Jaguar_5's 87 Turbo Build

Jaguar_5

It's ALIVE!
Feb 7, 2006
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I was planning on changing the oil to flush the system, but still using single viscosity 30W

I guess I won't worry about my oil temps for now, I really need to get my coolant temp sensor working, but I know my T-Stat works because the Radiator gets nice and hot, and my expansion tank level rises and falls so my radiator cap is good as well.

I really need to get my camera fixed so I can get a short video!!!
 

Jaguar_5

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Feb 7, 2006
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Next challenge: Emissions testing! Not going to pass with a 1500 rpm idle :aigo:

Some warm oil pressure readings from yesterday:
1500 rpms: 21 psi
2500 rpms: 49 psi
3500 rpms: 62 psi
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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I come from a land down under
Flush it more than the filter does? ;)

You change the filter early as it can become clogged with assembly lube and crap in the motor and possibly bypass.

Up to you but it's a waste of $$$ to dump Oil that's done 20 minutes.
 

Jaguar_5

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Feb 7, 2006
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I already have all the oil for the change anyways, and I won't be using single viscosity 30W anymore after the first 500 miles... I suppose I can return it, I'm going to look at the filter media in the trasko and then decide
 

Jaguar_5

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Feb 7, 2006
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Probably was a waste of money, but I dumped my oil, my full flow filter (only necessary step apparently) and the media for my trasko, there was a good amount of crap caught on top of the screen on my trasko (scary considering it's plumbed after the full flow filter!!) I can't imagine what they might've done, I love my trasko already!!


I'm having somewhat of a big problem with my suspension now, joy!! When I jacked up my car for all this, the pass side hub just dropped off of the upper ball joint, somehow I vibrated the old bolt off!

The threads are a tiny bit nicked, and it appears there is no way to hold the joint while tightening the nut, so I'm not able to, it just spins :( it appears there is a cotter pin in the epc, but I don't see where that could go?! And there is a SST but I don't see what it could do either, suggestions??
 

Jaguar_5

It's ALIVE!
Feb 7, 2006
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I figured out the ball joint, just had to use the jack to put some pressure on it, I had to run to the hardware store and get a 14x1.5 nylon lock nut

The big issue as of now:

My BOV is still staying open at idle, as soon as I give it a bit of throttle it snaps shut - pinching the vac hose does nothing. I'm not sure if this is causing my 1500 rpm idle, or is because of it! Maybe it's because of my timing? I 'sort of' set it at 10* but it was at 1500 rpm, I don't have a code 51

I'm pretty stumped by this one!!
 

Jaguar_5

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Feb 7, 2006
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Tial knockoff, with the light spring (7 psi iirc)

I'm running off the wastegate spring, no shims or boost controller
 

Jaguar_5

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Feb 7, 2006
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Time for a sad update :(

Last night I fixed my idle problem, I tried to adjust my tune back a bit since I now have less air entering the system then before, so obviously I had to re-tune, but I guess I should have just reset and started over!

I hopped on the freeway to get a data log (the car was still driving fine unless I gave it too much load and it went way rich, like 9 afr) and out of nowhere it started stuttering and bucking like crazy, the tachometer was jumping up and down erratically, I pulled off and it died. I loaded the initial setup bin, and managed to limp it to my parents house.

Today, I went back over, fully reset the Maft-Pro settings, fully closed the idle air screw (found out this was my problem, previous owner must've adjusted it), reset the ECU, looked at plug #1 which had a lot of carbon on it, but the electrode looked clean, and gave it another shot.

It drove just fine until it warmed up, then the same thing happened again, this time it kept dying and I could NOT get it home! Had to call AAA :(

I'm suspecting 3 things at the moment:

1. My spark plug wires, they seem to make a pretty poor connection at the coils, especially #6, I'm going to order a new set from Toyota, like I should've done to begin with!! Don't get OPParts plug wires

2. Spark plugs - I think I fowled them from running too rich

3. Timing - I need to move the CPS one tooth

What's throwing me off is it ran pretty damn well when it was cold! I'm done for today, I'm too frustrated to work on it.

Besides that I still need to fix:

1. Coolant temp sensor, but the rad and upper rad hose heat up, stay full, and the overflow tank fluctuates as it should so I'm not concerned for now - except the ECU also isn't getting a signal, so that might cause issues?

2. Miniscule oil leak on one of the filter housing fittings

3. Speedometer - fine on the transmission, moves a little bit when I tightened the dash in, but it stays below 0 and I can make it jump around faster when I push the dash in, I can hear the cable clicking as it turns, so it's just not making a connection, but my dash is not going in any further...

The bugs keep getting bigger it seems like :(
 

Jaguar_5

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Feb 7, 2006
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It appears as though every single one of my coils are bad

Spec is .3-.5 ohms cold, well the car has been resting for over 12 hours, they all measure between .8 and .9 ohms :(

I found my old plug wires (toyota's) and they all checked out, #6 had the highest resistance of course, and it was about 9k Ohms, well within the 25K Ohm limit so I will be using these, they connect to the plug and coil MUCH better!

I will set the timing back one tooth, and then I need to order new plugs and coils before I can do much else!
 

Jaguar_5

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Feb 7, 2006
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Further diagnosis:

Ignitor is good, ignitor ground is good

CPS everything ohmed out at approximately 220 ohms, spec is 140-180 so I might need a new CPS :(

Waiting on my NGK BCPR7ES' to show up so I can try a different throttle body (PCV not clogged) new plugs, different coilpacks, different plug wires, and hopefully everything should be good!

The thing that trips me out is the fact that last time the car ran fine until it heated up and then out of nowhere it sputtered for a bit and died... kind of a hard symptom to diagnose!
 

Jaguar_5

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Feb 7, 2006
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The car is running again!

Although It's starting to develop a misfire at idle and it'll continue if I rev it with no load, each misfire is a Pop sound, and you can see the tachometer dip down a touch when it happens

I'm having a hard time tuning for VF, it'll tell me I'm lean (0 volts) and I can up the mainscale more and more and it still won't be getting rich enough, I'm guessing my ECU is chasing the Maft, but I'm not certain on what to do

Also:

I cannot get my timing adjusted to 10* BTDC! When the car is jumpered and warm, I max out the adjustment in either direction and either I can't get it high enough, or I move it back one tooth, and I can't get the timing low enough!!

It's like my CPS needs to be right in between the two teeth!


Could this be because my head and block have been shaved too many times? Or could it be a CPS out of adjustment?

I'm going to try and pass emissions today, I got a card reader so I can transfer from my camera, so I'll try and get some pics or a video today
 

Jaguar_5

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Feb 7, 2006
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I set it according to the picture floating around on the forum, but mine could only go abit further or a bit less then how it looks in the CPS picture

I set timing with the crank pointing at 0 (i double checked TDC with a chopstick) double checked the cam gears were pointing up.

[Edit]Or so I thought!!![/Edit]

If that's the only thing it could be I suppose I'll try again, I've taking the CPS out like 6 times now I'm pretty sure it's in correctly :(
 
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Facime

Leather work expert
Jun 1, 2006
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well, when I got my first 7M and put a CPS back in from memory I put it in 180 out and had the same issue with not being able to get timing adjusted correctly without notching the clamp surface to get more angle. Once I went to the book and figured out my mistake I had the CPS in the middle with the proper timing.

Your problem sounded just like mine, but I believe you when you say you think you have it in correctly.
 

Jaguar_5

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Feb 7, 2006
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Well, I failed emissions today :(

But it drove pretty well there and back

Here are my results:
HC: cruise limit 150, result = 210 (fail), idle limit 220, result = 69 (pass)
CO: cruise limit 1, result = 4.61 (fail), idle limit 1.2, result = 0.01 (pass)

CO + CO2: cruise limit 6, result = 15.71
O2: Cruise 2.07, idle 5.49

Idle was at 690

My wideband was reading about 12.5 AFR's during cruise, with some rich spikes, VF is at 0 so I guess my ECU is chasing my tune... I might need to start over again :(

When tuning for VF does 0 volts / Lean mean I need to add fuel? Or does it mean I'm too rich and my ECU is trying to lean it out as much as possible?
 

Jaguar_5

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Feb 7, 2006
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Today, I am doing a retorque, and trying to figure out what is up with my timing

I'm hoping my exhaust cam is just off by a tooth or something, my coolant is draining right now so I can figure it out

As you can see, for it to run the adjustment has to be maxed out, and that puts me at about 5* timing, If I turn it by 1 tooth, then I need to be maxed out in the opposite direction, and I can only get it as low as 15*

So either way I can't seem to get it to 10* :(

 

Jaguar_5

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Feb 7, 2006
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Well, I feel like an idiot!

After being positive I put the CPS in correctly, I realized my cams looked a bit off for TDC, well, it was on the wrong stroke! I set the crank to 0*, double checked TDC with a chopstick in cyl 1, and managed to skip the step in the TSRM about looking for the cam lobe!

So, the winner is:

Facime;1137427 said:
well, when I got my first 7M and put a CPS back in from memory I put it in 180 out and had the same issue with not being able to get timing adjusted correctly without notching the clamp surface to get more angle. Once I went to the book and figured out my mistake I had the CPS in the middle with the proper timing.

Your problem sounded just like mine, but I believe you when you say you think you have it in correctly.

Time to put things back together before It's too dark (after I try and fix my speedo) and then I'll test drive it sunday!

I would post a video, but the colors are all weird from my camera, it's as if the ccd's aren't lined up...
 

Facime

Leather work expert
Jun 1, 2006
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heh, I actually even typed out to line up the cams but then re-read your description of when you timed it and you said you have the cam gears lined up with the notches...so I erased that comment and said I believed you, lol.

Well at least its sorted out now.
 

Jaguar_5

It's ALIVE!
Feb 7, 2006
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Yeah well, you know, the small things are always the first to be overlooked :)

The car drove quite well today, minus a few misfires and hesitations, but that's most likely due to my lack of a tune! But I got some logs, and after some Q&A with Luis (thanks!!) I finally have clarity on a few tuning procedures

I was also able to properly set my CPS (Yay!) and I'm at 10* timing, when I took out the jumper the timing went up to 13*, so all is well in that department (finally!)

I also somewhat fixed my speedo (another issues caused by stupidity, the outer green clip wasn't all the way on the dash side of the speedo assembly!) So my odometer works but my speedometer starts around -15 mph, so I'll need to try and recalibrate it.

Baby steps, but it's getting there!

Tomorrow I will try and see if I can get enough tuning in after school to go and try emissions one more time!