Yay! Everybody's turbos are coming in! Dan- you might even have a chance at driving your Supra to the meet! Whoo Hoo!
Leecheater's rebuild, getting there
- Thread starter leecheater
- Start date
Steve, all I can say is we will see. Still need a couple of parts. Sean is working on the down pipe right now. Just not sure she will be reliable enough to drive that far.
BTW, I was told the passenger side wiper arms are not made any more and unavailable. So, I am looking for a set if you come across any.
Dan
BTW, I was told the passenger side wiper arms are not made any more and unavailable. So, I am looking for a set if you come across any.
Dan
leecheater;1563828 said:
:rofl: I threw a set out last fall during fall cleaning of the garage and anther set a couple weeks ago during spring garage clean up.
Rob, the ones I have, especially the passengers side are striped. The small aluminum teeth inside are shot. That's why Steve suggested new ones. I will just get a set off one of the cars in the for sale section. There should be plenty to choose from.
Starting to look like I will be driving the BMW unless SupraSport has the 2.5" to 3" 90 reducer elbow I need. Still have a small chance she will work though.
Dan
Starting to look like I will be driving the BMW unless SupraSport has the 2.5" to 3" 90 reducer elbow I need. Still have a small chance she will work though.
Dan
There actually aren't any teeth on the arms, the teeth on the steel pins press their way into the soft aluminum as you tighten the nut. It's really reliable, but the arms are the weak link.
In all reality- if you can find a tapered drill bit that matches the taper on the pins you could have Sean weld up the holes, and drill out new ones, but my guess would be it's cheaper to buy new or used ones. lol
In all reality- if you can find a tapered drill bit that matches the taper on the pins you could have Sean weld up the holes, and drill out new ones, but my guess would be it's cheaper to buy new or used ones. lol
Ok Steve, I will be looking for a clean used set. Sean is going to SS today and hopefully will return with my needed fittings for the turbo. She should be running on Sunday!!
it is the designed weak point, nissan does this as well.. usually you can get away with picking the pivot stud clean and reinstalling the arms, they will cut new teeth. usually on a nissan you can get at least 3 reinstalls after a stripout out of a set of arms. id try that first.toyotanos;1564278 said:
Jeremy's got it! Those are pretty much my exact words to Dan/Sean last Sunday, lol. 
Unfortunately, Dan's arms have been stripped a few times and the holes are augered out too much to re-use.
It's not a fun problem to deal with, but then again I'd rather swap a set of arms out any day compared to a linkage. If they didn't have that particular weak point, something else would have to give if the arms got stuck (i.e. frozen to the windshield)
Unfortunately, Dan's arms have been stripped a few times and the holes are augered out too much to re-use.
It's not a fun problem to deal with, but then again I'd rather swap a set of arms out any day compared to a linkage. If they didn't have that particular weak point, something else would have to give if the arms got stuck (i.e. frozen to the windshield)
Well Sean has hard cored it trying to get her up and running for the meet today. It's 2 am and we just got back from a mile ride around the neighbor hood. It runs a bit rough but she runs and boosts hard. We have a lot of tweaking to finish her off. We will be taking the BMW. Here are a few photos of Sean's awesome wastegate,downpipe and turbo install. Still needs work, but we will be ready for the dyno on Wednesday.
Time for a few hours shut eye
Time for a few hours shut eye
IJ he just flipped it over. Made install and removal of down pipe a lot easier. I can tell you even though we only drove her for a mile of so last night. I popped her off a couple of times. We just wanted to see if we had boost. Here are a couple more photos of his welding job. What do you all think??
Lee: My only concern is what it's going to do it the upper RPM/Flow ranges, see the pic the way it is now you run the risk of the WG not being able to vent properly and control boost (Yellow and Red paths) better would be the Blue/Green paths and should still fit in.
IJ, I made sure Sean saw your post. He seems to think it won't be a problem. I am going to be sure we point this out to Shane who will be tuning car on Wednesday.
Tonight we made sure we were running a tad rich and we took her out for a drive around town. It is a real animal. Chirping the tires a 40 mph. According to the data log on the AEM, we went from 0 boost to 20 lbs in 2 sec!!!! We should be able to push her up to 28 lbs perhaps 30.
Lot's of little tweaking to do. Nice to finally be driving her again.
Tonight we made sure we were running a tad rich and we took her out for a drive around town. It is a real animal. Chirping the tires a 40 mph. According to the data log on the AEM, we went from 0 boost to 20 lbs in 2 sec!!!! We should be able to push her up to 28 lbs perhaps 30.
Lot's of little tweaking to do. Nice to finally be driving her again.
Latest update: Bad news, and better news. I had her on the dyno about 10 days ago. We took our time and got the AEM set. She made 550 rwhp at 22 lbs of boost. I was planning on boosting her to 30 lbs. We were just getting ready to make big power when Shane (tuner) heard a sound while listening via head phones. I couldn't even hear it at first. We stopped right there and took her home. Glad I towed her there. I had Sean and Steve listen very carefully. It was making noise, initially upon deceleration, but now with revving as well. We found fine metal particles in the oil. My ace mechanic friend Dylan told me he thought it was a rod bearing. "Drop the pan" So instead of that Sean pulled out the engine, as he felt it would take almost as long to drop the subframe. Just under 3 hours and bolted to an engine stand!!
We found one bad rod bearing and 3 main bearings spun. The crank looks good though, to be safe we are having it buffed. So I have a set of ACL bearings going to be over nighted by Drew. Hope to have her running again this weekend. We also move into my new house on Friday morning so once we are out I won't have a hoist for around 4-6 weeks.
We found one bad rod bearing and 3 main bearings spun. The crank looks good though, to be safe we are having it buffed. So I have a set of ACL bearings going to be over nighted by Drew. Hope to have her running again this weekend. We also move into my new house on Friday morning so once we are out I won't have a hoist for around 4-6 weeks.
Dan, saw the pics last night, I'm glad they didn't wear to the steel backing. I hope your car is back up and running soon!
Steve, Thanks for driving up here and listening. It looks like right now, the bearings will cost 200, plus what ever the cost of buffing the crank. Sean told me he was going to shim the oil pump. The rear seal which I thought had a slow leak appears OK. Anything else beside stop using Mobil 1 that you recommend while I have the bottom end apart?
I'd get new seals anyways, especially after having the crank polished. Front and rear mains at minimum. I'd also change out the thrust bearings (even if you didn't order them). If you need RTV/FIPG for the oil pans, I have lots of Toyota black here, I can even deliver Supra parts in my Supra! lol
Also, get plastigage for checking all the bearing clearances. Have to make sure the new bearings aren't going to do the same thing in 100 miles!
One more question- was the oil pump replaced (with an OEM/aisin pump) when the engine was refreshed? Or was the original one re-used? I'd look at the oil pump very closely, 3 mains and a rod makes me nervous about oiling system problems.
Also, get plastigage for checking all the bearing clearances. Have to make sure the new bearings aren't going to do the same thing in 100 miles!
One more question- was the oil pump replaced (with an OEM/aisin pump) when the engine was refreshed? Or was the original one re-used? I'd look at the oil pump very closely, 3 mains and a rod makes me nervous about oiling system problems.
Steve,
I just sent you an e-mail. We don't know if the oil pump was replaced or not so I vote to do it. I also want to get FMS and RMS. It does make sense.
Whats the best way to be sure metal filings are washed out of motor? There is quite a bit. How soon would you change oil after the car is running? I was thinking 10 miles or so then go with redline synthetic, but this time 15-50 wt. No more Mobile 1 for me!!!
I just sent you an e-mail. We don't know if the oil pump was replaced or not so I vote to do it. I also want to get FMS and RMS. It does make sense.
Whats the best way to be sure metal filings are washed out of motor? There is quite a bit. How soon would you change oil after the car is running? I was thinking 10 miles or so then go with redline synthetic, but this time 15-50 wt. No more Mobile 1 for me!!!
Unless you want to completely tear the engine down you can't get 100% of it out. Best plan would be get it back together and idle it for 15-20 minutes then change the oil *Edit: and change the filter, too*. Use cheap 5w-30 oil since it will only be used for very short times (and be cold), but after ~2 changes (or whenever the oil comes out clean) you can go to the fancy oil.
I read that oil pump thread, and I'm not sure what to think. I know if the PCV isn't operating crankcase pressure can pop the fms out, but I'm not sure on modding the pump. Opening up the seal drain may sound good, but it shouldn't be needed on a new pump since the clearances should not allow excess leakage... It just covers up other problems that can cause damage (not unlike what you're seeing now) But I vote at minimum new OEM pump from whatever source you want, just has to be aisin/toyota. Modded or not, that's your call.
I read that oil pump thread, and I'm not sure what to think. I know if the PCV isn't operating crankcase pressure can pop the fms out, but I'm not sure on modding the pump. Opening up the seal drain may sound good, but it shouldn't be needed on a new pump since the clearances should not allow excess leakage... It just covers up other problems that can cause damage (not unlike what you're seeing now) But I vote at minimum new OEM pump from whatever source you want, just has to be aisin/toyota. Modded or not, that's your call.