Changing my head gasket, me asking for your help while doing this

Doat

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Feb 6, 2012
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I got everything today but I am going to change out the brush for a copper brush since it's softer but it is raining like crazy here at the moment.
 

Doat

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Feb 6, 2012
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UPDATE:
I cleaned up the valves and I think they look good, what do you guys think? Now I am at the point where I can remove the valves to do that I first remove the buckets, then hammer the spring using a socket like in the video from Numba1stuna, take out the retainer, pull off the spring then the valve comes out right? I set up a cardboard type container for all of this so I can keep track of which valve, etc. goes where.
I was not able to get all of the carbon build up off so some may seem like they are scratched up but it's just carbon build up that I can't get off because I am worried of damaging the valve by pushing on the brush too hard.
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and my cardboard container, which I just realized needs a couple of tweaks to separate everything completely
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Numba1Stuna

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Apr 18, 2012
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That brush won't hurt the valves. But, you got the process right. Another way to categorize the valves is using a Sharpie, and writing "I1" for intake one, "e2" for exhaust two etc.

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Doat

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I have them sitting in that container in the same order they are on the cylinder head, I will be taking pictures of the seats I just wiped them down but I am waiting for my last camera battery to finish charging.

While the pics are uploading, the seats just look like they have a little bit of carbon build up on them. How do I remove the old valve stem seals? Do I yank them out with needle nose pliers?
 
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Doat

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UPDATE: I just simply wiped off the seats and snapped the pictures, it got dark outside so I had to use flash and a lamp. I carried the cylinder head inside so I can start lapping it. Did you guys want me to take pics of each set of valves to show the seats?
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Numba1Stuna

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You want to make sure you get all that greasy grime off the 45° valve seat on both the head and valves before lapping. That way a good mating surface can be cut with the compound.

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Doat

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So when I remove the old valve stem seals do I just rip them out with needle nose pliers?

Update:
So far it has been going well, I paid very close attention to the videos and listened to the sound of the valve as I lapped them, didn't take long to get that smooth sound with these intake valves but tonight I will get to doing the exhaust valves.
This is a valve after lapping
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This is a valve before lapping
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This is the valve seat after lapping
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Numba1Stuna

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Those look good. You don't want shiny, that's where it's buffed itself. That whole contact surface needs to be that rough grey color. Good job so far man.

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Doat

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Thank you couldn't have done it properly without your videos, I am visual learner so having something to see and compare to really helps. Now, removing the old stem seals do I just yank them out?
 

Numba1Stuna

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I'm glad my videos helped you. Yeah, you can yank them out with needle noses. That's what I did.

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Doat

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Should I use a small wire brush to scrape off the build up around the valve in those hard to reach places or is it pointless? Also how can I clean off the rest of the gunk on the cylinder head and block? It feels smooth but how can I remove it or does it matter as long as it feels smooth? I scraped off what I could with a gasket scraper and used sandpaper on the block to gently get rid of everything that I could.
 
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Numba1Stuna

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Remember that one wire attachment you showed a pic of that was longer and cone shaped? That would work perfect for getting down inside that valve seat area. Or a small wire brush. I'm going to blueprint my head with a dremel to remove the unnecessary flaky casting, then power wash it off. For the block you can use that cup shaped brush to clean the grime off, that's how I cleaned mine then painted it.

On a side note, I ordered some Helicoil yesterday for the exhaust side. How are your exhaust threads looking?

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Doat

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Those drill wire brushes won't damage the block and head?

My exhaust threads seem fine from what I can tell, some of the studs did come out with the nut though.
 

Numba1Stuna

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You can run it lightly and not risk damaging it. You just don't want a lot of pressure against the aluminum with hard/firm bristles.

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Numba1Stuna

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Oh, and on the block, you can push as hard as you want to clean it real good. I used carb cleaner and the cup brush on the block.

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