Changing my head gasket, me asking for your help while doing this

[Numba1Stuna]

You should be able to reuse your retainers granted they are in good shape, I'm reusing mine. Just the seals, and get the ones with the compression spring around the top, that provides a greater seal.

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[IJ.]

Make sure you can get hold of some "condoms" when fitting the new seals or you run the risk of slicing off the lip in them and ending up with 24 leaking seals...

 

[Doat]

I think the stem seals I got from Flepro are the ones you were talking about numba1stuna, they have a tiny spring at the top and they came with 2 plastic tubes, which I believe are the condoms you were talking about 1J.

Now these I don't know what they are for

 

[IJ.]

That's them make sure you practice "Safe Sealing"

 

[Doat]

How do I use those condoms? unless Numba1stuna's way is good by using a small enough deep well socket and pushing them in. Also how can I clean the crud off of the face of my valves? That really worries me unless that is normal.

 

[Numba1Stuna]

I used wire brush drill attachment to clean off the valves, the cone shaped ones work best. It's time consuming, but clean up those valves. Do you plan on lapping them as well? You should while you got em out... It was a pain in the ass, but makes for better compression and seal.

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[Doat]

I saw your video on that as well but I don't have that suction cup stick thing or any suction cup that small and if I can get one at any auto parts store for cheap, what compound did you use for that? I also did notice the difference in sound in your video so I think I'll be able to tell when it's been lapped and smooth.

 

[Numba1Stuna]

Oh, it's super cheap man. The tool was like 5 bucks at Autozone, they have the valve lapping compound there too. You probably won't spend more then $15. Some shops charge $400+ to lap them, get a good feeling when it's done, which took me about 12 hours to do all 24... Lol.

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[Doat]

I was hoping you would say they sell the tool at some auto parts store lol. YES!!, so soft wire brush drill attachment, clean the valve area with it, replace the stem seals and use lube on the seals, then lap the valve seat. Is that right?

 

[Numba1Stuna]

I was hoping you would say they sell the tool at some auto parts store lol. YES!!, so soft wire brush drill attachment, clean the valve area with it, replace the stem seals and use lube on the seals, then lap the valve seat. Is that right?

Clean the valve itself too. The flat end, the stem and the 45° angle as well. The exhaust side will be the dirtiest and have the most baked on shit, but persevere through it and make em pretty. Then also clean the seating surface on the head with it too. Then lube and replace the seals, lube the valve and spread on the lapping compound and begin lapping. Also try to install the valves in the same spot they were taken out, they seat better.

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[Doat]

So pretty much use the wire brush to clean everything, the head, valves, I assume the block as well, then replace the valve seals with lube, then lap each valve, then it's head gasket time. Sounds good, I really appreciate the help I expected doing work on the valves was a lot more difficult but your videos had me in disbelief lol.

Would this brush work? The others are cup type brushes.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...53&langId=-1&keyword=wire+brush&storeId=10051

 

[Numba1Stuna]

That one might work alright, it will get down into the head good. I actually have a shorter cup shaped one. My fear for that specific one is the longer bristles may be more flimsy and not allow you to use much pressure before bowing out. I'll take a pic tomorrow of mine. Oh, and no problem at all. I'm more then happy to help

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[Doat]

These seem like they would be better then or other wire cup brushes
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25e...53&langId=-1&keyword=wire+brush&storeId=10051
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25e...53&langId=-1&keyword=wire+brush&storeId=10051

 

[Numba1Stuna]

Those ones look better. You can push harder with those. I used the same thing to clean the block. Cleaned up like a dream with carb cleaner and the wire.

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[Doat]

Sweet, one more question before you go lol. Yesterday I turned my head over to check the valves and I had my cams out so a few buckets fell out. Now I looked at all of them and did not notice a difference between them, does it matter if they are mixed up or are there certain buckets for certain valves?

 

[Numba1Stuna]

Nope, not at all. But you are going to want to measure the clearance between the removable shims on top of the buckets and the cam, once the cam is back in. There are certain clearances they have to be within, and it's different for intake side and exhaust side.

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[Doat]

Whoooo awesome, I assume the clearance tolerances are in the TSRM? I want to clean my head out from metal shavings, can I pour oil on it and let it drain out?

 

[Numba1Stuna]

Yep, they should be in there, but if not... Intake side clearance is between .006-.010, & .008-.012 on the exhaust side.

And oil works good. I'm going to pressure wash mine, along with my oil pan this weekend. Maybe helicoil the head too.

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[Doat]

Sweet that will be a huge relief not worrying about metal shavings running through the motor before getting to the filter. Thanks I will update the thread tomorrow how things go.

 

[jonahs_supra]

i didnt think somebody made a video but it will help

make sure you put the valves back in where they came out
post pictures of valve seats...mainly exhaust...
to make sure you dont have any burnt valves and can fix it without having to remove head again
exhaust valves tend to pit on the seat face