ForcedTorque's 3E5 has Arrived!!!!!

ForcedTorque

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noah89t;940167 said:
how much was the cps gasket and bvsv?
you should also post their part numbers in the thread for parts

BVSV........................pt#90925-05068..................$66.73

Oil Pressure Sender......pt#83520-55011.................$56.50

CPS Cover.................pt#19121-42010..................$5.29

CPS Gasket...............pt#19127-42010...................$2.74
 

suprarcr89

The Juggernaut has my old
ForcedTorque;940469 said:
BVSV........................pt#90925-05068..................$66.73

Oil Pressure Sender......pt#83520-55011.................$56.50

CPS Cover.................pt#19121-42010..................$5.29

CPS Gasket...............pt#19127-42010...................$2.74



also for those of you who have toyota dealerships that are outrageous in there prices.. champion has them for
bvsv- ..... $44.40
oil pres. send. unit.... $42.94
cps cover- $4.02
cps gasket- $2.08

thats where i got my new cover and gasket about a month ago..


I know the toyota dealership here in town is 2 to 3 times higher on everything just about than champion....
 

ForcedTorque

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I figured Champion would be cheaper, but I wanted my BVSV as quick as possible. As it turned out, it didn't help as much as I thought it would. I'm gonna get my brakes finished up this weekend, and try to get good wiring to everything at my thermostat housing. There's not a whole lot of good wiring left there. Maybe I will one day be buying a brand new harness as well. I have to also install the oil pressure sender and CPS cover. Once I have all that taken care of, I'm gonna reset my codes and see what I get.
 

ForcedTorque

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I will call Watson next time Noah. A fan shroud will soon be on that list.

I kinda consumed a few too many adult beverages last night to be a whole lot of good for my car today. I did pull my suspected IC pipe even though I couldn't hear it leaking any air during my test. I have a spare, so I was gonna cut it to match this one. BUt when I pulled the pipe, I got a very disturbing sign. This is a picture of the metal shaving grit i found inside of it. Somebody tell me that this is normal for new metal piping and I have nothing to worry about. Otherwise, an elplaination would be appreciated even if it is not at all good.

p942237_1.jpg
 

ForcedTorque

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I'm starting to think about talking to Jay about getting my car and Vonda's together for a good olde fashion Bama Bon Fire!

Honestly the idea of checking turbo fins is a good one Ken. It is the turbo that I got from Jay, that has the t04 "H" wheel in it, which is the largest wheel that will fit in a CT-26. I'm sure the slightest shaftplay is gonna cause some shavings sooner or later. He said that it has about 200 miles on it prior to going onto my motor, and I may have put 100 or so on it.
 

gtsfirefighter

SM Expert on White trash
Sep 26, 2006
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ForcedTorque;942295 said:
It is the turbo that I got from Jay.



Well that explains everything!!! Jays luck with the 7M is obviously contagous. Your whole car is probably infected with the Hayes 7M Virus. Don't worry though, it can be cured, it just takes time and patience. Just drink plenty of clear liquids mixed with your choice of carbonated beverages. :icon_razz
 
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ForcedTorque

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OK Duane...........If you insist!

p949460_1.jpg




These are the parts I received in the mail today. I bought the turbo gaskets from BlueMKIII to keep as a spare. The wiring came from GTSfirefighter. As I think I have posted before, all of my brittle wiring at the thermo housing is broken and rigged. I was able to get wiring back into the green plug that I believe goes to the ECU temp switch, and I put it on this morning, clearing up my check engine light as expected.

I also replaced my bad passenger front brake caliper, and adjusted my fuel pressure up as Jay instructed me to do. Then, I put my intercooler pipe back on. The shavings in the pipe were probably original equipment, as the other 180 pipe I replaced it with had the same shavings, and it had never seen use. Lucky I have not yet been able to put much bost thru it yet.

After doing those things, I drove it around the block a couple of times. The brakes are way better, but I still have to do the back two. As for running, I believe it is a little better, as I was able to get it up over 5000rpm with little trouble. I played with my NEO settings a bit until I thought I was dangering the motor, and it did make changes like it should. Maybe a good tuning will help it now. It is still dog slow from a start though, and seems like it could still have some sort of leak.
 

ForcedTorque

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I finally cranked my car again today after letting it sit for about a week untouched. I took a little time to play with my NEO to see if I could solve my last 2 problems without having it tuned. I still was having trouble with it not gaining RPM after about 3500 any faster than at a crawls pace, and I can't get any better than 6-7 pounds of boost out of Jay's almost unused turbo. This all screamed boost leak, but after trying a boost leak detector I had no luck, so I figured it was in the tune.

With no wideband, I slowly tried to make changes by listening to the car out of gear. I was finally able to get the RPM problem smoothed out. But, I still can't get any more boost out of the turbo. Tomorrow, I'm gonna try the boost leak detector again. If I can't find anything again, I'm gonna have to start thinking about putting my stock turbo back on to see if anything changes. I really don't think there is anything wrong with that turbo. It spins very freely, and does not smoke at all. I was very happy with my other progress tho.
 

tookwik4u89

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ForcedTorque;958188 said:
I finally cranked my car again today after letting it sit for about a week untouched. I took a little time to play with my NEO to see if I could solve my last 2 problems without having it tuned. I still was having trouble with it not gaining RPM after about 3500 any faster than at a crawls pace, and I can't get any better than 6-7 pounds of boost out of Jay's almost unused turbo. This all screamed boost leak, but after trying a boost leak detector I had no luck, so I figured it was in the tune.

With no wideband, I slowly tried to make changes by listening to the car out of gear. I was finally able to get the RPM problem smoothed out. But, I still can't get any more boost out of the turbo. Tomorrow, I'm gonna try the boost leak detector again. If I can't find anything again, I'm gonna have to start thinking about putting my stock turbo back on to see if anything changes. I really don't think there is anything wrong with that turbo. It spins very freely, and does not smoke at all. I was very happy with my other progress tho.

It doesn't sound like turbo, that shouldn't keep it from revving like that, and a boost leak could, but you would likely have black smoke out the back. Any codes?
 

ForcedTorque

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I put my boost leak detector back on today, and I believe I have found my problem. First, there is a slight problem with the detector that I figured out first. I can attach my hose to the fitting on it without it engaging. It felt snug, but was not fully opening the valve. I pushed it on a little better, and got it to actually pressurize the system this time. It didn't take long before I blew the pipe off that I showed earlier with the shavings in it. That pipe is a 180 coming out of my intercooler and circling under the tow hook before entering through the snorkel hole by the AFM. I have to cut one end shorter than the other to make it fit like I need it to, and thus eliminating the bead on the pipe. I'm gonna have to have a bead put on that pipe to be able to get a good seal there, especially right before the 180. It's not fixed yet, but now I know what I have to do.
 

ForcedTorque

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No, that pipe has not come off before. I replaced it because I had dented it on a parking block. I suspected that the dent may have actually pierced it, but it didn't help to replace it. It has had the bead cut off from it to make it fit, and must have been the weakest link, because it blew off pretty quick with 20+ pounds pumping through it.

The NEO has been working for a couple of weeks now, ever since we got the timing straight. I have tuned it about as much as I'm going to try before I get a wideband or get it back on the dyno. I have been trying to figure out the boost problem before I take it back to the dyno. The boost leak and slowly climbing RPM's that I think I cured yesterday were the holdbacks there. Hopefully I can get a bead put back on the cut end of the pipe, and it will be tuning time.