low oil pressure

[jdub]

Rod bearing clearances:
1).040
2).038
3).038
4).039
5).038
6).039

My theory is the shavings that were clogging the already pushed in mesh on my oil pump was the cause for the low oil pressure.

I hope you left a zero out on those measurements...considering rod clearance range is 0.0012"-0.0019" (that's ten thou), I doubt the motor would even run with the clearances you posted (at least for very long).

Maybe you should check again?

It's doubtful the metal particles on the pick-up screen caused the low pressure...worn bearing will cause lower oil pressure.

 

[IJ.]

Metric 0.04 = 0.0015"

 

[jdub]

That's what I was thinking too...making a point that the unit of measure is kinda important

 

[IJ.]

Yep right up there with his making up idiotic theories to fit the symptoms rather than actually pinpoint the root cause of the issue....
(said all along it hadn't spun a bearing)

 

[Bri7man]

Millimeters, sorry i thought it was obvious.

Then what the hell was giving me such low oil pressure. Oil pumps in spec. Ordering a new spring, mesh filter assembly and shimming anyways.

 

[jdub]

Could be a couple things:
- Piston squirter opening below it's rated 40 psi.
- Stock filter head cooler valve opening below it's rated 40 psi.
- Oil pump relief valve opening early.

Might consider replacing the squirter bolts while the oil pan is off

 

[IJ.]

Could be a couple things:
- Piston squirter opening below it's rated 40 psi.
- Stock filter head cooler valve opening below it's rated 40 psi.
- Oil pump relief valve opening early.

Might consider replacing the squirter bolts while the oil pan is off

ALL of the above or maybe even a dodgy Oil Pressure sender
(would have been the first thing I'd have tested and confirmed)

 

[Bri7man]

I did a napa oil pressure test and it confirmed the same reading as my new oil pressure sender, so squirter bolts? I have no idea what they are or what they do but I'll look into em for sure.

 

[IJ.]

What is a Napa Oil Pressure test?

Bolts at the very least they're 20+ years old and more than likely full of crap and not seating, I'd lose the stock cooler turd... I mean "circuit" and install a T Stat controlled full flow system.

Even running BIG bearing clearences I never had less than 20 PSI Hot idle here.

 

[Bri7man]

What is a Napa Oil Pressure test?

Bolts at the very least they're 20+ years old and more than likely full of crap and not seating, I'd lose the stock cooler turd... I mean "circuit" and install a T Stat controlled full flow system.

Even running BIG bearing clearences I never had less than 20 PSI Hot idle here.

#15703-66010 squirter bolts, Springs while I'm at it?
http://forums.celicasupra.com/showthread.php?t=26605

How much is a T Stat sys? I'm really, really low on cash.

I was getting 0psi hot idle confirmed with a Napa Oil Pressure Tester. 18-25psi at 2500 rpm's.
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPag...umber=7001520&Description=Oil+Pressure+Tester


I acknowledge I don't have a damn idea what I'm doing but I'm doing my best to do things right with what money I have left.

 

[IJ.]

The squirter bolts are check valves with springs and balls installed in them.

When you used your Napa tester what was the pressure at 3000 rpm?

You can piece together a full flow system cheaply using PermaCool parts.

 

[Bri7man]

The squirter bolts are check valves with springs and balls installed in them.

When you used your Napa tester what was the pressure at 3000 rpm?

You can piece together a full flow system cheaply using PermaCool parts.

Sorry I edited my last post but I believe 3000rpms was still round 18-25 psi iirc.

I unfortunately don't have any experience to be able to trust myself in blueprinting anything on my engine quite yet.

I assume the PN I posted then would account for the bolts/valves/springs/balls?

 

[Bri7man]

Fuck it, might as well give it a shot. Have to start somewhere.

So what specific parts of the system would I need to replace to be considered "full flow"?

One of those oil coolers on perma cool says it drops temp 95 deg. What temp would be too cold for the oil to work at peak efficiency?

 

[OfnaRcR4]

Uhh I guess so. They advertised like all the engines they sell come from cars 40k-60k. All they did was sell jdm engines I believe.

Anyways I spun a rod tonight going heads up against a stock 03 mustang gt.

Smoked him all 4 passes but on the last after I pulled over my engine was squeaking.

It's my fault completely I shouldn't have been racing with low oil pressure.

Pahahahahahahah!!!! Haha sorry.. if anyone needs to disprove the whole JDM low mileage BS this is the perfect example.

 

[jdub]

Fuck it, might as well give it a shot. Have to start somewhere.

So what specific parts of the system would I need to replace to be considered "full flow"?

One of those oil coolers on perma cool says it drops temp 95 deg. What temp would be too cold for the oil to work at peak efficiency?

This should help
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62838

The whole purpose of a full flow Tstat controlled oil cooler system is to get the oil up to ops temp as quickly as possible and maintain it. That temp is 100 deg C.

The stock pressure based system sucks for 2 main reasons:
- Oil is returned from the cooler and dumped straight to the pan. Effectively a pressure bleed.
- Cooler flow is based on pressure, not temperature. Big swings in oil temps result causing less than optimal lubrication performance.

 

[Bri7man]

I really, really want to do this but after realizing it's going to cost a couple hundred dollars I'll have to save it for a couple months down the road once I replaced other necessities/more money.

Just to check with you to make sure I understand what I read:
1)NA filter stud
2)M12x1.25 bolt
3)Permacool Dual Filter Head #1221
4)TI-10S -is this permanent?
5)New oil cooler -You prefer the Derale stacked plate?
6)oil thermostat -which do you prefer?
7)AN-10 hoses

I had a question about the pic under it. What does the T fitting fit into to read the oil psi/temp and would this eliminate the stock oil pressure sender outlet?

Also I can't seem to find the squirter bolt in tsrm epc to double check my pn.
Is this correct #15703-66010?

 

[Bri7man]

I have all my oil squirter bolts out and I blew compressed air through them to make sure they were not clogged.

Is there a way to test is they are good?

Also should I shim the oil filter bracket relief spring as I am with my pump?

 

[IJ.]

Mini reg on the compressor and slowly increase the pressure to see what point they open at (should be around 35psi)

Yes you need to shim both relief valves the same.

 

[jdub]

I really, really want to do this but after realizing it's going to cost a couple hundred dollars I'll have to save it for a couple months down the road once I replaced other necessities/more money.

Just to check with you to make sure I understand what I read:
1)NA filter stud
2)M12x1.25 bolt
3)Permacool Dual Filter Head #1221 You can use a single as well
4)TI-10S -is this permanent? Only on a dual head...the body is reusable, the internal filter has to be changed every 3-5000 miles
5)New oil cooler -You prefer the Derale stacked plate? Any of the stacked plate are good. B&M is the best IMO
6)oil thermostat -which do you prefer? Mocal
7)AN-10 hoses

You left out the block adapter to feed/return for the circuit

I had a question about the pic under it. What does the T fitting fit into to read the oil psi/temp and would this eliminate the stock oil pressure sender outlet?

Also I can't seem to find the squirter bolt in tsrm epc to double check my pn.
Is this correct #15703-66010?

It's best to use the stock pressure sender location. For a temp sensor, a T on the return line to the block is fine.

Keep something in mind about shimming the filter relief valve for the cooler: Higher pressure is required for oil to flow through the cooler circuit...this means you will have higher oil temps as a result. It rapidly becomes self defeating.

 

[IJ.]

It's best to use the stock pressure sender location. For a temp sensor, a T on the return line to the block is fine.

Keep something in mind about shimming the filter relief valve for the cooler: Higher pressure is required for oil to flow through the cooler circuit...this means you will have higher oil temps as a result. It rapidly becomes self defeating.

And why a full flow T Stat based system is so much better
(not to mention that the stock system is active when the engine is cold making warm up times longer, right at the time when most engine wear occurs.... WTF were they thinking)