back when there was oil in my inter cooler from prev owner, after I first started my car after the hg rebuild oil got in my cyls and fouled plugs. My buddy thought it was good idea to clean plugs with pool acid which ended up eating the finish off the plugs. Being the dumb ass I am I still installed them.
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Battery voltage at start was 12.50 and by the time I was at the 4th cyl voltage was a t 11.89 so I recharged to 13.15 and did the last cyl. So obviously this affected the test a bit but I think the results made it's point.

Anyways here is the compression test results:
Dry/Wet
1)135,137,136/152,165,168
2)147,148,148/155,157,159
3)166,166,169/180,182,179
4)166,168,169/183,182,181
5)pool acid is not a plug solvent...
6)170,171,172/182,180,181

I was also curious what rings are quality bang for your buck?

Edit,
Being the airhead I am I forgot to WOP and unplug cps, I did unplug efi fuse and Solenoid Resistor Connector tho. I used 1 teaspoon of 10w40 oil for wet test.
 
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northwestsupra

northwestsupra

New Member
Sep 19, 2006
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IJ.;1402805 said:
1: ALL plugs removed, Throttle wide open, good fully charged battery, don't do any of these and the test is useless.

2: Worst "advice" I've seen here in a long time.... :nono:

Plugs have a very thin wall between the Hex and the threads an impact at any PSI will shear them off if the threads are at all tight, Some Champions used to shear just with hand pressure .
Click to expand...

forgot bout the throttle open :( i think the supra is the only car i've ever had to do a compression test on yet. and i said as a last resort, when i say last i ment wayyyyyyyyyy last. if nothing else works last. as for the use of the impact
 
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