My surge problem was not boost related. It would surge with the cruise set on a flat road. The AFR would run high-low-high-low in 1 sec intervals. I'm sure it's "just a setting", but I spent 10 minutes looking at 4.63 and had to reflash to 4.4 for the time being. Now that the engine is broken in, I'm ready to get 4.6+ running.
My new turbo dieing was related to a bad drain line. It's been replaced, and I'm awaiting a rebuild/upgrade (BB FTW) The MAFT-PRO boost control is pretty easy to use. It's almost the same as the AVC-r. The 'problem' (for me) was that the start duty default was too low, like 20% and my actuator was too loose. I tightened the actuator to 13psi without the MAFTPRO. When the start duty was 20% (low), nothing seemed to work as described. I brought that up to 60-80% and everything started to work as the book described.
Based on what I know about the AVC-r and the MAFTPRO, I'll toss the following intot he mix and see what turns up:
What the MAFTPRO manual should say about boost control is set your actuator to the minimum boost you want to run WITHOUT MAFTPRO correction. Then set your target PSI to what you want (19psi), set Start PSI to 3 psi less than that (16psi), set start duty to 50%, set your TPS and RPM to slightly above normal cruise, set your gain to "10".
****This means you will build boost quick on the bottom (until Start PSI is met), but the actuator will start opening too soon, and too quickly. <- safe
Do a third gear pull and log your boost. The line for solenoid will spike when the turbo is trying to build boost (100% solenoid duty). AFTER THAT - If the line goes up raise your start duty. If the line down, lower your duty. Try to get a line that starts out fairly level. If you boost goes to target and then drops raise start duty. If you boost spikes, lower start duty.
****Adjusting start duty adjusts the amount of air getting to the solenoid/actuator *initially*. The gain controls how quick the solenoid can self adjust thereafter. For now, you want to adjust this percentage to get a level line after the spike.
Once the solenoid line is fairly level after the spike, raise the Start PSI until you get a little boost spike. Lower it a bit to remove the boost spike.
****Similar to the above. On a large, laggy turbo you can build boost fast, then slam the actuator with alot of air at the last minute to avoid a boost spike (High Start PSI, low start duty). Alternatively, you can apply less air initally but apply it earlier to prevent boost spike (low Start PSI, High start duty). It may be desireable to do the latter to take the edge off a really hard hitting turbo.
Lower your gain to ~4 and hopefully you'll enjoy stable boost.
**** Lower the gain to ~4 and make sure your boost stays stable. If the gain is too high, boost can fluctuate. If it's too low, boost may creep up/down.
That's my take on the AVC-r / MAFTPRO boost control. Comments welcome....
My new turbo dieing was related to a bad drain line. It's been replaced, and I'm awaiting a rebuild/upgrade (BB FTW) The MAFT-PRO boost control is pretty easy to use. It's almost the same as the AVC-r. The 'problem' (for me) was that the start duty default was too low, like 20% and my actuator was too loose. I tightened the actuator to 13psi without the MAFTPRO. When the start duty was 20% (low), nothing seemed to work as described. I brought that up to 60-80% and everything started to work as the book described.
Based on what I know about the AVC-r and the MAFTPRO, I'll toss the following intot he mix and see what turns up:
What the MAFTPRO manual should say about boost control is set your actuator to the minimum boost you want to run WITHOUT MAFTPRO correction. Then set your target PSI to what you want (19psi), set Start PSI to 3 psi less than that (16psi), set start duty to 50%, set your TPS and RPM to slightly above normal cruise, set your gain to "10".
****This means you will build boost quick on the bottom (until Start PSI is met), but the actuator will start opening too soon, and too quickly. <- safe
Do a third gear pull and log your boost. The line for solenoid will spike when the turbo is trying to build boost (100% solenoid duty). AFTER THAT - If the line goes up raise your start duty. If the line down, lower your duty. Try to get a line that starts out fairly level. If you boost goes to target and then drops raise start duty. If you boost spikes, lower start duty.
****Adjusting start duty adjusts the amount of air getting to the solenoid/actuator *initially*. The gain controls how quick the solenoid can self adjust thereafter. For now, you want to adjust this percentage to get a level line after the spike.
Once the solenoid line is fairly level after the spike, raise the Start PSI until you get a little boost spike. Lower it a bit to remove the boost spike.
****Similar to the above. On a large, laggy turbo you can build boost fast, then slam the actuator with alot of air at the last minute to avoid a boost spike (High Start PSI, low start duty). Alternatively, you can apply less air initally but apply it earlier to prevent boost spike (low Start PSI, High start duty). It may be desireable to do the latter to take the edge off a really hard hitting turbo.
Lower your gain to ~4 and hopefully you'll enjoy stable boost.
**** Lower the gain to ~4 and make sure your boost stays stable. If the gain is too high, boost can fluctuate. If it's too low, boost may creep up/down.
That's my take on the AVC-r / MAFTPRO boost control. Comments welcome....
... any i hae mess with all the vesrion and i find that my car runs best on 4.20. my pro is sold old it came with version 4.01.. lol..