Changing my head gasket, me asking for your help while doing this
- Thread starter Doat
- Start date
Yea my guy has a good relationship with the machine shop, so the price he can get is cheap and the work is great lots of my friends who build their V8s and such get their head work done with him and have never had problems and were always happy. If the head is flat could I get away with replacing the gasket for now and later on getting that kind of work done? I don't mind removing the head again especially since I know the process better and I just want to get the car running again lol.
I was cleaning the head and block today when a friend highly recommended that I coat them with Marvel Mystery Oil and let them sit overnight then wipe it off the next day, so I did but here is how the block looked before.
I have heard that if you have a manual transmission you can put it in gear and the crank pulley won't turn and you can remove the bolt that way, is that true?
you can try. put it in 5th gear and apply the ebrake very tightly. also, make sure you block your wheels, just in case.
you will probably need a cheater bar, maybe a 3 foot length.
personally, i prefer the starter bump method, but i suppose it is riskier.
you will probably need a cheater bar, maybe a 3 foot length.
personally, i prefer the starter bump method, but i suppose it is riskier.
OR
put in 5th gear
have someone press the brake pedal
then break it loose
as far as coating the pistons and walls
when im doing a headgasket and the head wont be back from the machinist for a while
i just put a thin coat of 5w30 oil on the cylinder walls
put in 5th gear
have someone press the brake pedal
then break it loose
as far as coating the pistons and walls
when im doing a headgasket and the head wont be back from the machinist for a while
i just put a thin coat of 5w30 oil on the cylinder walls
The problem I have now is I need to check it for flatness to decide if I need to get resurfaced or not and I don't have a straight edge except for a metal T square but not sure how that would work.
Apparently I have a valve stem leak according the mechanic I usually go to, he saw the pictures I posted of my head and said there is a valve stem leaking oil. Are these difficult to replace? I also found a video on this forum or supraforums of a member lapping his valves and it seems easy to do, http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&v=0BCh9CMRdkw&NR=1 that is the video I am talking about, should I also do this as well? I already have the valve seals it came with the gasket kit so I just need to know if it's easy to replace or if I need special tools.
you said your machinist is doing a valve job. he will have the valve train disassembled to do this. have him change the valve stem seals before he reassembles. a valve job should also include cleaning up the valves, guides, and seats, saving you from having to do anything with the valve train. if the machinist does a valve adjustment as well, he should give you back a clean and fresh head, ready to be installed and run.
The thing is I can't really do that work at the moment I'd be able to do it in the future but I fear by then the block and head would rust or corrode unless I keep coating them with oil and surran wrap. Also judging from the videos I have seen and a friend of mine used to build Supra motors, JZs mostly, and he said it's easy to do. If I replace the seals would I have to worry about clearances and adjusting them or is it like what the guy did in the video, just remove the parts, replace the seal, then put them back in?
if you dont know how to replace a valve stem seal then i would step away from the car til you have the money to have a professional do it
each valve clearance is adjusted using shims that sit ontop of lifter buckets
a simple coating of oil will last a good ways
i have a 7mgte block sitting in my garage for 2yrs now...no pistons, crank etc...
once every 3 months ill slab a light coat of oil on everything...no problems as far as rust
do you have a OHV valve spring tool and small asian hands? small hands are needed to put keepers back in cause its tight lol
each valve clearance is adjusted using shims that sit ontop of lifter buckets
a simple coating of oil will last a good ways
i have a 7mgte block sitting in my garage for 2yrs now...no pistons, crank etc...
once every 3 months ill slab a light coat of oil on everything...no problems as far as rust
do you have a OHV valve spring tool and small asian hands? small hands are needed to put keepers back in cause its tight lol
jonahs_supra;1856738 said:
ahahah, I have needle nose pliers and such but not small asian hands lol. I have been watching videos on how to remove valves and such and it seems simple without using special tools, also I would love to learn how to do it. I am more worried about reinstalling it because if I have to get things adjusted if I remove them then I will let a pro do it; otherwise, I would like to do it and learn more about the motor. I have gotten this far without too much trouble, only real problem I had was the stripped head bolt but that could happen with anyone and I resolved it with my genius
Also as I said I have a friend who used to build Supra motors and he is more than willing to help me out, so if I don't need to get things adjusted then I'd like to get your info and advice about changing these seals so I can be absolutely sure of the process.
You should check out my rebuild page. The first page has links to my videos showing how to remove valves and seals and how to place new seals in. It's not too hard to do, just want to make sure it's not crooked.
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If you attemp the removal and reistallation of valves, be sure you wear eye protection.
There is a very real chance that a valve lock will pop out at you. Just ask my left eye. It knows.
There is a very real chance that a valve lock will pop out at you. Just ask my left eye. It knows.
Yea your videos are the ones I am talking about I just wish they more complete lol like show everything from start to finish it seems like the camera is running right before you do the work. So if I just follow your valve videos that is all I need to do? Also what lube did you use for the valve seals?Numba1Stuna;1856748 said:
Will do thanks for the tip.supraguy@aol;1856751 said:
Doat;1856753 said:
Lol, awesome. Yeah man, the retainer clips come off easy. Then out comes the valve, spring, and retainers. I took the old ones out with needle nose pliers, then used a socket to hold the new ones while I applied equal downward pressure until they seated. Just go back when you are done to make sure they are in the right position. For the lube, I used "Sta-Lube" engine assembly lube with moly graphite. It's a great lube IMO.
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Would I have to get new retainers or can I just change out the stem seals and be fine with that?Numba1Stuna;1856758 said:
Here is the link to the one showing how to install the new valve guide seals:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_Jm0-HQFvI&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Hope that helps ya.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_Jm0-HQFvI&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Hope that helps ya.
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Yea I saw that like 10 times lol, what do you do after that? put in the valve, spring and retainer in that order? Can I also use that lube for the cams?