Dok's E85 powered 2jzge-T build
- Thread starter dok33
- Start date
Dok,
Awesome work really makes me wanna dust of the 2j I bought for a hundred buck along time ago and start collecting parts. Then I can finally retire the good ole 7m. What was (if you don't mind sharing) total cost? I have the motor and harness. That's it. I'm trying to find a ball park on how much it would cost me to go 2jz NA-t. I really really enjoyed the read. Thank you for sharing. How did the sandwich plate oil feed work out?
Cheers josh.
Awesome work really makes me wanna dust of the 2j I bought for a hundred buck along time ago and start collecting parts. Then I can finally retire the good ole 7m. What was (if you don't mind sharing) total cost? I have the motor and harness. That's it. I'm trying to find a ball park on how much it would cost me to go 2jz NA-t. I really really enjoyed the read. Thank you for sharing. How did the sandwich plate oil feed work out?
Cheers josh.
Thanks for all the comments! The sandwich plate is working fine, haven't had any leaks or anything and the turbo is getting plenty of oil.
As far as cost, I've got alot of extra stuff so my total is inflated, but I don't think it would be unfeasible to do it for <$3k, especially if your 7M is already modded as most parts will transfer over. I also got about $2k for all of my stock 7M stuff (2 motors worth).
Basic swap w/some maintenance items would be:
Motor $200-$700 (paid $150 for mine after selling extra stuff)
jza70 bellhousing $300
1jz flywheel $130 (what I paid for mine), lightweight ~$350
BIC motor mounts $175
1jz PS Hose $65
1j ARP fw bolts $32
ARZ oil drain fitting, tap, line/fittings $70
DM FPD delete line $60
7M Plug Wires (1 set I had fit, new ones from DM were too short for the 2j) $60
Plugs $10
Fluids (coolant, syn trans/diff, oil etc.) $80
Serp Belt $15
TT headgasket, valve gaskets etc. $150
Timing belt $25
Thermostat $10
FMIC Kit $300 (mine is a modded Godspeed 7M kit)
Type-S BOV $35
935 DIY Exhaust w/cat, flex pipe etc $350
Downpipe parts $150
MP T70 $550
T4 Manifold $120
50mm Wastegate $80
Authentic HKS WG spring $50 (the 11psi spring in my knockoff WG was holding about 4psi :biglaugh
4AN oil feed line $55
All that comes out to <$3k assuming you already have a 7M ECU and harness, clutch etc. assuming I didn't miss anything. You can also pick up the XSPower 2j turbo kit for $1650 instead of piecing everything together
Any fuel mods like Lex/550s and SAFC or MAFT can transfer over. Can also use a 7M exhaust modded to fit the DP and IC kit if you use the stock IM on the 2j, just have to cut the 3000 pipe portion a little.
As far as cost, I've got alot of extra stuff so my total is inflated, but I don't think it would be unfeasible to do it for <$3k, especially if your 7M is already modded as most parts will transfer over. I also got about $2k for all of my stock 7M stuff (2 motors worth).
Basic swap w/some maintenance items would be:
Motor $200-$700 (paid $150 for mine after selling extra stuff)
jza70 bellhousing $300
1jz flywheel $130 (what I paid for mine), lightweight ~$350
BIC motor mounts $175
1jz PS Hose $65
1j ARP fw bolts $32
ARZ oil drain fitting, tap, line/fittings $70
DM FPD delete line $60
7M Plug Wires (1 set I had fit, new ones from DM were too short for the 2j) $60
Plugs $10
Fluids (coolant, syn trans/diff, oil etc.) $80
Serp Belt $15
TT headgasket, valve gaskets etc. $150
Timing belt $25
Thermostat $10
FMIC Kit $300 (mine is a modded Godspeed 7M kit)
Type-S BOV $35
935 DIY Exhaust w/cat, flex pipe etc $350
Downpipe parts $150
MP T70 $550
T4 Manifold $120
50mm Wastegate $80
Authentic HKS WG spring $50 (the 11psi spring in my knockoff WG was holding about 4psi :biglaugh
4AN oil feed line $55
All that comes out to <$3k assuming you already have a 7M ECU and harness, clutch etc. assuming I didn't miss anything. You can also pick up the XSPower 2j turbo kit for $1650 instead of piecing everything together
Any fuel mods like Lex/550s and SAFC or MAFT can transfer over. Can also use a 7M exhaust modded to fit the DP and IC kit if you use the stock IM on the 2j, just have to cut the 3000 pipe portion a little.
Getting 'er back together this week, although I've been distracted talking to this girl I met the past couple of days :biglaugh:
Check valve and filter are in and the fuel system pressure checked ok. Getting some weird behavior from the COR, my fuel pumps are kicking on at weird times. My AFC isn't coming on either, tested it when I first got it and everything was fine, just rechecked the wiring and still no dice. Still investigating and bolting stuff back on, hopefully have some pics of it back together soon!!
Check valve and filter are in and the fuel system pressure checked ok. Getting some weird behavior from the COR, my fuel pumps are kicking on at weird times. My AFC isn't coming on either, tested it when I first got it and everything was fine, just rechecked the wiring and still no dice. Still investigating and bolting stuff back on, hopefully have some pics of it back together soon!!
Noodz or ban!
Does the COR act up with the second relay detached? Perhaps that 30A relay is too much draw on the FC line of the ECU. Might add another smaller relay inline to trigger of the output of the COR instead of the FC line (it would be simpler if you could only make the relay board use a high-side trigger).
Does the COR act up with the second relay detached? Perhaps that 30A relay is too much draw on the FC line of the ECU. Might add another smaller relay inline to trigger of the output of the COR instead of the FC line (it would be simpler if you could only make the relay board use a high-side trigger).
Haha, crazy asshole.
Have to check it, not sure if the stock FP is kicking on without the relay hooked up. Can't hear it over the 044, haven't tested it without the other hooked up. Now I know why Scott said his car sounds like a big vibrator going down the road...
edit: just figured it out, whatever line we tapped into for the relay signal is grounded when ign is off so the 044 kicks on when the ignition is closed but not the stock pump. Did we hit the wrong signal or do I need to look elsewhere?
Have to check it, not sure if the stock FP is kicking on without the relay hooked up. Can't hear it over the 044, haven't tested it without the other hooked up. Now I know why Scott said his car sounds like a big vibrator going down the road...
edit: just figured it out, whatever line we tapped into for the relay signal is grounded when ign is off so the 044 kicks on when the ignition is closed but not the stock pump. Did we hit the wrong signal or do I need to look elsewhere?
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Yup, should bring the ladies from all around :biglaugh:
Think I figured out the SAFC mystery, didn't have any of the engine bay wiring hooked up so I'm thinking it was missing the grounds...
Think I figured out the SAFC mystery, didn't have any of the engine bay wiring hooked up so I'm thinking it was missing the grounds...
Haha, not yet unfortunately. Broke the damn temp switch trying to put the wire on it because I'm a moron and forgot to hook it up before I put the upper intake on Hopefully I can get one tomorrow dammit. After that just need some longer bolts for my lexus afm and I should be good to go...
Hopefully I can get one tomorrow dammit. After that just need some longer bolts for my lexus afm and I should be good to go...
Got the sensor and bolts, my new goal is to have it running and hopefully inspected by the cruise Saturday. Tuning is now a bonus lol, although it shouldn't take long with the AFC.
On another note, went to a classic bike show this weekend and got the bug. May be buying my buddies' cafe'd '72 CB750 It doesn't run very well so there's really no risk in me riding it instead of working on the Supra this week...
On another note, went to a classic bike show this weekend and got the bug. May be buying my buddies' cafe'd '72 CB750
It doesn't run very well so there's really no risk in me riding it instead of working on the Supra this week...
It's aliiiive (again). Not running well but it's moving under it's own power again after 2 months!! Fuel system seems to be working well so that's good I'm getting an AFM code and CPS code, CPS plug needs to be rewired have to bribe jon with some beer and food to come do his wiring magic Not sure about the AFM, was working fine before I swapped the brains into my lex housing. Need to investigate...
I'm getting an AFM code and CPS code, CPS plug needs to be rewired have to bribe jon with some beer and food to come do his wiring magic Not sure about the AFM, was working fine before I swapped the brains into my lex housing. Need to investigate...
Had a thought (I know, scary) on the way to work today, I wonder if the AFC lost it's AFM setting when my battery was disconnected and that's what's throwing the AFM code. Have to czech it out when I get home. Seems like it was running in limp mode, hopefully clearing up the 2 code issues will fix it up. Also can't get my idle AFR above 10.8:1 with the 680s in so it looks like I may have to go ahead and switch to E85 if I want to have a shot at passing inspection...
Got rid of the codes, holy crap 12psi is awesome Took a trip around the block and though my clutch was slipping until I realized that it was the tires spinning through 2nd :biglaugh: 12psi >> 8psi fer sure
My wideband is acting up, going to let it sit overnight and calibrate tomorrow and hopefully that'll fix it. Lots of little things to finish and still need to pass emissions, but progress is being made!!
Took a trip around the block and though my clutch was slipping until I realized that it was the tires spinning through 2nd :biglaugh: 12psi >> 8psi fer sureMy wideband is acting up, going to let it sit overnight and calibrate tomorrow and hopefully that'll fix it. Lots of little things to finish and still need to pass emissions, but progress is being made!!
LOL Jay, 17psi would probably = BHG again so I'll stick with 12 for now
I'm using an LC-1. Think I figured out the issue, it goes into a calibration when it first comes up if power is disconnected and I immediately started the car and probably fubared the cal. Unfortunately I couldn't get it to connect to my laptop again last night or this morning, stupid ebay usb to serial adapter. Gonna go home at lunch and mess with it some more.
I'm using an LC-1. Think I figured out the issue, it goes into a calibration when it first comes up if power is disconnected and I immediately started the car and probably fubared the cal. Unfortunately I couldn't get it to connect to my laptop again last night or this morning, stupid ebay usb to serial adapter. Gonna go home at lunch and mess with it some more.