Jaguar_5's 87 Turbo Build
- Thread starter Jaguar_5
- Start date
Definitely making progress, i was able to take it for my first real drive 
Only managed to go about 2 miles, the car is very underpowered, stumbles very badly when I give it throttle, it's still not fully roadworthy but we're getting there!
Highest oil pressure was about 100 psi, oil temp didn't even go up until I was stopped at a light waiting to turn back onto my street, it just nudged up to the first line
I definitely have a big boost leak, not sure if that's part of the hesitation problem, but I can hear the turbo spool and everything but on my hardest run up to about 4000 iirc, (everything was logged, but they're 2 LONG logs so I'll have to see if I can break them down later) and my peak boost was .5 psi
This might not be such a bad thing though to break in the motor?
Clutch is super grabby, and between the engine going lean and bogging down when I give it throttle and the clutch, I have to ride it quite a bit to not kill the engine, not too great for breaking the clutch in
I think I just need to increase TPS enrich option, and then see if I can tune for VF to get rid of the stumbles and hesitation throughout the powerband. I think this is the right approach.
Only managed to go about 2 miles, the car is very underpowered, stumbles very badly when I give it throttle, it's still not fully roadworthy but we're getting there!
Highest oil pressure was about 100 psi, oil temp didn't even go up until I was stopped at a light waiting to turn back onto my street, it just nudged up to the first line
I definitely have a big boost leak, not sure if that's part of the hesitation problem, but I can hear the turbo spool and everything but on my hardest run up to about 4000 iirc, (everything was logged, but they're 2 LONG logs so I'll have to see if I can break them down later) and my peak boost was .5 psi
This might not be such a bad thing though to break in the motor?
Clutch is super grabby, and between the engine going lean and bogging down when I give it throttle and the clutch, I have to ride it quite a bit to not kill the engine, not too great for breaking the clutch in
I think I just need to increase TPS enrich option, and then see if I can tune for VF to get rid of the stumbles and hesitation throughout the powerband. I think this is the right approach.
buckshotglass
I love all your sounds.
Nope, it's not nearly as thick as the sway bar
I'm not really sure what it is for, I think it's a brace incase the driveshaft breaks or something, it is supposed to bolt below the driveshaft, just forward of the LSD iirc
I didn't notice it when I reinstalled the driveshaft, it was only bolted up on one side, and it got wedged against the body
If anyone has any suggestions on any settings to change, please, I'm all ears
I'm not really sure what it is for, I think it's a brace incase the driveshaft breaks or something, it is supposed to bolt below the driveshaft, just forward of the LSD iirc
I didn't notice it when I reinstalled the driveshaft, it was only bolted up on one side, and it got wedged against the body
If anyone has any suggestions on any settings to change, please, I'm all ears
Making progress, the car is much better mannered now!! My MAP readings seemed a bit off, I hooked it up to the AFPR vac source instead, and the readings are much better! MAP actually spikes up quickly with the throttle, as opposed to a slow incline.
It's at a much more driveable point now What a great feeling it is!!
Still have some bugs to iron out both in the tune and mechanically, my coolant temp gauge on my dash doesn't work, and I'm not sure if my oil temp gauge works or the circuit is just too efficient, but after about 6 miles of driving there was still no temperature - however after shutting off and heatsoaking for a minute, it did register about 120* F
My speedometer also doesn't work
It's at a much more driveable point now
What a great feeling it is!!Still have some bugs to iron out both in the tune and mechanically, my coolant temp gauge on my dash doesn't work, and I'm not sure if my oil temp gauge works or the circuit is just too efficient, but after about 6 miles of driving there was still no temperature - however after shutting off and heatsoaking for a minute, it did register about 120* F
My speedometer also doesn't work
Jaguar_5;1123484 said:
Cable hooked up to the tranny?
Jag - you're using a dual oil filter with a Trasko correct?
Have any pics of it mounted?
jdub;1123489 said:Cable hooked up to the tranny?
Jag - you're using a dual oil filter with a Trasko correct?
Have any pics of it mounted?
I'm pretty sure it's hooked up lol, I'll double check, but I do remember seeing the needle bounce around a bit (a good 1-1/2" down from the 0) so that would eliminate that option, it is routed differently from stock, but no harsh bends or anything
I do have a dual filter mount and a trasko:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1040898&postcount=402
I have the TI-10S, I definitely would have had room for the T3/4-20S, But i didn't know where I was going to mount it at the time and wanted to play it safe
So I noticed today I also have a code 42, CEL doesn't stay on but it does store 24, 32, 42
24 and 32 are normal with the Maft, here's the description of 42:
No "SPD" signal to ECU for 8 seconds when engine speed is between 2,500RPM and 4,500RPM (7M-GE) or 4,000RPM (7M-GTE) and coolant temp is below 80°C(176°F) and neutral start switch is off.
Unless someone says otherwise, I'm going to assume this is because my coolant temp sensor isn't working, and just ignore it until I get that fixed!
So I noticed today I also have a code 42, CEL doesn't stay on but it does store 24, 32, 42
24 and 32 are normal with the Maft, here's the description of 42:
No "SPD" signal to ECU for 8 seconds when engine speed is between 2,500RPM and 4,500RPM (7M-GE) or 4,000RPM (7M-GTE) and coolant temp is below 80°C(176°F) and neutral start switch is off.
Unless someone says otherwise, I'm going to assume this is because my coolant temp sensor isn't working, and just ignore it until I get that fixed!
You're speedo is not working ...correct?
Care to guess where the SPD signal is derived from?
It's used mainly to control idle, AFR during acceleration/deceleration and fuel cut during deceleration.
Care to guess where the SPD signal is derived from?
It's used mainly to control idle, AFR during acceleration/deceleration and fuel cut during deceleration.
LOL...the speed sensor is indeed in the speedo (reed type), turned by the speedometer cable. Fix your speedo and the code will go away. If you had an auto tranny, the effect of this code would be a bit more pronounced
You're welcome Jag.
You're welcome Jag.
Well my odomotor is only reading like 9 miles but I know I've done somewhere between 20 and 30, and things are feeling good engine pulls good vacuum but it idles very high, I'm guessing thats due to a vacuum leak...
No more driving until I do a oil change, still 30W, not multi-viscosity.
I did fix the boost leak though and have been seeing a few psi here and there
The turbo sounds just vicious, it starts to whine and sounds like it's spooling at part throttle when I'm still reading some vacuum. I keep thinking it might be the death whine but I figured If I actually had it I wouldn't be at all unsure, I've just never driven a car with such a pronounced turbo noise - It does sound amazing though!!
One thing that does have me nervous, is I still have not seen ANY oil temperature - the cooler does get hot though, and after shut off and heat soak I have seen the needle go up a peg or two to 120F, this has me concerned! Could my T-Stat be defective? I'm positive I hooked it up correctly, maybe my temp gauge is bad?
engine pulls good vacuum but it idles very high, I'm guessing thats due to a vacuum leak...No more driving until I do a oil change, still 30W, not multi-viscosity.
I did fix the boost leak though and have been seeing a few psi here and there
The turbo sounds just vicious, it starts to whine and sounds like it's spooling at part throttle when I'm still reading some vacuum. I keep thinking it might be the death whine but I figured If I actually had it I wouldn't be at all unsure, I've just never driven a car with such a pronounced turbo noise - It does sound amazing though!!
One thing that does have me nervous, is I still have not seen ANY oil temperature - the cooler does get hot though, and after shut off and heat soak I have seen the needle go up a peg or two to 120F, this has me concerned! Could my T-Stat be defective? I'm positive I hooked it up correctly, maybe my temp gauge is bad?
Nope filter only then dump the Oil once the motors broken in, if you put multigrade in now it mave have friction modifiers in it and never break in.
The T Stat will be a 90/10 meaning it's always flowing both sides just in different percentages.
It won't open fully till 180f+.
Oil follows water temps so if it hasn't been "hot" it won't open.
The T Stat will be a 90/10 meaning it's always flowing both sides just in different percentages.
It won't open fully till 180f+.
Oil follows water temps so if it hasn't been "hot" it won't open.