low oil pressure
- Thread starter Bri7man
- Start date
jdub;1404046 said:Wonder what page he's on?
page #1, it takes awhile when you have to sound out all the big words
Yeah sheesh it was hard to read with all that jabber.... :biglaugh:
I read the whole thing: chlorinated brake cleaner, paint thinner, or acetone.
Then copper spray or brake quiet. I have brake quiet in stock but I'm thinking VHT copper spray may be better.
I read the whole thing: chlorinated brake cleaner, paint thinner, or acetone.
Then copper spray or brake quiet. I have brake quiet in stock but I'm thinking VHT copper spray may be better.
IJ.;1404053 said:page #1, it takes awhile when you have to sound out all the big words
Sou per cah lah frag ah listic ex peed ala doshious
Pwnt.
If I were you and I had as much money as you say you have for your car. I would
1) Fix the head gasket if you verify it is actually leaking - make sure you are doing the test right
2) not change piston rings
3) make sure you did not spin a bearing...I don't think you spun one from your videos and your oil. Have you listened to a 7m rodknock from spun bearings? Its a very distinct sound.
4) put it together and hope it works, keep it full of oil, race less and if it doesn't work or has a problem I would consider selling or letting it sit. 500$ won't get you far with this car and half assed is not a good idea.
1) Fix the head gasket if you verify it is actually leaking - make sure you are doing the test right
2) not change piston rings
3) make sure you did not spin a bearing...I don't think you spun one from your videos and your oil. Have you listened to a 7m rodknock from spun bearings? Its a very distinct sound.
4) put it together and hope it works, keep it full of oil, race less and if it doesn't work or has a problem I would consider selling or letting it sit. 500$ won't get you far with this car and half assed is not a good idea.
Yeah rings are fine.
With the $500 I plan to redo hoses I didn't get to and replace bearings if needed.
Have a water pump on the way and have a deal for a oil pump if tsrm doesn't check out with it.
I'm just gonna take it one step at a time.
I looked up rk for our cars and mine is more of a squeak. Although its pretty choppy from the bottom end when I stick my head under. Def not anywhere near normal.
Not sure what it is but I'll find out 2morro.
Supra will not be sold at any cost. :icon_evil
Edit,
Well I should say I'm expecting a spun bearing.
4 heads up 1/4th runs against a mustang gt with 0 oil pressure at idle.....
But like I said we'll see.
With the $500 I plan to redo hoses I didn't get to and replace bearings if needed.
Have a water pump on the way and have a deal for a oil pump if tsrm doesn't check out with it.
I'm just gonna take it one step at a time.
I looked up rk for our cars and mine is more of a squeak. Although its pretty choppy from the bottom end when I stick my head under. Def not anywhere near normal.
Not sure what it is but I'll find out 2morro.
Supra will not be sold at any cost. :icon_evil
Edit,
Well I should say I'm expecting a spun bearing.
4 heads up 1/4th runs against a mustang gt with 0 oil pressure at idle.....
But like I said we'll see.
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buy a stethoscope or take a screwdriver/pry bar/long extension and put it on the block and put your ear to the other end if you hear knocking on the bottom of the block then its your rods.
We'll I'm pullin her tomorrow after school to address my mhg leak and oil pan leaks so I'll know first hand.
I just got in from pulling my engine and here's what I found:
Pretty much every rod has play in it. Not bad but enough to wiggle side to side and hit the crank walls. I think #2's the worst but they're all somewhat loose.
Also found where my coolant was going..
Dunno if this could contribute to the coolant in my oil but the way the leak is I can't tell if its just the hose fitting up top or the back plate or a hg leak. For sure the top is but could be all of the above from previous symptoms and oil residue.
I was going really fast cause I was alone and I busted my ps line where it goes into the firewall cause i forgot to detach it before lifting :icon_sad: Also this thing got crushed and broke the connection part...
If anyone knows where I can get those 2 replaced efficiently please lmk...
Tomorrow is going to be a looong day...
Pretty much every rod has play in it. Not bad but enough to wiggle side to side and hit the crank walls. I think #2's the worst but they're all somewhat loose.
Also found where my coolant was going..
I was going really fast cause I was alone and I busted my ps line where it goes into the firewall cause i forgot to detach it before lifting :icon_sad: Also this thing got crushed and broke the connection part...
If anyone knows where I can get those 2 replaced efficiently please lmk...
Tomorrow is going to be a looong day...
ohhhh mannnn, well wish you luck dude. sorry to see all of that, just make sure to measure everything before and after so you can compare differences
sorry to see all of that, just make sure to measure everything before and after so you can compare differences
Yeah for sure.
The only part that trips me out and really makes me paranoid is getting parts. I think its ocd of some sort but I really get freaked for some reason.... like overly worried for some reason I can't explain.
I know I'll get my bearings from hpf or ss and I'm thinking champion toyota for the egr vac + ps line that I broke and my local toyota for hoses and cps ring since its leaking. I'm sure there's more I need I can't think of...
Anyways sorry I had to post that for pom.
Something more on topic is how straight forward is replacing main bearings and rod bearing? I do not need to remove pistons for this correct? I'm going to follow tsrm and measure with the plastigage and all but just for clarity I wanted to ask.
Also precautions I should take with the crankshaft in regards to my issue.
Anything I should know or be warned please lmk!!!!
I'm freakin out but shouldn't be because I have till middle of next week to have this complete but school is a factor too. I have transportation in the meantime so it should be fine.
Edit,
Oh and my oil pan surface isn't flush at the corners from prying it off, if held flat they are slightly lower. Can I repair this myself or will the bolts make it not matter, the corners probably sit a millimeter under flush.
The only part that trips me out and really makes me paranoid is getting parts. I think its ocd of some sort but I really get freaked for some reason.... like overly worried for some reason I can't explain.
I know I'll get my bearings from hpf or ss and I'm thinking champion toyota for the egr vac + ps line that I broke and my local toyota for hoses and cps ring since its leaking. I'm sure there's more I need I can't think of...
Anyways sorry I had to post that for pom.
Something more on topic is how straight forward is replacing main bearings and rod bearing? I do not need to remove pistons for this correct? I'm going to follow tsrm and measure with the plastigage and all but just for clarity I wanted to ask.
Also precautions I should take with the crankshaft in regards to my issue.
Anything I should know or be warned please lmk!!!!
I'm freakin out but shouldn't be because I have till middle of next week to have this complete but school is a factor too. I have transportation in the meantime so it should be fine.
Edit,
Oh and my oil pan surface isn't flush at the corners from prying it off, if held flat they are slightly lower. Can I repair this myself or will the bolts make it not matter, the corners probably sit a millimeter under flush.
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Side clearence on the rods means nothing.....
UP/DOWN is a different matter.
(unless it's out of spec but "some" is normal)
UP/DOWN is a different matter.
(unless it's out of spec but "some" is normal)
Pretty damn straight forward, just make sure you do everything to spec. and follow tsrm you should be fineBri7man;1405782 said:
what does the tsrm say?
no you dont have to, but make sure you keep everything in the right order. follow directions closely. there is an order for removing the crank bolts so you dont warp your crank. make sure you lube everything up with assembly lube. torque to spec. and again measure everything. while your in there "though it should come with the main bearing kit" replace the thrust washers" thats good, tsrm is like your bible get to know it and praise on it. fall asleep with it at night, and tell it you love it. make it breakfast in the morning and then read it again. go to the gym with it and never ever take a shower or go swimming with it.
try not to damage it i guess. make sure its clean when your done, not surface "bearing area" scratches, nothing clogging the oil passages either
just a note, dont really want to pry, hit it with a rubber mallet, usually will break right off of it.
you could use a brass punch and tap it back into pace on a flat hard surface.
Haha thanks dude I feel a lot better now. :biglaugh:.
If I don't know what I'm doing from personal experience and have to rely on something I always freak out. Hopefully there will be a point when I know tsrm like the back of my hand. I think I might start studying it so I have an understanding of everything.
I'll check up and down clearance IJ.
If I don't know what I'm doing from personal experience and have to rely on something I always freak out. Hopefully there will be a point when I know tsrm like the back of my hand. I think I might start studying it so I have an understanding of everything.
I'll check up and down clearance IJ.
You might want to figure out why your oil pressure was so low. If it was caused by your excessively large oil clearances on your bearings you are going to want to find out why your clearances are so large. A direct replacement of bearings isnt going to do much good if the problem lies somewhere else.
Yeah I plan on measuring the gears in the oil pump in the tsrm and wouldn't new thrust washers to spec fix the oil clearance?
Bri7man;1405958 said:
no, thust washers control the in and out play of the crank. Bearings set your connecting rod to journal clearance, but if your crankshaft was machined or polished too much, worn beyond spec, or if your rod big ends are worn or oblong your oil clearance is going to be off. Large oil clearance leads to failure and low oil pressure which leads to failure of the entire engine. If you can literally jiggle the rods on the crank (up and down, not side to side) you have WAY too much clearance, but you need to plastigauge everything before making assumptions.