Changing my head gasket, me asking for your help while doing this

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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Easyout will work but you have to grind it's tip most times so it will just go into the allen key hole then tap it in a little before turning, by design it will pull itself into the bolt.

That 7/16 should work, depending on hom mangled the bolt is you may need to file/grind a slight angle on the leading edge to make it easier to pound in.
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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No that's the things you first posted from Sears, the Spiral easyouts I posted usually go into a hole drilled into the broken bolt, you already have the hole (allen key socket) so just need a fat easyout, big bonus is normally you'd use say a 7mm>8mm easy out to do this job and they're not that strong, you can use one that's 10mm so less chance of breaking it off.
 

Doat

Active Member
Feb 6, 2012
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THE GODS HAVE SMILED UPON ME, I didn't get caught up in the nationwide back order for too long
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Doat

Active Member
Feb 6, 2012
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Okay I removed the cam gears, timing cover, and cam bearing caps but the cams won't come out, any ideas? The rear is free but the front is still in
 

Doat

Active Member
Feb 6, 2012
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Sorry I haven't been posting up pics but tonight I finally uploaded every single picture I took, here are some of the latest ones. I didn't take pictures when I removed the intake cam because my brother came home with our new adopted dog and I spent the rest of the evening getting him settled in and such
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He is a German Shepherd mix I think with a Golden Retriever. My brother named him Kaiser Norbert Wilhelm Friedrich Von Schumacher, aka schumie
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jonahs_supra

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May 17, 2011
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my pup is a german shepard/retriever mix...about 8 months old
mine has a black snout...very smart dog too lol

ok back on track

put that clamp back onto your turbo(holds exhaust housing to center cartridge) before your turbo is mis handled and possibly breaks a fin off 1 of the wheels

have you popped the cams out yet?
your getting really close to removing the head

i would remove your cps and water neck before removing head so they dont get damaged lugging that heavy chunk of aluminum around
 

Doat

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Feb 6, 2012
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Thank you for reminding me to put the turbo clamp back on I was meaning to do that. I took off the intake cam only so I can try to remove the fifth head bolt that is stripped that is my main concern at this point. If I can get it loose then I will remove the exhaust cam and take the head off. Where is the CPS and by water neck do you mean the housing where the thermostat goes?
 

Doat

Active Member
Feb 6, 2012
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Well the head bolt still won't come out, so I have to resort to drilling. Now when I do this I loosen bolts 1-4 in the sequence then drill it out right?
 

jonahs_supra

Active Member
May 17, 2011
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yes the water neck holds the tstat inside it...theres 3 nuts(or maybe 2 nuts and 1 bolt) that bolt it to the head
the cps(Cam Position Sensor) is right behind the water neck
see the black plastic cap with 3 screws? that hole assembly is the cps
its held it with 1(i believe 12mm bolt) remove bolt and slide cps out
inspect wiring for being brittle...very common issue is the wires get brittle/coating wears off/wire breaks and the car will run like crap or not start...happened to me
also look at harness side of the connector for cps

as far as loosening head bolts in sequence...i have never done that...
normally just put a impact on it and zipped them off...never had a car come back with a BHG(knock on wood)
 

Doat

Active Member
Feb 6, 2012
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I finally removed the stripped head bolt and the exhaust cam, I will be removing the head tomorrow as soon as my friend comes over. Any tips on how I can clean the head? I got some metal shavings and such around where the bolt was. I figured since that 7/16" hex bit was too big to fit in even though I was hammering it I thought I would use my dremel and grind off a little bit, so today I got a 12mm hex bit I found and practiced on that before going to work on the 7/16". After I saw that it would be able to go in the bolt I hammered it in until it was wedged then I hammered it in for a good 2 minutes as hard as I could and I saw that the hex bit with the extension was not moving around when I struck it, so I kept at it some more for awhile and voila.
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Doat

Active Member
Feb 6, 2012
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ahahah yea I figured that is where it blew but how does everything else look? Does it all look normal? My mechanic quoted me $450 to get the works done the head, resurfacing, valve job, stem clearance, and replace stem seals.
 

Doat

Active Member
Feb 6, 2012
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Houston, TX
More pics of the cylinders and valves close up
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Does everything seem okay according to you guys? Other than the practically brand new looking cylinder 6 piston lol