No I'm not saying you need to, just that I found I needed to. I wouldn't unless you're installing new rings.
Jeff
Jeff
low oil pressure
- Thread starter Bri7man
- Start date
Measure measure and measure some more...
No one has a crystal ball when it comes to engines and you just don't know until you're inside what it might need.
Having said that 99% of 7m failures are from cutting corners not dotting i's or crossing t's, the details will fuck you every time.
No one has a crystal ball when it comes to engines and you just don't know until you're inside what it might need.
Having said that 99% of 7m failures are from cutting corners not dotting i's or crossing t's, the details will fuck you every time.
Lmao alright.
I think I want to get new rings because I didn't do that and it would suck to do a compression test after to find theres a leak. I'll get them honed then.
Now since I will hone them I will be able to use my stock pistons just slightly bigger rings right?
I think I want to get new rings because I didn't do that and it would suck to do a compression test after to find theres a leak. I'll get them honed then.
Now since I will hone them I will be able to use my stock pistons just slightly bigger rings right?
This is where measuring things comes into play.....
You need to measure the bores and piston skirts then look at the bore condition and decide if it's in good enough shape straightness/roundness to attempt a hone and then remeasure and see if the skirt to bore clearences are still within spec.
Without the measurements it's impossible to answer, anyone at this point that say's yes is a tosser and needs to be ignored.
You need to measure the bores and piston skirts then look at the bore condition and decide if it's in good enough shape straightness/roundness to attempt a hone and then remeasure and see if the skirt to bore clearences are still within spec.
Without the measurements it's impossible to answer, anyone at this point that say's yes is a tosser and needs to be ignored.
IJ.;1401482 said:
Okay, I think I will have the machine shop do this because I don't have any quality measuring devices.
What is the bore size so I know how to calculate new rings?
Also I'm looking at bearings and rings on HPF and I'm wondering what is quality for main bearings, rod bearings, and piston rings.
Any other advice or things I should do/replace?
Sorry dude but I have to say again measure it 
Stock is 83mm but you won't know till you're in there as there's every chance it's been bored at some stage in the last 20+ years!
Stock is 83mm but you won't know till you're in there as there's every chance it's been bored at some stage in the last 20+ years!
Ooooooh youre right I didn't think of that...
This is what I have used to measure in the past but I used my friends dad's micrometer he is issued working at Boeing that gets calibrated on a basis and compared it to mine and it was off by up to .1mm.
It really made me mad so I don't trust it anymore.
This is what I have used to measure in the past but I used my friends dad's micrometer he is issued working at Boeing that gets calibrated on a basis and compared it to mine and it was off by up to .1mm.
It really made me mad so I don't trust it anymore.
Bri7man;1401555 said:Ooooooh youre right I didn't think of that...
This is what I have used to measure in the past but I used my friends dad's micrometer he is issued working at Boeing that gets calibrated on a basis and compared it to mine and it was off by up to .1mm.
It really made me mad so I don't trust it anymore.
That is a "caliper"...that isn't really a precision measuring tool in the hands of someone such as yourself! I'm a machinist and I use mics and calipers everyday...a caliper can be off alot when in the hands of a gorilla...it's all about the feel! When u use calipers I only measure things with .003" tolerance any tighter I'll go with mics.
Your caliper isn't .1mm off...it's the hands it's in that's .1mm off!!! Calipers can't be "off" as they are adjustable and they real from a magnetic scale...considering the "zero" can be reset with the press of a button concreats the fact that you have not a clue of what you're doing....
Also...a caliper is not the proper tool to measure pistons and bore diam...good luck but leave the measuring up too qualified persons.
gaboonviper85;1401570 said:
Yeah when I was measuring my shims I also used a .03 personal tolerance.
This was with a starrett micrometer I believe but when I measured with my digital calipers I wiped the surfaces clean each time along with what I was measuring and calibrated it to zero. I was referring to its travel along the shaft where it goes out of spec.
But yeah I agree leave the measuring to qualified persons like yourself.
First of all, find that coolant leak. You keep running around "topping off your coolant" your going to need a new cylinder head.
Second of all what you want to do isnt even remotely close to $500. Given your budget, and assuming you didnt spin a bearing, and this is your only car, a better idea would be:
new water pump, composite head gasket, arp head studs, new Aisin oil pump, new gaskets, thermostat, coolant hoses, a good tq wrench, timing belt, plugs and wires.
^ this is more like $500
I understand you want to build a motor, thats great. blocks show up here all the time, there was recently one avail for free. pickup one when you can and build this on your spare time when you have the money and then you can put in in. In the mean time you will have a car that runs, assuming you dont beat on it.
Second of all what you want to do isnt even remotely close to $500. Given your budget, and assuming you didnt spin a bearing, and this is your only car, a better idea would be:
new water pump, composite head gasket, arp head studs, new Aisin oil pump, new gaskets, thermostat, coolant hoses, a good tq wrench, timing belt, plugs and wires.
^ this is more like $500
I understand you want to build a motor, thats great. blocks show up here all the time, there was recently one avail for free. pickup one when you can and build this on your spare time when you have the money and then you can put in in. In the mean time you will have a car that runs, assuming you dont beat on it.
lewis15498;1401621 said:
Yes I have a machined head/block cometic hg and arp studs in it currently torqued at 80 ft llbs with all new gaskets/hoses a stage3 clutch light fly full 3" tanabe medallion touring, apexi intake yes I thought I had the basics taken care of with slight issues leading to my demise. I do agree with the pumps, belts are fine brand new brk7e's ngk spark plugs replaced tps and installed better harness clearing all codes. I've given everything my best shot from no previous engine experience thank god for tsrm and forums.
Water pump will be on the way shortly from a member along with oil pump, but the fact still remains my bottom end is squeaking and convinced its a rod bearing hence racing on low oil pressure and obvious squeak irl with beginning signs of bottom end clunking.
No I have not been driving it since just idle tests and diagnostics slowly taking toll on obvious problem.
I think I can have this done considering I'm not driving it to further any damage that could be sneaking up on my crank or rods. I think new bearings and might as well new piston rings as long as my rods are okay + water and oil pump give or take is quite close to $500 and bring me back to "ok go" mode.
Yes this car runs but theres no way in fucking hell I'm going to drive it as is would be as stupid as racing on low oil pressure in the first place.
just curious, did you ever drain your oil? check the magnet? check the filter "cut it in half"? also a better way to check your cylinders would be to use a inside micrometer and then measure that with a outside micrometer. also didnt see any posting of a compression test.. do some simple things and tell us what you find. someone here will help you out
Do this, and also check you timing belt to make sure thats not getting chewed up. My mothers acura had a ripped piece of timing belt that was slapping the cover and sounded like a valve tick.Zumtizzle;1401736 said:
northwestsupra;1401757 said:
If you spun a bearing your oil is gonna be like glitter, and your oil filter is going to be full of it. Also a compression test would rule out alot. Do these things.
Oil pump + water pump are like $300 leaving you with 200 in your budget, which is why i say $500=no go on your bottom end rebuild.
You dont get a cast put on your arm if it isnt broken. Don't be pulling things apart if your not even sure what, if anything is wrong.
Alright well I'm getting ready to go out and do these tests.
Now for the belt am I just taking off the cam belt?
A member is selling me a new water pump for $125 so I'm really thankful for that.
Edit,
Wouldn't running my car w/o the timing belt smash up my valves?
Now for the belt am I just taking off the cam belt?
A member is selling me a new water pump for $125 so I'm really thankful for that.
Edit,
Wouldn't running my car w/o the timing belt smash up my valves?
Last edited:
^that waterpump is crap. (if you knew actual cost on that pump you'd laugh...)
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103968
I sold him this,
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103968
I sold him this,
Oh oops! i got the numbers all mixed upXD.
Anywways I JUST drained my oil after heatin her up for a bit. The bright spots in the pic are bubbles not shavings. Other than having coolant in the oil it doesn't look to have shavings.
Anywways I JUST drained my oil after heatin her up for a bit. The bright spots in the pic are bubbles not shavings. Other than having coolant in the oil it doesn't look to have shavings.
well it looks like its time for a compression test. also dont forget to check your filter like i said. these items are cheap. so far bottom end is looking great to me