If you get one from an Aussie delivered MA70 it's the same as the JDM ones as we don't have EGR here.
Got my built 7m running last night!! couple questions. Vid. on post 66
- Thread starter 92nsx
- Start date
92nsx;1093628 said:
8 bit actually and that is because no one has REALLY tried.
but no worries. 3p and Brutus are rev-eng the CPU and they already have some good info on it.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73379
I'd like to this myth verified or rejected.
If someone with logging capabilities got hold of a JDM ecu it would be possible to see how the two ECUs handle the timing.
As I stated before the older pre 89 supras in europe (at least according to my information) have the same ECU regardless if the came with EGR or not.
There is definitely a difference in the feel of the car with and without EGR but if the ECU from an EGR equiped car advances the timing more than the CU from a can without EGR is still open for debate. Clearly the ECU will retard timing based on detection of engine knock but whether the JDM ECU has an inherited more retarded timing compared to the USDM is the question.
If someone with logging capabilities got hold of a JDM ecu it would be possible to see how the two ECUs handle the timing.
As I stated before the older pre 89 supras in europe (at least according to my information) have the same ECU regardless if the came with EGR or not.
There is definitely a difference in the feel of the car with and without EGR but if the ECU from an EGR equiped car advances the timing more than the CU from a can without EGR is still open for debate. Clearly the ECU will retard timing based on detection of engine knock but whether the JDM ECU has an inherited more retarded timing compared to the USDM is the question.
Ok well I got everything put pack together last night, and you guys hit the nail right on the head with the flange on the FFIM. I now am pulling 15-17 inHg of vacuum. 
I retimed the cams and timing is on.
Today I have to do a little more trouble shooting. I have that stupid idle problem when it is fluctuating (sp?). Again I have no tach but it idles and around 700 then jumps up to 1500 then back down to 700 then right back up to 1500. It dose this back and forth. I will check the TPS and IAC again. Any other ideas what makes it do that?
I retimed the cams and timing is on.
Today I have to do a little more trouble shooting. I have that stupid idle problem when it is fluctuating (sp?). Again I have no tach but it idles and around 700 then jumps up to 1500 then back down to 700 then right back up to 1500. It dose this back and forth. I will check the TPS and IAC again. Any other ideas what makes it do that?
Decent sized vacuum leak. Close off your IAC and block your PCV and see if the car keeps running. If it doesn't die, make sure your throttle plate is closing all the way. After that you have to hunt for it on your own.
Well I can not find any vac. leaks. I have also sprayed starting fluid every where to find leaks and nothing(starting fluid makes a good cleaner lol). I have blocked off the hose to my IAC and nothing changes. I swaped out TPS and..........nothing still the same. Here is another Vid. and other ideas.?.?.
Yes i "hot wired" the tach and oil pressure gauges in the cluster, so I had some readings.
Yes i "hot wired" the tach and oil pressure gauges in the cluster, so I had some readings.
:1zhelp:Since it dose idle for about 5 sec. after I play with the thorttle, the goes back to the reving thing, can any one tell m if I am looking for a vacuum leak, or is it mechanical / sensor problem? With me bloking off the IAC the engine should die right, (yes TB plate closed)? Since it it dosent still a vacuum leak somewhere?:1zhelp:
Ok when I jumper T and E in the diagnosis block, like when you are going to check for codes, the engine idles at 1500 and stays there. No jumping around, just a solid idle at 1500. When I unplug it it goes back to the up and down idle. What is this telling me? Is it just because the engine is cold?
Do I have a code? As jetjock said to check for codes at W. I have no idea what "W" is.
Still looking for a 89 cluster.
EDIT: I found W on the ECU, I will upload the vid of code/s
Do I have a code? As jetjock said to check for codes at W. I have no idea what "W" is.
Still looking for a 89 cluster.
EDIT: I found W on the ECU, I will upload the vid of code/s
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Whenever T and E1 are jumped the ECU does several things, one of which is to set idle rpm in preparation for ignition timing. That's for a hot engine though. Since that that value isn't 1500 there's something wrong. I suspect timing is off.
W is the ECU terminal that supplies ground to the MIL:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=29
Connect a meter or bulb/led between it and +12 to read codes....
W is the ECU terminal that supplies ground to the MIL:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=29
Connect a meter or bulb/led between it and +12 to read codes....
Timing - Using my Craftsman timing light model # 161.213400 and diagnosis block jumpered (idle at 1500 then) the timing is right on the money, if anything the timing is at 9.75 degrees. I will also upload a video of that after this, if needed.
I still dont have a water temp gauge (as we talked about the cluster already) but the oil temp is at 140 degrees. Warm engine? cool engine? vary limited engine run time like 3-4 min.
Well here is the vid. of using "W" to check for codes. My fluke 77 meter was all over the place. Sorry I cant read this code can you?
Dose this explain the idle problem going up and down?
BTW Jetjock, I like your new Sig. That thread was vary entertaining. I wanted to reach through my laptop and strangle a few people like Homer Simpson (not the member here)would to Bart.
I still dont have a water temp gauge (as we talked about the cluster already) but the oil temp is at 140 degrees. Warm engine? cool engine? vary limited engine run time like 3-4 min.
Well here is the vid. of using "W" to check for codes. My fluke 77 meter was all over the place. Sorry I cant read this code can you?
Dose this explain the idle problem going up and down?
BTW Jetjock, I like your new Sig. That thread was vary entertaining. I wanted to reach through my laptop and strangle a few people like Homer Simpson (not the member here)would to Bart.
I am think it looks like code 41 and 52 correct?
41 = TPS. Bad? Needs adjustment, and this is after it checks out and set correct to TRSM with the shims between the idle set screw? IDEAS!!!!!
Is this my idle prob?
52 = knock. umm... I did add extra ground wire to the sensor harness, (sogi) and have it grounded the the FFIM. One or both knock sensors go bad wile sitting in a box for 9 months?
This sucks I had no codes before I had the engine rebuilt
41 = TPS. Bad? Needs adjustment, and this is after it checks out and set correct to TRSM with the shims between the idle set screw? IDEAS!!!!!
Is this my idle prob?
52 = knock. umm... I did add extra ground wire to the sensor harness, (sogi) and have it grounded the the FFIM. One or both knock sensors go bad wile sitting in a box for 9 months?
This sucks I had no codes before I had the engine rebuilt
Looks like a 52 and 41. The trick is to use the bargraph. I'd clear them and try again in case they're old. If they come back fix the 41 (TPS) first. In fact you may want to unplug the TPS and see if things improve. Timing is dead on at 1500 rpm? Hmmm. I don't think it should be but I'd have to check.
Re sig: Yeah, wtf is up with that guy? I dunno what makes him more of a moron, that he's an outright thief or that he'd brag about it. Another example of this "community" at it's finest...
Re sig: Yeah, wtf is up with that guy? I dunno what makes him more of a moron, that he's an outright thief or that he'd brag about it. Another example of this "community" at it's finest...
After restting ecu I still have code 41. I like the big bird video:biglaugh: Bar graph FTW, But now the idle is doing the up and down thing, all the time, dosent matter if it is jumpered or not. WTF.
I unpluged the TPS sensor and the idle shoot up to 2500 and stayed there with a constant 14.74 volts( not blinking on the fluke, no codes, or constant light) I quicked graped the timing gun and shit the timing was at like 40 or something, way over by the power steering belt, with the TPS unpluged. I pluged it back in and code 41 came back on the fluke and the idle started the up and down thing, with timing back to normal or what ever this timing is.:aigo:
I unpluged the TPS sensor and the idle shoot up to 2500 and stayed there with a constant 14.74 volts( not blinking on the fluke, no codes, or constant light) I quicked graped the timing gun and shit the timing was at like 40 or something, way over by the power steering belt, with the TPS unpluged. I pluged it back in and code 41 came back on the fluke and the idle started the up and down thing, with timing back to normal or what ever this timing is.:aigo:
Any thing else to check? TPS is good/set using the shims outlined in TRSM and I still have code 41. This problem sucks and is keeping me from driving it I am super close to ripping out the FFIM and intercooler set up and buying a OEM intake/ intercooler set up.
It there any chance the throttle body can be bad? The TB was a custom made one by tubbie. It is just a 4" piece of pipe with a S.S. plate. I block off the IAC and shit it dosent even affect the engine!! Again if there is a vac./boost leak I can not find any where!!!!. Before scrapping the FFIM would it be worth wile to try and replace the TB with a manufactured one?? If so what do you recommend?
Side note, I drove it 2 miles to the gas station to put some fresh 92 in it and this car is super unsafe to drive. It feels like there is no brakes, super hard to push. I have full boost by 2400 rpms, and there was no (I don't know how to put it) "crusing"' it was eather full throttle feel at a toutch of throttle or nothing. Car was super jurkey. There was no inbetween.
I am super close to ripping out the FFIM and intercooler set up and buying a OEM intake/ intercooler set up. It there any chance the throttle body can be bad? The TB was a custom made one by tubbie. It is just a 4" piece of pipe with a S.S. plate. I block off the IAC and shit it dosent even affect the engine!! Again if there is a vac./boost leak I can not find any where!!!!. Before scrapping the FFIM would it be worth wile to try and replace the TB with a manufactured one?? If so what do you recommend?
Side note, I drove it 2 miles to the gas station to put some fresh 92 in it and this car is super unsafe to drive. It feels like there is no brakes, super hard to push. I have full boost by 2400 rpms, and there was no (I don't know how to put it) "crusing"' it was eather full throttle feel at a toutch of throttle or nothing. Car was super jurkey. There was no inbetween.
If the TPS is properly adjusted and you still have the code then its likely the problem is in the wiring. You first need to check continuity beween the wires at the TPS plug and the ECU plugs. That will tell you if you have a break in one of the wires. During the rebuild its entirely possible an old wire broke while you were moving the harness around. I had a similiar problem in my mk2 and only found the problem this way. (in my case someone had spliced two wires backwards during the enjine swap)