low oil pressure

[IJ.]

Nah I'm talking a LOT of the engines we got here back in the day were internally ALL sludge it was almost as if the engine had been filled with black axle grease.....

Another common practice back then was to hook a chain to the lift hooks lift the front of the car then just Oxy cut anything connecting it together so 9 times out of 10 all the accessories were stuffed... (at least they stopped doing that shit in the late 80's)

A bud here bought a Genuine 18000 mile 87 Mk3, the car is immaculate but the engine was a dog had the usual BHG and cracks in the deck being the light block...

He made it 8Km's from the buyers house before it popped the HG and he called me to come with a trailer and tow it home.

 

[Zumtizzle]

WTF you spun a bearing?!?!

 

[Bri7man]

WTF you spun a bearing?!?!

Yeah dude...

I have a problem with getting ahead of myself and doing things when I shouldn't be.
I knew I had low oil pressure, but the adrenaline hit and these fucking fools talking shit standing around their gt's and z28's staring at my car like its worthless and their american muslce is the best took me over the top.


I said heads up to the guy with the gt RUNNING HIS MOUTH like no other and acting his gt can smoke anyone saying how great it was. He was Mexican wearing all oversized clothes with his homies circling around talking so much shit slang sounding like dumb asses.

FFS the fucker asked if I WAS READY for something like this.....

I broke them, they couldn't even speak after i was done destroying their "hotrods", but I also broke my engine in the process.

In my eyes it was worth it, because I wanted to rebuilt my 7mgte with pistons and rods. This is my excuse to upgrade.

I know it was stupid, but I just had to do it. Dunno how else to explain it.

 

[Zumtizzle]

Where in L.A.?

Also if you need a good oil pump and new water pump LMK i got both laying around and will make a deal for both.

/shameful plug.

 

[Bri7man]

South LA, border of Torrance and palos verdes.

Really appreciate it bro.

First I gotta see what kind of damage this bearing did and what I can afford to do.

Sucks because this was my daily driver and I have school mon-fri.

So I'll be figuring out how I'm going to do this rebuild with virtually no cash and school.

Of course I want to upgrade to better pistons/rods but first I was wondering for those of you that have done this before what it costs and what my options are for this kind of thing.

Would upgrading pistons/rods with stock crank be obsolete? I can spend $500 safely but anymore is a stretch.

As of right now the damage is just a small squeak, still have steady rpm's no clunking and drives fine. No signs of harsher sounds with increased throttle yet just slightly more audible squeak. I got her home w/o using any boost and is still smooth.

But anyways lmk what rebuild options are and any info is really appreciated.

 

[Alec]

So then what makes you think you spun a rod bearing if all you hear is a squeak? That could be anything from a small animal to 20 yr old suspension.

 

[Zumtizzle]

South LA, border of Torrance and palos verdes.

Really appreciate it bro.

First I gotta see what kind of damage this bearing did and what I can afford to do.

Sucks because this was my daily driver and I have school mon-fri.

So I'll be figuring out how I'm going to do this rebuild with virtually no cash and school.

Of course I want to upgrade to better pistons/rods but first I was wondering for those of you that have done this before what it costs and what my options are for this kind of thing.

Would upgrading pistons/rods with stock crank be obsolete? I can spend $500 safely but anymore is a stretch.

As of right now the damage is just a small squeak, still have steady rpm's no clunking and drives fine. No signs of harsher sounds with increased throttle yet just slightly more audible squeak. I got her home w/o using any boost and is still smooth.

But anyways lmk what rebuild options are and any info is really appreciated.

Can you make a vid of said squeak or cut open a filter?

Whats your power goal?

My goals were to tub this supra, someday with the same motor. So, my motor is VERY overbuilt for my current powergoals.

If you're in the 400 RWHP goal range; I'd go with NPR Pistons from ebay .5 MM over, and Rods Magnafluxed, straightened, ARP Rod Bolts, and Making sure the bore on the rod is in spec and honed if needed. Don't forget a Balance, and double checking all clearences.

 

[Bri7man]

So then what makes you think you spun a rod bearing if all you hear is a squeak? That could be anything from a small animal to 20 yr old suspension.

I just know... I've been working on this car for 6 months and I know all the sounds it makes. I looked up on youtube to verify the sound and bingo.

Can you make a vid of said squeak or cut open a filter?

Whats your power goal?

My goals were to tub this supra, someday with the same motor. So, my motor is VERY overbuilt for my current powergoals.

If you're in the 400 RWHP goal range; I'd go with NPR Pistons from ebay .5 MM over, and Rods Magnafluxed, straightened, ARP Rod Bolts, and Making sure the bore on the rod is in spec and honed if needed. Don't forget a Balance, and double checking all clearences.

Haha my power goal is to make people scream:biglaugh:. If I had the money I would be hands deep in my engine right now with top of the line parts going for 8 secs on the strip. Then a set of wheels/tires and turbo for drifting.

Unfortunately my window of opportunity or more like limiting factor in my case is the money. I only have $500 to spend safely before I'm in serious debt(already in debt but not too bad yet).

I won't sell her though I wanna do what it takes to get her back up and stronger with the $500 I have.

I'll make a video to post up.

 

[Bri7man]

My camera didn't pick up the squeak above engine but if you ff to the end when it's under the car you can hear it.
http://s373.photobucket.com/albums/oo175/Bri7manx/supra/?action=view&current=P9050196.flv

 

[CyFi6]

Rod bearings don't squeak when they go out. From what i could hear in the video i don't hear anything more than what could be valve train noise. Dont be stupid and pull your motor apart only to find nothing wrong with it, i have seen people do that.

 

[gaboonviper85]

This thread is so full of stupid it's seriously not even remotely funny!

 

[Bri7man]

Here's a better one. The first was shitty.

Please take into consideration that I did four heads up balls out 1/4th runs with about a minute rest period with the oil pressure in OP.

Anyways here's a better one.
http://s373.photobucket.com/albums/oo175/Bri7manx/supra/?action=view&current=P9060197.flv

 

[Bri7man]

This thread is so full of stupid it's seriously not even remotely funny!

None of this shit please, I already admitted I did something stupid.

 

[CyFi6]

First off, fill up your coolant overflow. I still dont hear anything out of the ordinary in the video, if you hear something knocking it doesnt mean its a rod. If you think you are going to be able to build your 7m up with forged pistons and upgraded rods with $500 you are seriously mistaken. $500 will barely get you gaskets and seals

 

[Bri7man]

Yeah I realized this after some ebay searching. It's fine I can just repair with whatever is sufficient for now and tear her apart again in a year or so when I can spend more. The npr's seemed pretty cheap but if my pistons are fine I'll just keep em. I'm sure they are.

Anyways what I want to do is find what I need to replace and go from there.

I do have a coolant leak somewhere that I cannot locate and I fill up my coolant everyday. No signs of overheating under the most extreme circumstances.
I did a block test from napa and the blue dye turned slightly green. Turning yellow indicates a leak and remaining blue means no leak.

 

[CyFi6]

Your dye should not be changeing colors at all unless you have a combustion leak into your cooling system aka head gasket problems. That is unless you sucked up coolant into the tester

 

[IJ.]

Not hearing anything like RK in that vid, Has the idle oil pressure changed after the hard runs?

99% of the time if you've damaged a bearing this is the very first sign.

With the engine idling pull one injector clip at a time and note any change in the rattle then replace the clip and repeat on the next cylinder (helps to have a notepad handy)

Any change in the Napa test indicates you have a leaky HG IF you performed the test following the instructions to the letter.

You may have dodged the bullet this time but in your current financial situation knock off the racing you can't afford it it's stupid. <end lecture>

 

[Bri7man]

Not hearing anything like RK in that vid, Has the idle oil pressure changed after the hard runs?

99&#37; of the time if you've damaged a bearing this is the very first sign.

With the engine idling pull one injector clip at a time and note any change in the rattle then replace the clip and repeat on the next cylinder (helps to have a notepad handy)

Any change in the Napa test indicates you have a leaky HG IF you performed the test following the instructions to the letter.

You may have dodged the bullet this time but in your current financial situation knock off the racing you can't afford it it's stupid. <end lecture>

Yeah I learned my lesson.... I'm definitely not racing again until I know in my mind that everything is 100%.

As for the psi and inj test I was just in my garage doing that.

18psi cold start, 2psi warm idle, 18psi @ 2500rpm's normal op temp engine.

After pulling each injector I noticed no difference in the squeak. Under my car I am starting to hear some chatter from the bottom end.

 

[Jeff Lange]

I purchased a JDM 4A-GZE from an AE92, like most Japanese engines, it was supposedly low mileage, though you don't know how long it's been sitting, or whatever.

I pulled it apart and it actually looked pretty darn good. No sludge issues, looked pretty clean, however after sitting for years the number 1 cylinder had developed more rust than I would have liked.

Honed it, new rings, checked the bearings, replaced 2 of them due to my stupidity (damaged them while the engine was apart), and reassembled it with all new gaskets and seals (including valve seals).

That is the minimum you should do with any engine you purchase used, in my opinion. Open it up and check clearances and the condition of the cylinder walls, cylinder head, etc.

I know what's done is done, and now you need to find out exactly what is wrong with your engine, but it was pretty shortsighted (to say the least) to just throw the engine in there without checking it first. Most 7M's I've seen from Japan are the older models (pre-90), and most of them are probably not well maintained, even if they are low mileage, which I doubt most are.

Good luck with the engine though, if you do pull it, do it properly this time.

Jeff

 

[Bri7man]

I purchased a JDM 4A-GZE from an AE92, like most Japanese engines, it was supposedly low mileage, though you don't know how long it's been sitting, or whatever.

I pulled it apart and it actually looked pretty darn good. No sludge issues, looked pretty clean, however after sitting for years the number 1 cylinder had developed more rust than I would have liked.

Honed it, new rings, checked the bearings, replaced 2 of them due to my stupidity (damaged them while the engine was apart), and reassembled it with all new gaskets and seals (including valve seals).

That is the minimum you should do with any engine you purchase used, in my opinion. Open it up and check clearances and the condition of the cylinder walls, cylinder head, etc.

I know what's done is done, and now you need to find out exactly what is wrong with your engine, but it was pretty shortsighted (to say the least) to just throw the engine in there without checking it first. Most 7M's I've seen from Japan are the older models (pre-90), and most of them are probably not well maintained, even if they are low mileage, which I doubt most are.

Good luck with the engine though, if you do pull it, do it properly this time.

Jeff

Definitely I am next weekend.

Do I have to hone the cylinder walls? There was no rust or anything but you say I should? Does honing require a different sized piston/rings?