Doward's 375rwhp Build.
- Thread starter Doward
- Start date
Yep! Appreciate the help, man 
I'll have pics later of the mainshaft all separated. Gonna start measuring everything tomorrow, and begin re-assembly after I get some new c-clips from Elmhurst
I'll have pics later of the mainshaft all separated. Gonna start measuring everything tomorrow, and begin re-assembly after I get some new c-clips from Elmhurst 
Jaguar_5 said:What happened to all the pictures here??
Any updates?
My baby is finally in a garage
:love: 
and
You can see the Probe Industries forged pistons, ATI Super Damper, Eagle rods, Hella H4 enclosures, 3" Magnaflow stainless steel muffler, wiring loom, and balljoints/tie rods in the closet in the back
I've got to call Florida Performance and Speed Machine back in the morning, to set up an appointment to bring the block and rotating assembly to them!
PHY2048/MAC2313/CHM2045 are taking up all my free time, though
Probe pistons and probe wheels eh? lol
That closet looks like a stairway to heaven.
Can't wait to see some more progress now that you got the garage!
That closet looks like a stairway to heaven.
Can't wait to see some more progress now that you got the garage!
Oh, btw - no self respecting car enthusiast could go through Georgia, and not stop off at the Summit Retail Store, right?
90w/130w H4 Hella Bulbs, Dual 5 post relay system for the headlight re-wire, Summit Universal DIY 8mm Wires, and a big ol' bottle of ARP Assembly Lube.
Also went ahead and snagged 12qts of Redline 5w30, for after break-in
Bryan's telling me under 3 weeks till he completes the machine work.
Oh, btw, here's what he's doing -
Surface head
Surface block
Bore/Hone block using torque plate (which I'll be sending to JDSupra as soon as Bryan's done)
Align-bore mains
Zero balance the ENTIRE rotating assembly (down to the flywheel and pressure plate bolts)
Mic the rods
Mic all the bearings for clearances
Mic the Pistons
Re-building a brand new stock oil pump - he's got a couple tricks that he likes to do on these oil pumps
Verify head flatness on all surfaces
Bead blast a 1/2 ton of stuff I handed him
Polish the crank
Should be interesting
90w/130w H4 Hella Bulbs, Dual 5 post relay system for the headlight re-wire, Summit Universal DIY 8mm Wires, and a big ol' bottle of ARP Assembly Lube.
Also went ahead and snagged 12qts of Redline 5w30, for after break-in
Bryan's telling me under 3 weeks till he completes the machine work.
Oh, btw, here's what he's doing -
Surface head
Surface block
Bore/Hone block using torque plate (which I'll be sending to JDSupra as soon as Bryan's done)
Align-bore mains
Zero balance the ENTIRE rotating assembly (down to the flywheel and pressure plate bolts)
Mic the rods
Mic all the bearings for clearances
Mic the Pistons
Re-building a brand new stock oil pump - he's got a couple tricks that he likes to do on these oil pumps
Verify head flatness on all surfaces
Bead blast a 1/2 ton of stuff I handed him
Polish the crank
Should be interesting
Yep, I dropped those off as well. Bryan told me he's never had anyone mention the tensioner specifically, but he also told me that he believes firmly in torquing the entire front timing plate down, before boring. I have a feeling that may even be a step over the tensioner by itself
Ummmm the tensioner bolts through the timing case so it's a given that it's installed...
The Tensioner pulls the front cylinder half a thou.
The Tensioner pulls the front cylinder half a thou.
Yeah, stupid moment for me there, lol. Don't ask me why, but I was thinking you could bolt the tensioner on without the plate. :3d_frown:
On the bright side, I got the last piece of the Supra from the old place - the hood
Thank God, next weekend I can finally get back to work PROPERLY on the Supra (had to completely finish cleaning the old place, so I can get my security deposit back)
On the bright side, I got the last piece of the Supra from the old place - the hood
Thank God, next weekend I can finally get back to work PROPERLY on the Supra (had to completely finish cleaning the old place, so I can get my security deposit back
)FINALLY SOME TIME TO WORK ON MY BABY!
I know it doesn't seem like much, but I finally swapped out my wiper linkage, put the new motor in, got the ABS actuator back in, and finished *all* of the wiring on the passenger side of the body harness!
here's the wiring for the A/C aux fan, the horns, and that sensor thing for the hood:
Gotta look up the wiring diagram of what wire does what, so that I may do my re-wire of the new Hella 90/130 watt headlights.
Slowly getting the driver's side wiring complete. As you can see, I need to fix that main power wire from the battery, as well as my altenator harness pigtail.
New N/A hatch with ZERO rust that I finally got around to picking up from Jeff.
So tomorrow, I'll be finishing the driver's side body wiring harness, doing my re-wire of the headlights, and hopefully completing my electrical fun.
Then I'm replacing my lower ball joints, rack and pinion, and outer tie-rod ends.
After that, I'm going to sit down and start going through the TEC-2 harness assembly I have here (which I'll snap a pic of tomorrow for you all)
I know it doesn't seem like much, but I finally swapped out my wiper linkage, put the new motor in, got the ABS actuator back in, and finished *all* of the wiring on the passenger side of the body harness!
here's the wiring for the A/C aux fan, the horns, and that sensor thing for the hood:
Gotta look up the wiring diagram of what wire does what, so that I may do my re-wire of the new Hella 90/130 watt headlights.
Slowly getting the driver's side wiring complete. As you can see, I need to fix that main power wire from the battery, as well as my altenator harness pigtail.
New N/A hatch with ZERO rust that I finally got around to picking up from Jeff.
So tomorrow, I'll be finishing the driver's side body wiring harness, doing my re-wire of the headlights, and hopefully completing my electrical fun.
Then I'm replacing my lower ball joints, rack and pinion, and outer tie-rod ends.
After that, I'm going to sit down and start going through the TEC-2 harness assembly I have here (which I'll snap a pic of tomorrow for you all
)Lunch break, so here's a quick update on my morning's work.
Got about 95% of the wiring done on the driver's side. Got the main feed from the battery fixed with some 8 gauge wire.
Quick word to the wise - soldering 8 gauge wire together with a 30 watt soldering iron sucks. But I got it done, got the solder to finally wick throughout the joint, then heatshrinked it + electrical tape
Next is to fix the altenator pigtail, and the headlight re-wire.
Got about 95% of the wiring done on the driver's side. Got the main feed from the battery fixed with some 8 gauge wire.
Quick word to the wise - soldering 8 gauge wire together with a 30 watt soldering iron sucks. But I got it done, got the solder to finally wick throughout the joint, then heatshrinked it + electrical tape
Next is to fix the altenator pigtail, and the headlight re-wire.
Doward said:Quick word to the wise - soldering 8 gauge wire together with a 30 watt soldering iron sucks. But I got it done, got the solder to finally wick throughout the joint, then heatshrinked it + electrical tape
LOL, brings back memories...when it happened to me, I got frustrated and used one of those small torches :biglaugh: Worked great too!!!
Finally! Altenator pigtail is fixed, and the driver's front wiring is done. I need to do the back (by the brake master cylinder) but dammit - I ran out of 1/4" blue loom
I'll have to get another kit from Summit, then finish the wiring.In the meantime, I think I know where I want to mount the TEC-2
Going to build a platform off the original bracket that held the stock ignitor (not a bad 'ignition upgrade' lol)The wiring is complete enough now, though, that I can go ahead and put the motor back in, once I hear back that it is done!
Next will be the headlight rewire + dual relays.
No pics right now, but I've got the relays bolted in place, got the trigger wiring done, got the low beam wiring run, and the high beam wiring run. Now I need to run the ground wire, hook up the new heavy duty pigtails, and wire it all to the relays.
Here's a quick rundown of what I did - I'M TIRED AND HAVE A HEADACHE - IF I DID SOMETHING STUPID PLEASE POINT IT OUT :3d_frown:
Ran the passenger side wiring over to the driver's side.
Wired the passenger and driver side low beam line together, and ran to the trigger of Relay 1
Wired the passenger and driver side high beam line together, and ran to the trigger of Relay 2
Wired the passenger side ground to the ground trigger of Relay 1
Wired the driver side ground to the ground trigger of Relay 2
All wiring up to this point is 16 gauge, to trigger the relays.
Ran 12 gauge wiring for the feed to the lights. I'll be running 2 130 watt bulbs off a single 12 gauge wire. Will this be ok? 260 watts / 12 volts = 22 amps. Higher voltage will have the same wattage pulling less amps, and I seem to recall that 12 gauge is good to 25 amps, right? It's about a 5' distance, and I'm too fucking tired to look it up.
I'll hit this again in the morning.
Here's a quick rundown of what I did - I'M TIRED AND HAVE A HEADACHE - IF I DID SOMETHING STUPID PLEASE POINT IT OUT :3d_frown:
Ran the passenger side wiring over to the driver's side.
Wired the passenger and driver side low beam line together, and ran to the trigger of Relay 1
Wired the passenger and driver side high beam line together, and ran to the trigger of Relay 2
Wired the passenger side ground to the ground trigger of Relay 1
Wired the driver side ground to the ground trigger of Relay 2
All wiring up to this point is 16 gauge, to trigger the relays.
Ran 12 gauge wiring for the feed to the lights. I'll be running 2 130 watt bulbs off a single 12 gauge wire. Will this be ok? 260 watts / 12 volts = 22 amps. Higher voltage will have the same wattage pulling less amps, and I seem to recall that 12 gauge is good to 25 amps, right? It's about a 5' distance, and I'm too fucking tired to look it up.
I'll hit this again in the morning.
If I'm reading this right both lights are on 1 relay?
I prefer to keep L/R - H/L so if you lose one (blown fuse) you don't lose the pair.
I prefer to keep L/R - H/L so if you lose one (blown fuse) you don't lose the pair.