Doward's 375rwhp Build.
- Thread starter Doward
- Start date
look very nice doward.
I was thinking about using that carb cleaner chem-dip to clean pistons, is the basket large enough to let one sit in it?
I was thinking about using that carb cleaner chem-dip to clean pistons, is the basket large enough to let one sit in it?
As long as the piston is taken off the rod, yes.
Every fastener on the outside of the motor is going to be stainless steel. Just finished bolting the water pump in place - sure is purty. Lemme go get a pic
Every fastener on the outside of the motor is going to be stainless steel. Just finished bolting the water pump in place - sure is purty. Lemme go get a pic
Glad to see the progress, Dow-
I'm hoping that next weekend is going to be the engine swap for me(FINALLY).
Then we can see how these pistons work : )
I'm hoping that next weekend is going to be the engine swap for me(FINALLY).
Then we can see how these pistons work : )
More progress! Finally got through cleaning the head, tapped the EGR (intake side) for a 3/8" NPT plug (didn't even have to drill!) - I will, however, need to drill the exhaust side.
*NOTE* Don't remove the EGR if you don't know what you are doing. I'll even give you a hint - if you are removing the EGR, with the stock USDM computer, you don't know what you are doing.
That said, Monday Beej is coming by so we can rebuild his wimpy 10 bolt to try to live behind his MS4 cammed LS1 on DRs, but I hope to finish rebuilding the transmission and engine for the Supra over spring break!
Besides, Beej is tired of picking on bikes... he wants a real race
On to the only thing you bastards really care about (pics):
A quick picture of my #12 casting head I'll be using:
Compared agains my old #10 casting head I had:
Mmmm, block:
Stock 200k springs on left, CompCams CCA-975 on the right:
Yes, they fit in the seats. It's just a tight squeeze, that's all:
All I'm doing is cleaning the seats on this head. Here's how you can DIY it:
You can see the seats nicely cleaned:
Slowly coming together:
Mmmm, studly:
Tapped to plug the EGR:
Sleep well, baby. Daddy will be back again after a couple hours of down time:
Christ, it's 2:30am - scratch that - 3:30am here, and I'm still in the garage working on the Supra. Man, I miss her!
*NOTE* Don't remove the EGR if you don't know what you are doing. I'll even give you a hint - if you are removing the EGR, with the stock USDM computer, you don't know what you are doing.
That said, Monday Beej is coming by so we can rebuild his wimpy 10 bolt to try to live behind his MS4 cammed LS1 on DRs, but I hope to finish rebuilding the transmission and engine for the Supra over spring break!
Besides, Beej is tired of picking on bikes... he wants a real race
On to the only thing you bastards really care about (pics):
A quick picture of my #12 casting head I'll be using:
Compared agains my old #10 casting head I had:
Mmmm, block:
Stock 200k springs on left, CompCams CCA-975 on the right:
Yes, they fit in the seats. It's just a tight squeeze, that's all:
All I'm doing is cleaning the seats on this head. Here's how you can DIY it:
You can see the seats nicely cleaned:
Slowly coming together:
Mmmm, studly:
Tapped to plug the EGR:
Sleep well, baby. Daddy will be back again after a couple hours of down time:
Christ, it's 2:30am - scratch that - 3:30am here, and I'm still in the garage working on the Supra. Man, I miss her!
Just finished helping my buddy completely rebuild his rear end (7.5" 10 bolt, 2000 Camaro SS)
First time either of us has rebuilt a rear. Zero whine while driving. He's still breaking in the gears (3.23 to 3.73s, with all new bearings)
Backlash is .009", and we've got the bearing preloads all set. What a bitch those carrier shims were, though :3d_frown:
Anyway, that car is out of my garage, so I can get back to work on what REALLY matters! :love: I'll be updating more over the coming few days!
First time either of us has rebuilt a rear. Zero whine while driving.
He's still breaking in the gears (3.23 to 3.73s, with all new bearings)Backlash is .009", and we've got the bearing preloads all set. What a bitch those carrier shims were, though :3d_frown:
Anyway, that car is out of my garage, so I can get back to work on what REALLY matters! :love: I'll be updating more over the coming few days!
Yoooooooo John break in some miles down to my shop! lol No seriously battery is charged ready for your electronic expertise. :biglaugh:
hey doward, care to share where you purchased those stainless fasteners?
the local fastenal only wants to sell thngs in large quantities for special order stuff (like stainless metric).
I am considering doing something similar to my motor. I wanted to have everything cadmium plated again, but at $175 for a "batch", I can live without it.
the local fastenal only wants to sell thngs in large quantities for special order stuff (like stainless metric).
I am considering doing something similar to my motor. I wanted to have everything cadmium plated again, but at $175 for a "batch", I can live without it.
buckshotglass
I love all your sounds.
Oh hahahah funny guy
Christ, 2am, and what am I doing? Modifying the head, of course!
Modified the back of the head to facilitate extra cooling flow from the block through the head:
Tapped the intake and exhaust EGR ports of the head, and sealed them with some 3/8" NPT plugs + High Temperature thread sealant:
EGR ports are self explanatory as to why I tapped/sealed them (intake/exhaust leaks, and running a standalone) but I wanted to share my thoughts on the cooling passage
The TSRM shows the coolant entering the block, and rising through the head. It is my *belief* that there *possibly* may be room for improvement in cooling around the block at cylinder #6.
Let me stress - I have ZERO empirical data to back this up, just going with my gut on this one
That said, as the coolant passes through the block, it feeds up to the head. This flow is restricted only in the size of the holes where the coolant passes through the head itself. Another way of saying this, is the flow is controlled by the ports in the head.
If you look at the front of the head, there is a single cooling passage there, allowing coolant to flow around the cylinder walls, and then up. At the back of the head, coolant can flow around the #6 cylinder wall, but only flow up to the head directly behind the valves.
This could *maybe* cause a condition, when low on coolant, of steam there in the shelf under the back of #6 (oddly enough, where the EGR cooler is), So, a small 1/4" hole to allow coolant to flow from behind #6, into the head. This should also help prevent steam pockets back there.
Again, this is all just me going by my gut - if I can get my hands on a thermometer, I would like to compare temp differences between a stock 7M, bypassed EGR cooler 7M, and my slightly modified head 7M.
Thoughts on this little hole, guys/gals?
Christ, 2am, and what am I doing? Modifying the head, of course!
Modified the back of the head to facilitate extra cooling flow from the block through the head:
Tapped the intake and exhaust EGR ports of the head, and sealed them with some 3/8" NPT plugs + High Temperature thread sealant:
EGR ports are self explanatory as to why I tapped/sealed them (intake/exhaust leaks, and running a standalone) but I wanted to share my thoughts on the cooling passage
The TSRM shows the coolant entering the block, and rising through the head. It is my *belief* that there *possibly* may be room for improvement in cooling around the block at cylinder #6.
Let me stress - I have ZERO empirical data to back this up, just going with my gut on this one
That said, as the coolant passes through the block, it feeds up to the head. This flow is restricted only in the size of the holes where the coolant passes through the head itself. Another way of saying this, is the flow is controlled by the ports in the head.
If you look at the front of the head, there is a single cooling passage there, allowing coolant to flow around the cylinder walls, and then up. At the back of the head, coolant can flow around the #6 cylinder wall, but only flow up to the head directly behind the valves.
This could *maybe* cause a condition, when low on coolant, of steam there in the shelf under the back of #6 (oddly enough, where the EGR cooler is), So, a small 1/4" hole to allow coolant to flow from behind #6, into the head. This should also help prevent steam pockets back there.
Again, this is all just me going by my gut - if I can get my hands on a thermometer, I would like to compare temp differences between a stock 7M, bypassed EGR cooler 7M, and my slightly modified head 7M.
Thoughts on this little hole, guys/gals?
Oh of all the damn things.
Intake camshaft oil clearances = 0.0017"
Exhaust camshaft oil clearances = 0.03+"
Exhaust camshaft oil journals = 26.86mm thick.
Jeff = to the rescue, with a spare 7M N/A exhaust camshaft he's got
Intake camshaft oil clearances = 0.0017"
Exhaust camshaft oil clearances = 0.03+"
Exhaust camshaft oil journals = 26.86mm thick.
Jeff = to the rescue, with a spare 7M N/A exhaust camshaft he's got
The Head Mod seems like a good move however like you said only testing will prove this. What is the point in installing a plug on the intake side of the egr cooler blockoff since that port just flows to atmosphere both ways when the cooler plate is removed. Or is there something else going on there?
BJ
BJ
Haven't actually spent any time on the Cooling system other than finding pickups and returns for my fuel system and adding the EWP to overcome any high speed cavitation and low speed lack of flow.
I'll be interested to see if opening the rear port makes a difference, probably be a good idea to grab an IR temp gun and run it on the dyno and shoot it along the head.
I'll be interested to see if opening the rear port makes a difference, probably be a good idea to grab an IR temp gun and run it on the dyno and shoot it along the head.
Exactly the plan I'd like to compare that to a completely stock 7M (with EGR still on) and find someone that has a JDM engine to compare against. I'd like to be certain any temp change is solely due to the cooling passage, and not the EGR being gone.
I'd like to compare that to a completely stock 7M (with EGR still on) and find someone that has a JDM engine to compare against. I'd like to be certain any temp change is solely due to the cooling passage, and not the EGR being gone.