low oil pressure

[Turbo Habanero]

So i just read all 14 pages. And i decided i want my time back lol just kidding.

Atleast you didn't lose to that mustang and fuck your car up that would have been a swift kick in the :kickinthenuts:

Mustangs are like tampons every pussy's got one :biglaugh:

 

[Bri7man]

Yeah really... my buddy was there and he has a 6 cyl mustang and he was like "FUCKKKKK.... Brian has a faster car than me...." he always thought his 6cyl 01 pony was the best cause he has a nice custom exhaust bullit wheels and bored out his throttle body.....


Anyways my timing belt is fucked.... and it was mint a couple weeks ago after doing a valve adjustment. Does this happen if you don't put it on exactly straight?

 

[northwestsupra]

oh man that sucks. truthfully i dont know, i suspect if you didnt put it on straight it would have walked its way over a little but not to the edge. hows your tensioner? is it tight?

 

[Bri7man]

It could of been tighter imho.
Do any of you guys use a device to measure the tension?

 

[Turbo Habanero]

6 cylinder mustangs enough said......

 

[CyFi6]

When you had the block machined, did you have the rear timing cover machined with it? If not that could definitely happen, not to mention it could explain your head gasket sealing issues.

 

[jdub]

What is the crap on the pickup?

(ie: what material is it Aluminium, steel,organic?)

I'd like to know the answer to this ^^^ as well.


If you pull the pistons, that makes a re-ring and cylinder hone mandatory. Check all crank clearances, including thrust washers.

That timing belt explains the noise you were hearing
You either somehow installed the crank timing belt drive gear backwards or the washer attached (straked) to it came loose. You should always retension the timing belt after 500 miles or so.

Not machining the top of the rear timing plate with the block will not cause the belt to do that, but it will cause a HG not to seal.

Some advice: Slow down and do things faster

 

[Bri7man]

What is the crap on the pickup?
(ie: what material is it Aluminium, steel,organic?)

I'm sorry I didn't see your post earlier. It looks to be aluminum since its very shiny/malleable and curly.

I'd like to know the answer to this ^^^ as well.


If you pull the pistons, that makes a re-ring and cylinder hone mandatory. Check all crank clearances, including thrust washers.

That timing belt explains the noise you were hearing
You either somehow installed the crank timing belt drive gear backwards or the washer attached (straked) to it came loose. You should always retension the timing belt after 500 miles or so.

Not machining the top of the rear timing plate with the block will not cause the belt to do that, but it will cause a HG not to seal.

Some advice: Slow down and do things faster

I machined the head/block with the rear timing. I did forget to fipg the front of the block though.

I decided to slow down and replace things that needed replacing the first time. I'm doing things right this time. It's kind of difficult not having a engine stand.

 

[jdub]

Did you flush the block/head oil passages out after they were machined and before putting the head back on?

No FPIG on the top of the timing cover = oil leak

 

[Bri7man]

Did you flush the block/head oil passages out after they were machined and before putting the head back on?

No FPIG on the top of the timing cover = oil leak

Yeah for like the 2 days I was waiting on parts after I got it back I ran a air compressor all over and inside before going to bed. There wasn't much debree and nothing to scale like the shavings in my oil pan/ pump pickup.

I also changed oil and filters 3 times from then. (2 months ago)

I set my engine back down and am taking the head off today then gonna roll my bottom end on some boards/towels and measure per tsrm.

 

[northwestsupra]

fpig?

 

[Bri7man]

yeah its toyota form in place gasket tube

 

[Bri7man]

Well my oil pump was well in spec although the strainer mesh was bent very close to the oil intake pipe and interlaced with metal shavings in that area possibly from shavings I didn't pick up from back when I got my engine machined.

Anyways that is my theory.

Rods have side play although not up/down.

Apparently I don't have plastigage so I'll be getting that and measuring if there was any main bearing damage hopefully tomorrow.

 

[jdub]

While you have the pump out, shim the relief valve with washers...about 5mm thickness worth.

 

[Bri7man]

While you have the pump out, shim the relief valve with washers...about 5mm thickness worth.

Ohhhhh Zumtizz just told me to do the same thing. Just throw a 5mm washer in there?

 

[jdub]

The washers have to fit under the valve bolt...5mm (+/-) is the thickness...you'll need several.

 

[northwestsupra]

where does this FPIG go? use? also whats the point of the 5mm washer? open up the valve for more oil flow?

 

[CyFi6]

The washers put more tension on the spring, which holds the valve from relieving pressure until it reaches a higher pressure

 

[Bri7man]

Rod bearing clearances:
1).040
2).038
3).038
4).039
5).038
6).039

My theory is the shavings that were clogging the already pushed in mesh on my oil pump was the cause for the low oil pressure.

 

[northwestsupra]

The washers put more tension on the spring, which holds the valve from relieving pressure until it reaches a higher pressure

sorry, not trying to jack the thread, just really curious. but whats the reason for wanting this. just to have a higher oil pressure? better cooling and lubrication i guess?